Islander 270 Windlass Upgrade

[ocnslr]

Shortly after we purchased our Islander 270 in 2002, I installed a Horizon 500 windlass on the pulpit. I used the factory installed wiring from the helm to the bow, but added separate wiring (#6 AWG) from the batteries to the helm area. Had a 50-amp breaker back aft for overall circuit protection, and then the Lewmar-provided 25-amp breaker and windlass control toggle switch at the helm. That windlass wiring was direct, with no contactor. It looked like this:

Well, the windlass has been getting tired for a while, and finally became useless on a fishing trip in October. We decided to upgrade to a Lewmar ProFish 700FF and I started doing research. I found out everything I needed to know, and decided I wanted to mount it further aft as Renovator posted in Sep 2008. His looked like this on a Sailfish:

Many threads discuss the need for access to the locker to clear "hockles" in the rode, etc. Some use the small access from the V-berth, but we don't have a mid-berth for all our junk so it is usually filling the V-berth. I looked at one video here starting at the 9:10 http://youtu.be/K79s6BJfT30, but I didn't want to cut the locker cover like that, so looked for an alternative solution and you will see it in the photos below.

For the run on the Islander, we are just at the maximum run for #6AWG, but I didn't want to rerun #4 unless needed. I rerouted some of the existing cabling to make it as direct as possible, cutting several feet off of the factory-installed wiring from the helm to the bow. I removed the 50-amp breaker aft and installed a 120-amp for circuit protection (within the required two feet from the battery). I removed the original 25-amp windlass breaker and installed the Lewmar-provided 50-amp breaker. I also removed the original windlass toggle switch and installed the new rocker switch for the contactor circuit. Both the breaker and the rocker switch were installed in the same locations as the units they replaced. I installed the contactor inside the wiring area at the helm. In addition to control from the helm, I also wanted remote operation, but not at the cost of the wireless remote. For half the price I purchased the Lewmar handheld remote, and installed the waterproof connection plug just to the left of the windlass. The handheld has a coiled six-foot cable, and allows free movement around the bow while controlling the windlass. With the windlass now over the larger section of the anchor locker, I have no problem with 400-feet of rode and 30-feet of chain falling nicely into place. The rode is 600-feet long, so the last 200-feet is led down into the center forward storage area under the V-berth. Easy enough to use it if needed. The access port to the right of the windlass allows excellent access to the entire area under the windlass, so it would be easy to clear any jams.

Here are the photos of the installation, once I completed it yesterday.

The two bolt heads below the breaker and above the AC outlet show where the contactor is mounted on the opposite side.

A lot of work but I have always done all the mechanical, electrical and electronic work on the boat. Mostly because I can't afford to pay someone else, but I also like my own work better.

Happy to answer any questions about this installation.

Brian

 

[BobP]

Brian, nice work !

 

[ocnslr]

Brian, nice work !

Thank you, sir. Means a lot coming from you.

With all those views and no comments I thought I'd scre*ed up something.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Really nice and neat job. I installed a windlass on all my boats, even the skiff i had and i did all the work my self like you did and loved it. By bringing back the windlass you could add maybe another 100 feet of rope.

 

[ROBERTH]

Brian, just bumped into this thread. Looks good and love the access plate idea! Much better than cutting the hatch!

Couple of questions.....

Did you use any type of backing plate for the hatch under the windlass?
How did you screw down the hatch? Are those through bolted with nylon locknuts or screws?
Also, what type of rode are you using? 3 strand or 8 plait? I think you might have already said in other threads you have 8 plait? Did you get many hockles?

This is another alternative to mounting the windlass before I take the plunge. I think so far for me, the drop of line on my model Grady will be ok if mounting on the aft most location on the pulpit, but will recheck to make sure before I do the cutting and installation.

Also, I think you had mentioned to me in other threads on the windlass discussions, about putting more rode in the mid compartment, which I think I can do with a slight modification in the holding area so the rode can slide underneath the anchor locker directly into the mid locker, then would have a huge space for extra rode. Gotta double check that though.

 

[ocnslr]

Brian, just bumped into this thread. Looks good and love the access plate idea! Much better than cutting the hatch!
Couple of questions.....
Did you use any type of backing plate for the hatch under the windlass?
How did you screw down the hatch? Are those through bolted with nylon locknuts or screws?
Also, what type of rode are you using? 3 strand or 8 plait? I think you might have already said in other threads you have 8 plait? Did you get many hockles?
This is another alternative to mounting the windlass before I take the plunge. I think so far for me, the drop of line on my model Grady will be ok if mounting on the aft most location on the pulpit, but will recheck to make sure before I do the cutting and installation.
Also, I think you had mentioned to me in other threads on the windlass discussions, about putting more rode in the mid compartment, which I think I can do with a slight modification in the holding area so the rode can slide underneath the anchor locker directly into the mid locker, then would have a huge space for extra rode. Gotta double check that though.

Thank you for the nice comments. On to your questions.

1) I removed the hatch, cut a piece of 1/2" marine plywood, and epoxy glued it to the underside of the hatch. Once that was set, I epoxied the entire underside of the plywood, and used six layers of fiberglass cloth in the center section of the hatch, an area a bit larger than the piece of 1/2" starboard that is directly under the windlass.

2) The windlass is through bolted with the three studs that come with the windlass installation kit.

3) The hatch was pretty secure with just the two strap hinges - I was able to open the hatch with the windlass on it before running the rode back through - and tested the windlass just on the hinges before I secured it all and sealed it.

4) The hatch is screwed down with the eight (8) screws that are showing. They are 2.5" long and go through the upper ridge on the opening below the hatch. I think it would have been possible to through-bolt some of them, but I don't think it necessary. The silicon sealant will also provide some additional structural support.

5) I have a 600-ft rode of 1/2" 8-plait, with 30-ft of 1/4" chain, purchased from SecoSouth. I have 400-ft in the anchor locker, with 200-ft down in the mid-storage. There is a direct opening between the anchor locker and that storage, as that is the normal drainage path. It will be a rare occasion when I need the extra rode, but it will come up pretty easily. Just have to recover it back to that storage area.

6) With the old windlass we had some hockle problems, although those decreased when I added the swivel between the chain and the anchor. They usually occur just below the windlass, when lowering the anchor. I think it will happen less when free-falling the anchor with this windlass, as the rode isn't "working" in the gypsy.

Hope I have answered your questions.

Brian

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks, everything makes sense. I will use your ideas in my fitup for sure. Thanks for sharing the details!

 

[BobP]

Robert H, if you don't have a HW heater in the middle compartment of the V berth, I bet you can climb in there and close the top! It is huge and it is also open from the front end to the two side compartments. Check for yourself, I have carnal knowledge with same boat !

The pass thru is along the keel line, same place water passes to get into the bilge and eventually out the stern bilge pump.

However, extra rode is not going to fall in there and may not play out but will by hand.

Brian's design even includes the 1/4 in. starboard covering the middle width full length of the pulpit since the chain is going to tend to bounce or wip off pulpit while the windlass operates. Some raise the windlass even with the pulpit but this works better IMHO providing less torquing on the mount staying down lower where he has it, and less obtrusive.

The other thing, as far as I'm concerned, these days can't find anybody to do this level of work even with detailed drawings and a blank check, but worse than that they take the job and say they will but never do.

Tie off the windlass at anchor to save the rode, it takes a beating at the hands (teeth!) of the gypsy. The extra cleat is right where it should be to do it phot shows it perfect. If the anchor ever gets stuck, walk line to stern where it's safer to manage and one turn on a cleat if you want to try to motor out in safe sea conditions.
Since the windlass is supposed to be only lifting an anchor not pulling the boat, unlike the ones on front ends of trucks, Brian's windlass is staying where it it. The entire foredeck is backed up by 1/2 inch coring OEM by Grady, as well.

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks for the details BobP! You are right, the Vberth forward compartment is huge! I noticed the rope slightly slides under into this area sometimes. I found there is a glassed in piece of plywood hanging down about 1-2 inches that if cut off, would allow one heck of a lot of rope to slide into this compartment, so would be no issue for 1000 ft! :<><

I need to pull out my current rode and measure length. It is below the access panel now, so there is a lot of room already above it. I am thinking I have approx. 300' of 3/8 3 strand, so if I do have 300', then bet that 600' of 8 plait will fit in there as is without any issue.

I was just in the locker today, pulled anchor out doing some measurements for backing plate I will order. I will need a piece of aluminum that is 16" X 20" and will get 1/2" most likely. Might be overkill, but will fit in there with no issue.

Fun part is going to be removal of the pulpit to do some glass and gelcoat repairs in regards to I am going to be able to reach way up in there to get to those small screws, but will just have to tough it out with extra long extensions I guess. Re-installation will be the hard part getting the nuts started that far away and at angle. Thinking of retrying to remove the forward bulkhead to allow me to get up in there, but not sure if I will gain anything as I could not budge it before.

 

['84Offshore]

Very nice job on the install.....

One word of caution though.
I have the same Windlass and in the manual it say the gypsy needs to be removed yearly, cleaned and re-lubed.
I did not do this the 1st few years and it failed....I never noticed the warning.
They did replace it under warranty however.......

Now I do the yearly maintanance and it seems fine...

Just my $0.02.......

 

[BobP]

Wait until you read this, you go into the cabin and remove the partition wall you see above the VBerth- the one with the little door in it, easy it comes out, and you can slide in there face up all the way. Easy access however raise up the top of the V berth under your back with cushions to be even with the lip of the permanent glass as it rises off the V berth. Mind you not much face room above you, but it works, back will ache next day.

4 Thru Bolts hold the pulpit down and those little screws on the edge more for show.
The forward two are the reason at the end of the day I see bruises on my forerams and perhaps some blood, ripped shirt, don't feel anything when it happens anymore, but they are a reach from the top side via anchor locker door and I'm tall even holding a long box end.

Windlass I believe has three thru bolts and one larger hole for the rode and one for the electric feed.

If you use the windlass a lot in similar depth water shallower than the deeper, rode in this range takes a beating and frays, so being able to trim off some length and make up the new connection at the chain is nice to have just order more. Leaving the rode holding the boat at the windlass frays a lot more right there.

Why did you say you want to remove the pulpit ?

 

[BobP]

By the way, the foredeck is crowned so be aware with larger flat backing plates. The bottom of the pulpit is not flat for that reason, found out after I replicated a new pulpit out of glass instead of what grady used in a vacuum filled mold. All complex shapes = lots of time but some things are fun as along as time permits. Outer skin 1/4 in minimum, 3/8 forward edge, solid glass. 1708 supplier likes me. Moved handraill bases furher forward like new Sails, and base bolts all thru bolted and glass cored, all holes, no coring contact possible.

Since I use the windlass little - removed it. Will show up in for sale section.

 

[ROBERTH]

Hey BobP, I need to remove the pulpit since former owner must have dropped the anchore multiple times and severely damaged the gel coat taking chunks out, so need to get it off to repair and re-gelcoat.

FYI, a while back, I tried to remove the forward bulk head with no success.

Had to remove the upholstered rails in cabin since the bulkhead is recessed behind and will need to swing out from bottom. That was not easy as screws were hidden in the seams and most of the screws stripped so had to put in new ones.
Then, removed the 4 bolts from the bulkhead and pulled and yanked, but could not budge it.

I stuck my head in the access hole yesterday and probed around. I don't see any reason whatsoever that this thing should be stuck in there. I will definately try it again. Might need to stick arm in access hole with mallet and bang on it some to see if it will "Unstick" for me. Getting in there would really be nice like you mentioned!

Of course, I do expect to bleed on this as well! :mrgreen:

 

[ROBERTH]

Hey BobP, you got me rethinking the backing plate. I wonder if I should just use a piece of resin coated plywood, like maybe 1/2 or if that would not be strong enough. Just thinking the ply will form to uneven surface better than let's say a 1/2 piece of aluminum plate.

Not sure how thick the deck is, but figure I need some sort of backing plate for stress. Maybe could also mix up a batch of plastic filler and squish it up in place and let it fill in the gap and therefore make a solid connection? Dunno, but thinking over this again.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

If available, starboard is a better backing material than plywood, you could go up to 3/4" thick and should curve the contour of the bow deck.

 

[ROBERTH]

One question in regards to securing the chain/anchor from self deployment....which is better? An Ancor tensioner or the channel lock with pin like shown on ocsnlr's setup? Seems the tensioner will pull tight and maybe keep chain from slapping around? Or can you twist the chain to fit tight in the channel lock with pin?

Also notice seems like you can install the channel lock with pin directly in line with the chain/rode whereas I recall seeing some pics with the tensioner mounted off to the side slightly out of the direct path of the chain/rode?

Windlass on the way and pulpit faired up with a little sanding left and then ready for gelcoat. Just waiting on windlass to see how to mount and where the hole will be so I can decide whether to plug up existing hole or if can use existing hole and enlarge. Don't want to gel coat then have any holes that need to be plugged up before I know how it will mount.

 

[ocnslr]

One question in regards to securing the chain/anchor from self deployment....which is better? An Ancor tensioner or the channel lock with pin like shown on ocsnlr's setup? Seems the tensioner will pull tight and maybe keep chain from slapping around? Or can you twist the chain to fit tight in the channel lock with pin?

Can't tell you which is better. You can not do much with the chain to make it fit tight in the locking device that I use. I got the anchor well seated, put the lock pin through a link, then marked for the two mounting holes for the locking device. The chain isn't as tight as a tensioner would make it, but you can't twist it tighter and still get the pin in place. It really doesn't "slap around" and having it in line with the chain is no problem at all. Just put the pin back in place after freeing the chain, so nothing to catch on.

Brian

 

[Mr. Wilson]

Shortly after we purchased our Islander 270 in 2002, I installed a Horizon 500 windlass on the pulpit. I used the factory installed wiring from the helm to the bow, but added separate wiring (#6 AWG) from the batteries to the helm area. Had a 50-amp breaker back aft for overall circuit protection, and then the Lewmar-provided 25-amp breaker and windlass control toggle switch at the helm. That windlass wiring was direct, with no contactor. It looked like this:

Well, the windlass has been getting tired for a while, and finally became useless on a fishing trip in October. We decided to upgrade to a Lewmar ProFish 700FF and I started doing research. I found out everything I needed to know, and decided I wanted to mount it further aft as Renovator posted in Sep 2008. His looked like this on a Sailfish:

Many threads discuss the need for access to the locker to clear "hockles" in the rode, etc. Some use the small access from the V-berth, but we don't have a mid-berth for all our junk so it is usually filling the V-berth. I looked at one video here starting at the 9:10

, but I didn't want to cut the locker cover like that, so looked for an alternative solution and you will see it in the photos below.

For the run on the Islander, we are just at the maximum run for #6AWG, but I didn't want to rerun #4 unless needed. I rerouted some of the existing cabling to make it as direct as possible, cutting several feet off of the factory-installed wiring from the helm to the bow. I removed the 50-amp breaker aft and installed a 120-amp for circuit protection (within the required two feet from the battery). I removed the original 25-amp windlass breaker and installed the Lewmar-provided 50-amp breaker. I also removed the original windlass toggle switch and installed the new rocker switch for the contactor circuit. Both the breaker and the rocker switch were installed in the same locations as the units they replaced. I installed the contactor inside the wiring area at the helm. In addition to control from the helm, I also wanted remote operation, but not at the cost of the wireless remote. For half the price I purchased the Lewmar handheld remote, and installed the waterproof connection plug just to the left of the windlass. The handheld has a coiled six-foot cable, and allows free movement around the bow while controlling the windlass. With the windlass now over the larger section of the anchor locker, I have no problem with 400-feet of rode and 30-feet of chain falling nicely into place. The rode is 600-feet long, so the last 200-feet is led down into the center forward storage area under the V-berth. Easy enough to use it if needed. The access port to the right of the windlass allows excellent access to the entire area under the windlass, so it would be easy to clear any jams.

Here are the photos of the installation, once I completed it yesterday.

The two bolt heads below the breaker and above the AC outlet show where the contactor is mounted on the opposite side.

A lot of work but I have always done all the mechanical, electrical and electronic work on the boat. Mostly because I can't afford to pay someone else, but I also like my own work better.

Happy to answer any questions about this installation.

Brian

What are the pros and cons of the two different mounting positions? Just about to install mine and i'm trying to determine the best mounting spot.

Thanks!

 

[Cadeco]

Great job. I have the 1998 Islander and I'm looking to have one installed just deciding if horizontal or vertical. ( I know the thread is old but i could not resist)!!!

 

[Hookup1]

I installed a Lewmar ProFish 700 on my 268 Islander. It's installed on top of the anchor rode locker. It works well but you have to be careful not to snug the chain up too tight. I hit the switch the wrong way and busted the hatch up! But besides that warning it works just fine.

Other will tell you not to mount it there but there really isn't anyplace else to put it.

Also replaced my roller with a Five Ocean's pivioting roller for automatic anchor launch.