Kicker motors

[Tony64]

Thank you Wavetamer, nice setup. but the question was for Mleslie347

 

[Jzeno186]

I agree with HMB, great little kicker on my 208. If you tap into the second fuel outlet on your primary fuel filter ( Racor) you do not need a tee valve. I mounted a remote tilt switch on the stern just above the splash well. Eliminates going to the controls at the helm every time to raise and lower the T8, As in launching and retrieving at ramp. Enjoy and Good Luck on your purchase. Cheers, trapper

Looking to add a 9.9 Yamaha on my 208. Did you add controls to it? Also what length shaft and type of mount did you use ?

 

[leeccoll]

I forgot to ask everyone how slow you can troll with then F8 motor?

Thanks.

I have a 9.9 Long Shaft High Thrust on my 228G, you can troll as slow as you care to.
Caveat-if the wind is blowing behind you, then you are at it's mercy.
In a good wind, my boat might go 2 mph without any assistance from the motor, that of course can be mitigated by trolling into the wind.

You might also want to consider installing a throttle control of some kind (Troll Master, iTroll) at the helm to adjust your engine speed from up front.

 

[leeccoll]

I bought the bracket from Adventure Marine in Surrey British Columbia Canada.
Installed it with a backer plate inside of the transom.

Plus 1 on the Adventure Marine bracket. I paid someone to do the engine and bracket install as I didn't want to make a snafu.

Just noticing this is an older thread

 

[trapper]

Maybe consider an iTroll for your kicker. The controls are mobile, remote on a harness, and control stations (idle, go. return to speed) can be purchased and installed so the kicker can be controlled in different areas on the boat. I have no stations but can control the kicker with the mobile harness (wiring) from anywhere, in my not so spacious 208.

 

[Jzeno186]

Plus 1 on the Adventure Marine bracket. I paid someone to do the engine and bracket install as I didn't want to make a snafu.

Just noticing this is an older thread

That’s the exact set up I’m looking to do! Are your batteries on starboard side also?

 

[leeccoll]

That’s the exact set up I’m looking to do! Are your batteries on starboard side also?

I have one battery on port, one on starboard right under the removable rear teak seat inserts.
Mechanic who installed the kicker wired it right to the starboard battery. He asked me if I was okay with that first.
The kicker's alternator throws back a lot of juice to the battery, so no issue there for me with the boats charging systems.
The positioning of the kicker on the starboard side created alot of list on that side, especially when I am out alone.
I did a band-aid fix that I am quite happy with....I put 6 bags of sandbags (240 lbs) in the cuddy against the port wall. I covered them with an extra blanket I had sitting around. It really enables the boat take on waves/chop like a tank, especially in heading seas.
I wanted you to give you the heads up about the listing issue.
Again, I am happy with my setup.

Also, I agree with trapper, I would go with iTroll over Troll Master to run the kicker from the helm. It's a better unit it seems.

Holler if you have any other questions. Attaching sand bag pic.

Lee

 

[Jzeno186]

I have one battery on port, one on starboard right under the removable rear teak seat inserts.
Mechanic who installed the kicker wired it right to the starboard battery. He asked me if I was okay with that first.
The kicker's alternator throws back a lot of juice to the battery, so no issue there for me with the boats charging systems.
The positioning of the kicker on the starboard side created alot of list on that side, especially when I am out alone.
I did a band-aid fix that I am quite happy with....I put 6 bags of sandbags (240 lbs) in the cuddy against the port wall. I covered them with an extra blanket I had sitting around. It really enables the boat take on waves/chop like a tank, especially in heading seas.
I wanted you to give you the heads up about the listing issue.
Again, I am happy with my setup.

Also, I agree with trapper, I would go with iTroll over Troll Master to run the kicker from the helm.

Holler if you have any other questions. Attaching sand bag pic.

Lee

Awesome! Maybe I’ll remove swim platform and add kicker bracket to the port side. I was also thinking of getting a kicker without a roller and adding a dual binnacle to control it from ... snags your thoughts on that?

 

[Jzeno186]

Awesome! Maybe I’ll remove swim platform and add kicker bracket to the port side. I was also thinking of getting a kicker without a roller and adding a dual binnacle to control it from ... snags your thoughts on that?

Phttps://youtu.be/lNput0-mJvQ

 

[leeccoll]

Awesome! Maybe I’ll remove swim platform and add kicker bracket to the port side. I was also thinking of getting a kicker without a roller and adding a dual binnacle to control it from ... snags your thoughts on that?

Well, couple of thoughts...

What year is your 208? The newer Grady models have been re engineered for heavier 4 stroke engines so the scuppers aren't buried in the water.
So listing might not be an issue for you. I like the kicker where I have it so when I am trolling with downriggers, it makes it the transom appear less cluttered as I turn backwards like a clumsy owl. I don't really notice the kicker too much from my line of vision. This is totally a subjective thing.
You can always move the ladder over to the other side, but if you are partial to my setup, just borrow or buy 2 bags of sand (100 lbs) , put them on the top of the starboard transom where the kicker would be installed and see if the boat lists or not. Then you would get a good picture of how it would balance out on that side if you installed it there while you are at the helm.

Dual binnacle, if that is something that could be configured, I really like the idea! I looked into helm controls for my kicker, but it would have meant 2 seperate stations. One for the main engine that was previously installed, and a new one for the kicker installed in an awkward location for me, so I decided against. One more thing to consider, is what you are using the kicker for? If you are using it for precise trolling as I do, you would want to make sure the kicker binnacle has fine-tuned throttle control, if you can't make it go a fraction of a mile faster or slower, would that be a deal buster for you? I can troll at 1.5 mph, and if I need to go 1.65 mph I have that capability with my Troll Master at the helm.
But if I could have side by side binnacle controls at the helm I would have said yes in a heartbeat.

If you don't like my sandbag trick, one last idea is to pay a young family member to stay up in the cuddy while underway LOL.
I never understood why he stopped coming fishing with me

 

[Jzeno186]

Well, couple of thoughts...

What year is your 208? The newer Grady models have been re engineered for heavier 4 stroke engines so the scuppers aren't buried in the water.
So listing might not be an issue for you. I like the kicker where I have it so when I am trolling with downriggers, it makes it the transom appear less cluttered as I turn backwards like a clumsy owl. I don't really notice the kicker from my line of vision. This is totally a subjective thing.
You can always move the ladder over to the other side, but if you are partial to my setup, just borrow or buy 2 bags of sand (100 lbs) , put them on the top of the starboard transom where the kicker would be installed and see if the boat lists or not. Then you would get a good picture of how it would balance out on that side if you installed it there while you are at the helm.

Dual binnacle, if that is something that could be configured, I really like the idea! I looked into helm controls for my kicker, buy it would have meant 2 seperate stations. One for the main engine that was previously installed, and a new one for the kicker installed in an awkward location for me, so I decided against. One more thing to consider, is what you are using the kicker for? If you are using it for precise trolling as I do, you would want to make sure the kicker binnacle has fine-tuned throttle control, if you can't make it go 1/15th of a mile faster or slower, would that be a deal buster for you? I can troll at 1.5 mph, and if I need to go 1.65 mph I have that capability with my Troll Master at the helm.
But if I could have side by side binnacle controls at the helm I would have said yes in a heartbeat.

If you don't like my sandbag trick, one last idea is to pay a young family member to stay up in the cuddy while underway LOL.
I never understood why he stopped coming fishing with me

Haha! Yah mine is a 2002 with a Yamaha 175hpdi.. I’ve attached a video of a 208 with a dual binnacle. I wil be trolling Lake Ontario for king salmon so the trolling speed is very important. Thanks for the tips !

 

[leeccoll]

Bob's your uncle on the dual binnacle.

That setup and a Teleflex SeaStar Kicker Cable Tie Bar between the 2 engines and I would be so very happy!!

 

[Jzeno186]

Haha! Yah mine is a 2002 with a Yamaha 175hpdi.. I’ve attached a video of a 208 with a dual binnacle. I wil be trolling Lake Ontario for king salmon so the trolling speed is very important. Thanks for the tips !

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Hi guys. I've got my T8 kicker mounted on my swim platform of my Seafarer 228 like many here. Now I'm trying to get the steering link working. Trying not to buy the expensive link from Seastar.

I've got the tiebar that mounts in the front of both motors but having trouble attaching it to the main.

Wavetamer,

Do you remember how you attached this bar (circled below) to your main motor? When I attach mine it binds the Seastar steering. It's been easy on my cable steering boats but hydraulic steering is new to me.



My setup I'm trying to get working but putting 2 bolts in binds the steering. Does someone have a better photo of how they attached a "arm" to their hydraulic steering or the main outboard?

 

[Jzeno186]

Hi guys. I've got my T8 kicker mounted on my swim platform of my Seafarer 228 like many here. Now I'm trying to get the steering link working. Trying not to buy the expensive link from Seastar.

I've got the tiebar that mounts in the front of both motors but having trouble attaching it to the main.

Wavetamer,

Do you remember how you attached this bar (circled below) to your main motor? When I attach mine it binds the Seastar steering. It's been easy on my cable steering boats but hydraulic steering is new to me.

View attachment 10345

My setup I'm trying to get working but putting 2 bolts in binds the steering. Does someone have a better photo of how they attached a "arm" to their hydraulic steering or the main outboard?

Not sure about the issue but what type of mount is that?

 

[leeccoll]

Hi guys. I've got my T8 kicker mounted on my swim platform of my Seafarer 228 like many here. Now I'm trying to get the steering link working. Trying not to buy the expensive link from Seastar.

I've got the tiebar that mounts in the front of both motors but having trouble attaching it to the main.

Wavetamer,

Do you remember how you attached this bar (circled below) to your main motor? When I attach mine it binds the Seastar steering. It's been easy on my cable steering boats but hydraulic steering is new to me.

View attachment 10345

My setup I'm trying to get working but putting 2 bolts in binds the steering. Does someone have a better photo of how they attached a "arm" to their hydraulic steering or the main outboard?

I will get you some pics in a couple days of my setup. My boat is at a shop getting the bottom paint removed, and that's almost completed.
I am not using the expensive Seastar link, and installed the Marinetech Panther 55-2700 Trolling Motor Tie Bar Kit.
I got it on Amazon for $110, but it was a deal from their warehouse. The stainless bar that ties the kicker to the main engine is 3/4"~very robust. It is installed into the existing Seastar cylinder on the main engine.
I had previously used the Panther 552600 Auxiliary Motor Steering Kit I purchased from Cabela's, which was a piece of crap. I went through 2 in a short duration, and the mounting hardware kept snapping off. It's not meant for heavy duty use. Back with pics asap!

 

[Ky Grady]

If I find I need a kicker to troll for Walleye in Lake Erie, I'll go this route. Hoping with drift sock and idling motor I can get down slow enough.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

I will get you some pics in a couple days of my setup. My boat is at a shop getting the bottom paint removed, and that's almost completed.
I am not using the expensive Seastar link, and installed the Marinetech Panther 55-2700 Trolling Motor Tie Bar Kit.
I got it on Amazon for $110, but it was a deal from their warehouse. The stainless bar that ties the kicker to the main engine is 3/4"~very robust. It is installed into the existing Seastar cylinder on the main engine.
I had previously used the Panther 552600 Auxiliary Motor Steering Kit I purchased from Cabela's, which was a piece of crap. I went through 2 in a short duration, and the mounting hardware kept snapping off. It's not meant for heavy duty use. Back with pics asap!

Thanks Lee, I may go this route. Since posting this I've found a way to put an aluminum bar underneath the yamaha steering arm vs on top. If I cut it shorter it won't hit the bracket when tilted up. Not ideal because it rubs the hydraulic cylinder and the rigging tube is in the way. I just ordered this same part Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket but not the tie bar kit. ( just bought the 2600 ) so hoping to save some cash.

I may have the same experience as you but I'll roll the dice since I have it already. I wish Grady would have put their boarding ladder on the starboard side like most other boats do. Having a kicker on the port is much easier as the rigging parts aren't in the way.

Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket for Sea Star Steering

Amazon.com : Marinetech Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket : Outboard Boat Motor Brackets : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Marinetech Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket : Outboard Boat Motor Brackets : Sports & Outdoors

amzn.to

I'll post pics when I get this part on wednesday.

 

[leeccoll]

Thanks Lee, I may go this route. Since posting this I've found a way to put an aluminum bar underneath the yamaha steering arm vs on top. If I cut it shorter it won't hit the bracket when tilted up. Not ideal because it rubs the hydraulic cylinder and the rigging tube is in the way. I just ordered this same part Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket but not the tie bar kit. ( just bought the 2600 ) so hoping to save some cash.

I may have the same experience as you but I'll roll the dice since I have it already. I wish Grady would have put their boarding ladder on the starboard side like most other boats do. Having a kicker on the port is much easier as the rigging parts aren't in the way.

Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket for Sea Star Steering

Amazon.com : Marinetech Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket : Outboard Boat Motor Brackets : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Marinetech Panther 55-2750 Stainless Steel Drive Bracket : Outboard Boat Motor Brackets : Sports & Outdoors

amzn.to

View attachment 10360

I'll post pics when I get this part on wednesday.

That's the exact same bracket I used. The only advantage with the kit has is it includes 2 swivels that attach to the ends of the stainless tie bar you cut to length, and allows either of the engines to raise or lower individually. You will like how it bolts securely into the Seastar steering cylinder. Then you can hopefully jimmy rig the 2 motors together.

Keep us posted, It's a better system than those kits that tie around the lower engine bodies in my opinion.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

I got the part yesterday and installed it in the dark with freezing rain. It was difficult to get the spacer washer out of the Seastar cylinder but brute force got it done. There is some slop still as the bracket doesn't seat all the way into the seastar cylinder. Not sure that is normal but it does line up fine with the "locking" screw. Not sure what to call it.



My main is setback a foot further aft than my kicker so the link will require a 90 bend. Not sure how I could have used the straight tie bar in the $200 kit. I'll have to bend my 3/8" stainless rod custom but I think it's possible.

Going to need an angle "iron" aluminum piece to mount the ball pivot the correct direction on the "adapter" pictured above.



security nuts breakaway after torqued. Red is lock tight. The stainless version shown below, bought from Albany fasteners


Modified 12 degree bracket to clear swim platform lip.



Gave up on this approach though it could work. I like how the tie bar could be straight. (had to shorten this to make it clear bracket on tilt up)


Shortened "arm" could work I think but tiebar hits rigging tube. Wouldn't if kicker was on port side. (center punching new version below)