Just picked up a 2002 330 Express

[Flot]

Just picked up a 2002 330 express.. All the major systems were good but our 17 hour shakedown cruise home revealed a handful of issues. Most comical was freshwater raining down from the ceiling in the cabin, finally discovered the windshield washer hose this afternoon.

All the major systems seem okay except one... seems that none of the waste system (vacuum) seems to be working right. Does anyone happen to know the model #s of all the various pumps? Are there any hidden fuses I should know about? And just to make sure I understand, waste is emptied from the head entirely by vaccum, right? The only macerator in the system is the pump out? Or is there an inbound macerator as well?

I took out most of the panels in the aft cabin, discovered all the holding tank stuff on starboard... and holy cow there is a ton of empty space in there on the port side.

 

[wspitler]

On my 2007 the holding and vacuum tanks are on the starboard side behind a panel in the aft cabin. Mine is a vacuflush system with duck bill valves (4) and the two pumps (pump out and vaccum) mounted atop the holding tank. The pump motors are DC and are controlled by the box mounted with them. Vaccum is activated by sensors on the vacuum tank when you flush, level sensors are mounted on the tank and there is an indicator in the head. There is no macerator associated with my system (2007). Parts are readily available. The pumps are both diaphram and you should be able to hear them running. It may be that they have removed the tank and pumps as there is little to no space behind that panel on my boat.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Most comical was freshwater raining down from the ceiling in the cabin, finally discovered the windshield washer hose this afternoon.

HAHAHAHA....whats this knob for? Been there... hose wasn't connected

 

[Flot]

On my 2007 the holding and vacuum tanks are on the starboard side behind a panel in the aft cabin. Mine is a vacuflush system with duck bill valves (4) and the two pumps (pump out and vaccum) mounted atop the holding tank. The pump motors are DC and are controlled by the box mounted with them. Vaccum is activated by sensors on the vacuum tank when you flush, level sensors are mounted on the tank and there is an indicator in the head. There is no macerator associated with my system (2007). Parts are readily available. The pumps are both diaphram and you should be able to hear them running.

Apologies, I misspoke. Yes, I've got the whole holding tank debacle on the starboard side, my port side is largely empty save 3 water pumps.

I'm definitely capable of fixing this, but haven't dealt with a holding tank system before or diaphragm pumps for that matter. I believe the holding tank itself is empty - I can shine a flashlight through the side and sounds hollow enough - despite the level reader showing full.

My understanding - once I flip the head breaker, the vac pump should start pulling a vacuum down on the tank, right? Nothing happening there. Is there a sensor I should be looking at? Verified the breaker/switch has power.

And same with my keyswitch for the pumpout, I turn the key and nothing happens, but also no lights dimming or whatnot. The two pumps looked similar but not identical, manufacturer was sealand but I couldn't find a part number on the side I could see.

 

[glacierbaze]

Sounds like there is a switch/fuse, or some connection that you are not seeing between the breaker and the system. Unlikely that all your components would be bad. You have power to the breaker, but do you have power at the pumps? You could check the pumps by turning the breaker off, and using a 12v power source, like a UPS battery and some test leads, to make sure the pumps run.

 

[wspitler]

There are three DC switches/CBs associated with the head. Fresh water, Head, and head pump out. The two head switches provide power to the head control box which processes the various sensors and turns the pumps on and off. The pump out occurs through a seacock located in the bilge access in the aft cabin. The vaccum pump is activated by a vacuum sensor in the vacuum tank and runs when the flush lever releases vacuum to the bowl for flushing. The pump out is controlled by the key and turns off when the sensor shows empty. Those level sensors can get dirty and indicated full when empty. I'd flush the tank well with sensor cleaner/soap. Check the connections between the pumps and the control box (deutsch connectors). Good Luck!

 

[Bayhouse]

I have a 2003 330 so there's a good chance our head systems are the same. I have manuals for the system, shoot me a PM with an email address and I'll send them to you.

The "level reader reading full" - are you referring to the Tankwatch Panel behind the head with 4 lights?

With the CB on, what happens when you flush - this should cause the pump to start to pull vacuum.

There is no in-bound macerator on my system.

 

[Toothpick 10]

OP, How about you show us some photos of your recent purchase.

 

[Flot]

Thanks guys, between weather and work I've only had a couple days to spend on the boat but I'm making progress. I finally found some original manuals and sure enough something said 'the optional relay will prevent your vaccum pump from running when the discharge tank is full." A buddy with a similar vacuflush system didn't have this relay so we didn't expect it.

Well a lightbulb went off above my head as I had heard a loud click from the head compartment every time I energized the system. Removed the tankwatch "brain" from the wall, disconnected the full sender so that it didn't think the tank was full, and voila it pulled a vacuum.

Now the embarrassing part - after about 4 flushes the noise the vacuum pump was making got decidedly more "squishy" - I have a bad feeling the tank may actually be filled (with water, it is clear) as it sits. Hopefully will have time to head to the local pump out this weekend and see what I discover, as my discharge pump is not doing anything. And yes, after more reading, I'm a bit confused that there is no macerator pump in the whole mix, the discharge pump is also some sort of bellows design.

In the meantime I got my bow thruster working (needed a new fuse and contactor to the tune of $175) and ripped out all the existing electronics. Previous installers did a heck of a butcher job on the pan under the electronics and some similarly awful wiring jobs. After years of owning center consoles I find myself astounded at the accessibility under the deck - however I'm frustrated that there aren't better places for expansion to mount 12v fuse blocks etc. Frankly a lot of what was done before seemed unsafe - they've got fuse blocks mounted under the helm that take 15 mins to access with a screwdriver. I'll prob rewire the 12v accessory bus and make a lot of that more accessible.

I'm also a little worried about the electric dash up/down actuator failing, am I missing something or if that goes bad you have to remove the AC/DC panel in the cabin to access everything?

Last but not least: I spent 45 mins crawling around a new 2020 330 express at the miami boat show. I was absolutely shocked at how similar it was to my 2002. Certainly lots of minor updates but not the dramatic changes I expected. And yes there were a couple 12v blue sea fuse blocks randomly stuck here and there, which was also a surprise on a -- $480,000 -- boat.

 

[wspitler]

It is not a big deal to remove the AC/DC panel and it allows easy access to the actuator and, in my case, the autopilot computer, autopilot pump, sonar module, etc. Just make sure to not have AC power connected when removing the panel. Lots of room in there for bus bars and wiring to the helm.