Installing Totalscan Transducer

[Novah]

I am upgrading the sonar in my 208 and my new system has the Lowrance Totalscan transducer. The "nut" on the graph side of the transducer cable is much larger than that of the transducer it is replacing. I have removed the old transducer cable and a few other cables left over from previously installed electronics. I have fed the new cable up to the helm through the appropriate rigging tube but am struggling to get the Totalscan cable through the rigging chase going from below the dash into the electronics box as some have called it.
Not knowing of any additional wires that can be removed from the tight area, I am thinking I will have to drill a new hole somewhere in the electronics box to get the transducer cable to the sonar head. Has anyone done this or come up with a way to use the factory rigging tube?

 

[seasick]

Some years ago, the connectors got a bit fatter ( I know the feeling).
I installed the HST, no total scan but issues were the same. I had to enlarge the hold in the transom and had to also enlarge the hole in the electronics box. Pulling the cable and connector is a bear and I have done it three times over the years! When I pulled the new cable I uses a drag line that I left in from the previous install and each time I do an install, I also pull a new drag line.
One trick that helps is no to tie the drag line to the connector but to loop the cable about a foot back from the connector, tie and tape off the drag line, the connector to the cable and pull. Pulling the connector backwards makes it a lot less likely that it will hang up. Of course at the helm, you have to remove the panel under the helm. There are 6 screws I think. You need that are open so that you can route the cable from the rigging tube up to the electronics box. Also remove the access plate in the cabin behind the helm area. Your knuckles will heal in about two weeks

 

[Halfhitch]

Seasicks' advice about pulling the bight of the cable through, instead of the connector, works well in a lot of instances and pulling a second "pull line" through with it is a good thing. Just be advised , if you haven't done this a lot then be aware there are times when things will get hung up and you must back it up. In that instance it is very helpful if that second line you are pulling through has been attached in such a way as to be able to act as your "reverse" should that become necessary.

 

[seasick]

Good point Halfhitch.

 

[Novah]

Finally got it. I will share some pictures of the access points. The tips given by others in this thread are all helpful and were used more or less. The entrance to the electrical box is not a chase and was my biggest challenge. It is actually what feels like two holes slightly offset. The picture with my hand in it shows how to access it. When trying to access it from under the dash, you can't do much more than get your finger tips in there. I suspect that is what Seasick was referring to with his comment regarding knuckles healing.
Helm to Stern - the chase is about 3 inches in diameter. It is white in my photo and has the steering cable and binnacle control cables plus wires going into it. It is almost directly below the berth access hole.
Berth Access Hole - this is how you access the chase going to the stern.
Access Panel Under the Dash - remove to access the new transducer cable when you take it out of the helm to stern chase and get it headed towards the electrical box.
Access to Electrical Box - this was gold to me. I couldn't work from under the dash. My parachute cord pulled the transducer cable up into the unknown. My hand couldn't do much more than move wires with my finger tips. I saw the small panel in the berth and when I removed it, I was able to follow the wires, and my orange parachute cord up to the twin holes I speak of above. I still couldn't see what I was doing but my fingers relayed angles and moved wires until the transducer cable end was able squeeze through.
So, thanks to all for the responses and I hope my pictures are helpful to someone else do this job.

 

[Sdfish]

I have also used dish soap to lube up any wires I need to pull thru.

 

[seasick]

Good pictures. It brings back memories (painful ones)
What is that hanging red wire with black tape doing???

 

[Parthery]

I rigged electronics on a couple of 208s....they were brutal. Then add to the fact that one was a '99 with the smaller electronics door and it made it even worse. As I recall, I had to pull the gauge panel above it just to get my hands in there.

Now a 226/228 with the flip down access? Easy peasy....

 

[Ky Grady]

Yep, no issues rigging my 228 with the Total Scan, lots of room.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I have so much crap coming up into my electronics box that I needed to use a Dremel to enlarge the hole when I installed a Furuno autopilot along with a Simrad Evo 3 and totalscan transducer. It really wasn't hard to do. Everything is protected from the elements, so you can make the hole as large as you please.

 

[Novah]

Good pictures. It brings back memories (painful ones)
What is that hanging red wire with black tape doing???

No Idea - There is also a black or dark blue wire hanging to the right just outside of the picture. ; So far, I have pulled half a dozen wires out, a transducer with cable from the graph that was in the boat when I bought it last year and a transducer from an older system that had its wires terminated in the general area of the batteries. There was also an Appelco domed antenna on the port side that I removed.
I am not done under the dash. I have read about corrosion on the Grady wiring but mine is pretty clean despite the mess. I have a Blue Sea fuse panel left over from a previous project that I plan to mount under the dash when I go through the rest of the wires. I have stainless steel staples to replace the rusted ones that put the rust stains on the bulkhead. Rust should come off with a paste made with Bar Keepers Friend - it worked wonders on the swim platform and tow or tie down hooks on the stern.

 

[Novah]

Yep, no issues rigging my 228 with the Total Scan, lots of room.

I mounted the Total Scan transducer and now I have a concern that someone is going to walk into it. On my bass boat, the Total Scan is below your knees and tucked under a bit. Did you put anything on to protect it?
I have three screw holes adjacent to the Total Scan from the old transducer I removed. I am toying with the idea of mounting something that sticks out about the same distance as the Total Scan to prevent breaking the Total Scan off. It would suck to have to go through running a replacement transducer cable.

 

[Ky Grady]

I mounted the Total Scan transducer and now I have a concern that someone is going to walk into it. On my bass boat, the Total Scan is below your knees and tucked under a bit. Did you put anything on to protect it?
I have three screw holes adjacent to the Total Scan from the old transducer I removed. I am toying with the idea of mounting something that sticks out about the same distance as the Total Scan to prevent breaking the Total Scan off. It would suck to have to go through running a replacement transducer cable.

Nothing around mine, but pretty hard to get to in order to hit it. Swim platform, bracket and motor protecting it.

 

[Blaugrana]

Nothing around mine, but pretty hard to get to in order to hit it. Swim platform, bracket and motor protecting it.

View attachment 13524

How does the transducer work there? Do you notice any interference when tilting engine and engaging the trim tabs?

I plan to put a new GPS snd Fishfinder but nervous I’m going to keep having the same issue as now. I boat blind sometimes until I stop as both current Fishfinder and separate depth finder get nothing. I only have the small swim platform on the starboard side so flow is probably different

 

[Ky Grady]

No interference. Haven't lost bottom at speed. Make sure you don't mount it behind a water pickup, you will get interference from the turbulence of the pickup disrupting water flow around the transducer.