Kicker motors

[Gradylover]

Hello,

I'm looking to buy a Seafarer 228 and considering a kicker motor. I have a couple questions I'm hoping you guys can help me with. With a kicker motor mounted off the transom, how well does steering with the main engine work? It would seem that trying to steering the boat with the tiller handle on the kicker would be quite inconvenient. I've read if I were to get too small of a kicker, I would have to run the kicker at a higher RPM trolling and therefore the engine would be louder. Any thoughts on this? I assume most guys have their kicker feeding off the main gas tank on the boat. Is my assumption correct and how difficult is it?

Thanks for any help.

 

[HMBJack]

Years ago, I had a Yamaha long shaft T8 Kicker for my 228 and it was a perfect engine for that in my opinion. You need thrust and the T8 delivers it. More HP is simply more weight back there. My T8 had electric start and electric trim which was nice. I had it mounted on the starboard stern to offset the battery weight (port side).

Yes, you are correct, you feed the kicker off the main tank but you must install a tee valve in the kicker line. This is to ensure the main engine does not pull fuel (and air) from the kicker fuel line. So, you just need to remember to open the tee valve before you run the kicker and close it after you turn it off. Easy.

As to steering, yes, you can steer the boat with the main engine used as a rudder. It works pretty good but not so much if it's really windy. I ended up using one of those bars you attach to your main engine and it worked pretty good. I'd recommend it for sure. See photo below).

Lastly, I used a heavy duty fixed mount for the kicker (not a Garelick or similar unit). I would recommend a fixed mount since it is stronger than anything that "moves". I hope this helps and good luck with your own set-up.

 

[trapper]

I agree with HMB, great little kicker on my 208. If you tap into the second fuel outlet on your primary fuel filter ( Racor) you do not need a tee valve. I mounted a remote tilt switch on the stern just above the splash well. Eliminates going to the controls at the helm every time to raise and lower the T8, As in launching and retrieving at ramp. Enjoy and Good Luck on your purchase. Cheers, trapper

 

[CatTwentyTwo]

HMBJack recommended this fixed bracket to me several years ago and it's been perfect for me. I had the Garelick adjustable bracket prior to this and was scared to death it would fail every time I towed the boat to the ramp. I don't think the T-8's are available from Yamaha anymore but the T9.9 should be just as good if not better.

 

[glacierbaze]

I know that you want a long shaft, to keep the prop in the water when the boat rocks, but that one looks extreme, like an extended sailmaster. What is that shaft length?

 

[Mleslie347]

Hello,

With a kicker motor mounted off the transom, how well does steering with the main engine work? It would seem that trying to steering the boat with the tiller handle on the kicker would be quite inconvenient.

Unless you plan to add a kicker merely as a backup for getting back to the dock in event of some main motor issue, you'll definitely want some way to link the kicker to your main for steering purposes

I've had a kicker mounted on my last two Gradys. Old Grady was a 204c Overnighter with a Yamaha T9.9 mounted on an adjustable Panther Bracket and used an EZ Steer kicker tie bar (http://www.ezsteer.com) to connect the two motors. Simple, relatively inexpensive and effective to steer the kicker from the helm. Worked equally well when trolling on the autopilot. Tie bar extended enough to allow the kicker to be fully tilted when running to/from the ramp.

New Grady now has the same T9.9 + fixed bracket mounted on the swim step, but this time around went with the Seastar Kicker Cable Tie Bar (http://www.seastarsolutions.com/product ... tar_kicker). Assuming the Seafarer you are considering already has Seastar hydraulic steering, definitely would recommend at least taking a look at that option. Always connected, nothing to forget to attach/remove at the ramp, or getting in the way netting a fish - and still works flawlessly either steering manually or on the autopilot.

You'll have no problem with an 8hp or 9.9 hp kicker as the T9.9 has no problem pushing my 26' Islander all day at typical trout/salmon trolling speeds (1.8-3.0 mph) and tops out at around 7 or 8 mph should I ever need it to get back to shore. At trolling speeds, rarely is running at more than 20% throttle unless battling some serious head seas or gusty winds so no problems with noise. Just make sure to go with a high-thrust outboard for your kicker (Yamaha T9.9, Honda HT, Merc Prokicker) as those are geared/propped for providing enough bite at lower speeds/RPMs. Nice to be able to troll all day on couple gallons of gas.

Both were plumbed to the main tank. The Overnighter used a 3-way manual fuel selector valve (main/aux/off) located in the splash well between the Racor filter and the primer bulbs so I'd have to manually select which motor I wanted to run (boat came plumbed that way when I bought her). When I rigged the new Grady, I simply tapped into the second fuel outlet of one of the Racor filters and ran the fuel line straight to the kicker. I did add a one-way in-line check valve to the fuel line between the Racor filter and the kicker's primer bulb. Had read somewhere that that was advisable in case the main tried to pull fuel from the kicker's line should the primer bulb's internal check valve fail or grow weak over time. May not be necessary, but was easy enough to do.

 

[CatTwentyTwo]

I know that you want a long shaft, to keep the prop in the water when the boat rocks, but that one looks extreme, like an extended sailmaster. What is that shaft length?

I think it just looks that way because of the angle of the picture. Yamaha made a long and extra long T8 and I have the long model and the cavitation plate is just about even with the bottom of the hull. I'm not quite sure what the shaft length is. The service manual says the transom height is 20", the owners manual says it is 21.9" and when I measure from the clamp bracket to the cavitation plate it's 23".

 

[grunt]

I have a 208 and installed a Yamaha 9.9 high thrust 25" shaft with electric tilt and trim
Mounted on a solid bracket
I put a tee valve in the fuel line
We use the main engine to steer the boat from the helm
Everything works great

 

[Halfhitch]

Grunt, That set-up is what I want to do on my 205 Tournament. May I ask what the brand name of the bracket is? I am repowering right now and once I splash the boat I will see if I have enough freeboard below the deck drain through hulls to allow the extra weight.

 

[grunt]

I bought the bracket from Adventure Marine in Surrey British Columbia Canada.
Installed it with a backer plate inside of the transom.

 

[Halfhitch]

Thanks grunt.

 

[Fishtales]

I'd do it for sure with a single OB if I were going into blue water. I'd probably only use it for emergency use only so no tie to the main motor for steering. If your using it for trolling, then that's a different story.

 

[mheltunen]

I bought the bracket from Adventure Marine in Surrey British Columbia Canada.
Installed it with a backer plate inside of the transom.

Nice looking setup for a kicker and great write up. How do you determine what height to mount the bracket at? Well ....let me rephrase this, for a kicker install do you want the lowest partition of the kicker motor to match the main? I will probably be going this route next year and I’m sorta trying to “plan it out” now. In the past on previous vessels I’ve owned with a kicker mount they all seemed a bit too high and the motor would cavitate in a rolling sea. I intend to use this setup for trolling and will attach it via a bar to the main for steering purposes as well. To attach the bracket I can see thru bolting and backing is needed. How did you bed the thru bolts?

 

[grunt]

I mounted it to make sure that I had some clearance for the tiller when it was in the down position.
With the 25" shaft, it is always in the water.
And I left some clearance above the trim tabs for the mounting bracket.
I had to remove and remount some of the items inside of the transom.
And made up a bracket to mount the fuel T valve also.
We just use it for trolling for pickerel and rainbows here in Lake Erie.
For sealing the bolts I used some construction roll tape sealant that we use on standing seam roofs for pre-engineered steel buildings.
The stuff works great with no mess and seals 100%.

 

[Gradylover]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I talked with my Grady dealer and they said I need the long shaft. There is also pre-drilled holes on the swim platform for a bracket that's made for kicker motors. The dealer suggested using a panther steering system. I may either do that or use something similar. I don't have the boat yet, but I'm assuming there is a fuel filter with a secondary port to hook up a second line. If not, I'll probably install one. Once I get my boat and do the install, I'll post a bunch of pics on what I did and used.

 

[wavetamer]

Cant seem to get my pic to load. Have done a lot of these installs. I would be very cautious about mounting the kicker which weights about 110lbs to the 228 swim grid its only lagged to the transom, try to mount kicker as close to center as possible so you can turn comfortably in both directions , we use mounting tie bars or hydraulic seastar ram or the seastar cable tie , all work well. you really want to have the main engine for steering for specially in the wind best control. we pretty much always use extra long on all of our boats

 

[Gradylover]

I forgot to ask everyone how slow you can troll with then F8 motor?

Thanks.

 

[Pete]

Hi i have a yamaha t-8 on a bracket on my swim platform I have a 2005 228, you will need to brace your swim platform on that side, i used a stainless bracket and used ss lag screws on the bottom sealed with 5200 its super strong and doesn't move, your best bet is a long shaft or extra long is even better if your trolling with a following sea. Top speed is around 7 mph if i remember, I have pics i can send you of my installation if needed. oh t-8 and t-9 are basically the same they no longer make a t-8, i suggest power trim/electric start and you will have a sweet set up, for steering i just use a troll master arm the inexpensive one you can bend and take on and off, I also use the troll master throttle control which lets you control the speed from the helm.

cheers Kevin

 

[Tony64]

Unless you plan to add a kicker merely as a backup for getting back to the dock in event of some main motor issue, you'll definitely want some way to link the kicker to your main for steering purposes

I've had a kicker mounted on my last two Gradys. Old Grady was a 204c Overnighter with a Yamaha T9.9 mounted on an adjustable Panther Bracket and used an EZ Steer kicker tie bar (http://www.ezsteer.com) to connect the two motors. Simple, relatively inexpensive and effective to steer the kicker from the helm. Worked equally well when trolling on the autopilot. Tie bar extended enough to allow the kicker to be fully tilted when running to/from the ramp.

New Grady now has the same T9.9 + fixed bracket mounted on the swim step, but this time around went with the Seastar Kicker Cable Tie Bar (http://www.seastarsolutions.com/product ... tar_kicker). Assuming the Seafarer you are considering already has Seastar hydraulic steering, definitely would recommend at least taking a look at that option. Always connected, nothing to forget to attach/remove at the ramp, or getting in the way netting a fish - and still works flawlessly either steering manually or on the autopilot.

You'll have no problem with an 8hp or 9.9 hp kicker as the T9.9 has no problem pushing my 26' Islander all day at typical trout/salmon trolling speeds (1.8-3.0 mph) and tops out at around 7 or 8 mph should I ever need it to get back to shore. At trolling speeds, rarely is running at more than 20% throttle unless battling some serious head seas or gusty winds so no problems with noise. Just make sure to go with a high-thrust outboard for your kicker (Yamaha T9.9, Honda HT, Merc Prokicker) as those are geared/propped for providing enough bite at lower speeds/RPMs. Nice to be able to troll all day on couple gallons of gas.

Both were plumbed to the main tank. The Overnighter used a 3-way manual fuel selector valve (main/aux/off) located in the splash well between the Racor filter and the primer bulbs so I'd have to manually select which motor I wanted to run (boat came plumbed that way when I bought her). When I rigged the new Grady, I simply tapped into the second fuel outlet of one of the Racor filters and ran the fuel line straight to the kicker. I did add a one-way in-line check valve to the fuel line between the Racor filter and the kicker's primer bulb. Had read somewhere that that was advisable in case the main tried to pull fuel from the kicker's line should the primer bulb's internal check valve fail or grow weak over time. May not be necessary, but was easy enough to do.

Hello, on the new Grady which fixed bracket did you use?

 

[wavetamer]

this is what I did Square tubing . try

to get the kicker as close to center as possible for best control