Is Grady Construction worse than they tell us?

[gregsnow]

Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS

Gregsnow, I have a 222 also and noticed the rear deck access panel on my boat was not caulked either. I noticed I was getting water in the bilge when it rained or when I washed it down, so I caulked mine with GE almond bath caulk. That solved the water problem and if I need to remove the panel, I just cut through the silicone with a razor and it lifts right out.

I was wondering why Grady didn't caulk this panel either. Maybe because that is the access panel to get to the livewell pump and washdown pump, but there is still a port to access the valve handles. I replaced my livewell pump and it was easy to cut the silicone, remove the panel then reapply the silicone after. My bilge hasn't had the water accumulation since.

Alright Jaydub, I will caulk it as well. Glad the dealer told me. :roll:
Guess a years worth of water wont hurt too bad. (i hope) What do you mainly use your 222 for? I love mine so far. Keep in touch since we have same boat and issues.

GS

 

[CaptKennyW]

dont let those guys on THT scare you they just hate GWs. They make a big deal out of it because of GWs are supposed to be one of the best built boats out there and cost more than most other boats do.

 

[Grog]

THT has turned into a cyber rag where everybody says how great their things are and everything else is junk. There are a few people who actually know something but most are useless.

 

[gregsnow]

dont let those guys on THT scare you they just hate GWs. They make a big deal out of it because of GWs are supposed to be one of the best built boats out there and cost more than most other boats do.

You're right on that. I can tell alot of whats on there is purely one-sided ignorant opinions. I did learn more about caulking areas on the boat that the dealer didnt cover due to that Grady post there. I feel good with my purchase 100% and have a killer warranty to go with it. And Oh Yeah, the best resale value to be heard of! :wink:


GS

 

[CJBROWN]

THT has turned into a cyber rag where everybody says how great their things are and everything else is junk. There are a few people who actually know something but most are useless.

It's really awful isn't it? It is no longer a reliable information source. If I ever have to read another "my bayliner is just as good as your [insert premium brand]" thread again for the rest of my life it will be too soon.

 

[Kenlahr]

For some of the reasons above I quit posting on THT. They also gave me a hard time when they discovered I was advertising on another web site!! Go figure; like they have a say in where and when another business advertises!

Per the topic of water intrusion to the bilge; watch your stern cup holders, they DO drain into the bilge. I was finding a small amount of water down there once an a while and after months of looking and watching, I traced it to the cup holders. It was not much, but not knowing where it was coming from was bugging me.

Ken

 

[PA228G]

Aft Bilge

Slightly OT but thought I'd mention what I found when I pulled the livewell in my 228G last weekend to replace the failed diverter valve. I noticed that the threaded connection on the extender rod used to operate the thru-hull was BADLY corroded to the point that I believe if I would have had to close the valve it would have snapped at the valve handle. Dealer suggested I visit a plumbing supply store for a replacement since he didn't stock the part. Haven't done that yet.

Just a heads up.

All in all I personally think Grady's are very well designed and pretty well built. My $0.02

 

[megabytes]

In addition to cupholders, water may enter the bilge through the cutouts in the aft sides for longer rods, gaffs and also through the anchor locker if the windlass is not properly caulked.

 

[gregsnow]

I'm gonna be a caulking fool this weekend. Hardest part is gonna be keeping my wife from seeing me caulking up our new boat. She wont understand, trust me. :roll: I'll send her out on our paddle boat for a few hours.
Grady dealership overnighted me a free tube of GW caulk. They're very professional.

GS

 

[Frank]

My cupholders drain into the bilge also. I pulled them out (they came loose over time) and put tubing from the bottom of the cupholder to a hold I drilled in the fiberglass bulkhead so they now drain onto the deck. If you do this, make sure your drain hole is as near to the deck as possible as the draining water will create dirty streaks.

I suggested to Grady back in 2002 that they should build the boats with a drain onto the deck.

 

[capt chris]

Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS

I was told by Cannon's Marina, GW dealer in Longboat Key FL, this weekend at the Sun Coast Boat show that the section you're referring to comes from the factory unsealed in case the owners wants to mount a shoot thru transducer. After the installation the selling dealer is supposed to seal that part of the deck just like the rest of the deck. He was showing me a Tournament 225 at the time but I would think it would be the same for a Fisherman 222. He also told me that some water will drip down into the bilge from the anchor locker up front from time to time. I looked down into the locker and sure enough there is a little hole at the bottom where water off the rode could run down into the bilge.

 

[White Horses (Mike)]

We are picking up our 225 next weekend. I went yesterday to go over the last of the electronics mounting decisions. The aft deck panel was definitely not sealed, as we removed it to check out the job they did with my through-hull transducer. I was told it would be reinstalled and caulked before delivery next week. My experience with our dealer would confirm Capt. Chris' observations.

BTW - We placed our new Garmin 4210 in the electronics box, and it WILL fit, but an 8" screen probably would have been enough and wouldn't be quite so jammed in. We are going to cut into the mounting bracket to lower the unit about a half inch to make it more visible.

Also - the previous observations about THT are right on...

 

[gregsnow]

Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS

I was told by Cannon's Marina, GW dealer in Longboat Key FL, this weekend at the Sun Coast Boat show that the section you're referring to comes from the factory unsealed in case the owners wants to mount a shoot thru transducer. After the installation the selling dealer is supposed to seal that part of the deck just like the rest of the deck. He was showing me a Tournament 225 at the time but I would think it would be the same for a Fisherman 222. He also told me that some water will drip down into the bilge from the anchor locker up front from time to time. I looked down into the locker and sure enough there is a little hole at the bottom where water off the rode could run down into the bilge.

Thks for the info on this. I did contact my dealer last week and explained the uncaulked area you're talking about. I spoke with the service manager and he seemed somewhat puzzled that they didnt caulk the boat before they sold it to me. He then said he was overnighting me some Grady caulk and guess what (yep it never showed up) :roll: .
I was thinking about calling to remind them again because I noticed water in my bilge all weekend whick kept me sponging alot. Oh well, I still love my GW and the ride is superior to my last two boats and most others I've boated. Thks Capt.

 

[Officemn]

Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS

Gregsnow, I have a 222 also and noticed the rear deck access panel on my boat was not caulked either. I noticed I was getting water in the bilge when it rained or when I washed it down, so I caulked mine with GE almond bath caulk. That solved the water problem and if I need to remove the panel, I just cut through the silicone with a razor and it lifts right out.

I was wondering why Grady didn't caulk this panel either. Maybe because that is the access panel to get to the livewell pump and washdown pump, but there is still a port to access the valve handles. I replaced my livewell pump and it was easy to cut the silicone, remove the panel then reapply the silicone after. My bilge hasn't had the water accumulation since.

Alright Jaydub, I will caulk it as well. Glad the dealer told me. :roll:
Guess a years worth of water wont hurt too bad. (i hope) What do you mainly use your 222 for? I love mine so far. Keep in touch since we have same boat and issues.

GS

I recently purchased a new Grady 257. The rear hatch is not caulked immediately by dealer unless they are installing the electronics. In my case I installed the electronics and when I took it in for the 20hr check they caulked that rear hatch (at no charge).

 

[gregsnow]

My dealer just sent me a tube of GE caulk and at the dealers cost with no hassel.


GS

 

[tibeachguy]

I bought my '96 Escape last summer. No caulk in the rear hatch. As far as I can tell it has never been sealed. Makes me worry. Anyway, after this thread, I have bought some 4200. I plan on taking the hatch off, inspecting everything, cleaning it out, drying it out and sealing it this weekend. I was told the boat was kept in dry storage so maybe it doesn't have too much damage. However, I have seen the bilge pump, pump a bunch of water after a big rain.

There is the remains of a warning label on the hatch but it is unreadible after all these years. I do have a copy of the manual. I should have checked to see what the label said. Lesson learned! Wished I had known it before I bought the boat. I still might have bought it but I sure would have removed the hatch and inspected inside the hull. I can tell just by looking through the accesses that it is all mildewed inside. Hope Grady glassed it well enough to have prevented any wood damage!

Thanks to everyone for your input on this topic. I have already learned so much on this site. It is truley an asset to the inexperienced boat owner.

 

[ocnslr]

Anyway, after this thread, I have bought some 4200.

I think 4200 is a bit of overkill for that application. The GE Silicon II in almond is a good match.

I just had the midship hatch up last weekend, and will be doing the main hatch - for the first time - this weekend.

Brian

 

[BobP]

Guys who haven't done silicone-ing before, don't get crazy, just the seam and screw holes. If you bed it, you'll never get it out.

GE Silicone II window @ door(?), like $5. a cartridge at the depot, color of choice. I prefer clear myself so I can use it anywhere. It sets up fast, so do your dressing and clean up promptly. I use a plastic spoon to dress the line.

If the screws drives into wood, I use Boatlife Lifeseal. If just into glass, GE Silicone II.

 

[Vtdochop]

Want to mount some 24'' Berts' tracks to the gunnels of my 225..Should I run some Silicone into the mounting holes ...which product ?
Peter