Kicker motors

[leeccoll]

There is some play (slop) in your new Panther Stainless Drive Bracket, that is the design. I also installed with red lock tight. Yes there needs to be some "jimmy rigging" to adjust for the kicker motor offset....
I used some brackets I found at Home Depot to do this.
Hard to explain without a picture....will post my setup asap, but likely you will have figured out a suitable install by then!
Hang in there!!

 

[leeccoll]

Here are some quick pics of my setup. I definitely need to redo the kicker motor attachment, but it works fine.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Thanks, that is different than I imagined. I'll see if that will work with my setup. My kicker is almost a foot further forward, mounted on the swim step.

 

[leeccoll]

Drifter,
Looking at your picture of your swim platform, I believe it should be easier, since the offset of your main motor and kicker appear the same. Unless I am missing something?
There should be a bolt you can remove on the front of your kicker, which is what I did to attach my half-assed bracket to the from of my Honda 9.9
I'll take a picture tomorrow from above my set up. Will be easier to visualize what options you might have. For sure something can work, you just have to carefully think it through.
The good news is that Panther drive bracket is a solid foot to work off.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Drifter,
Looking at your picture of your swim platform, I believe it should be easier, since the offset of your main motor and kicker appear the same. Unless I am missing something?
There should be a bolt you can remove on the front of your kicker, which is what I did to attach my half-assed bracket to the from of my Honda 9.9
I'll take a picture tomorrow from above my set up. Will be easier to visualize what options you might have. For sure something can work, you just have to carefully think it through.
The good news is that Panther drive bracket is a solid foot to work off.

Yes photo from above would be great. So far my linkage requires a 90 degree bend to make it work but it won't turn all the way in one direction. Still working on it.

 

[leeccoll]

Hope these help. First picture is taken from behind the boat, other two are from on top looking down. You can see from my setup, I had to work my way around the kicker motor gear lever, so I made a work-a-round from two 90 degree brackets bolted together. I can trim either motor indepently.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Thanks very helpful. My kicker is 10" further forward but I'll post my solution when I find it.

 

[DennisG01]

Drifter... would this work: https://ezsteer.com/

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Drifter... would this work: https://ezsteer.com/

Thanks for the suggestions.
It would but I hate using it. Had it for years on other boats. Dangerous to climb back and hang off the boat to install on the rear of motors. I think I can make the front system work if I weld up my bent bar with gussets to make it stiffer.

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks for the suggestions.
It would but I hate using it. Had it for years on other boats. Dangerous to climb back and hang off the boat to install on the rear of motors. I think I can make the front system work if I weld up my bent bar with gussets to make it stiffer.

I've never used one - just seen them talked about/videos/etc. But I thought that once it was in place, the rod stayed there? From what you're saying, it sounds like it's supposed to be removed every day?

 

[UCPA111]

If I find I need a kicker to troll for Walleye in Lake Erie, I'll go this route. Hoping with drift sock and idling motor I can get down slow enough.

View attachment 10358View attachment 10359

I troll Erie and my Verado 300 idles down low enough. If windy and going with waves, I sometimes toss a bucket over on a rope and it works great. 1.5-1.6mph. Normally, I am bumping up my rpm to troll at the speed I want.

 

[Ginger]

Years ago, I had a Yamaha long shaft T8 Kicker for my 228 and it was a perfect engine for that in my opinion. You need thrust and the T8 delivers it. More HP is simply more weight back there. My T8 had electric start and electric trim which was nice. I had it mounted on the starboard stern to offset the battery weight (port side).

Yes, you are correct, you feed the kicker off the main tank but you must install a tee valve in the kicker line. This is to ensure the main engine does not pull fuel (and air) from the kicker fuel line. So, you just need to remember to open the tee valve before you run the kicker and close it after you turn it off. Easy.

As to steering, yes, you can steer the boat with the main engine used as a rudder. It works pretty good but not so much if it's really windy. I ended up using one of those bars you attach to your main engine and it worked pretty good. I'd recommend it for sure. See photo below).

Lastly, I used a heavy duty fixed mount for the kicker (not a Garelick or similar unit). I would recommend a fixed mount since it is stronger than anything that "moves". I hope this helps and good luck with your own set-up.

Hi Jack,
Who's the manufacturer/ part number of that bracket?

 

[HMBJack]

Hi Jack,
Who's the manufacturer/ part number of that bracket?

Sorry but I don't remember. All I recall is it was a semi-custom shop in Oregon that made and painted them. This outfit then sold them through Central Valley Marine in Campbell, CA. (our local GW Dealer). If you called them, they may still be sourcing these brackets. Good luck.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

Years ago, I had a Yamaha long shaft T8 Kicker for my 228 and it was a perfect engine for that in my opinion. You need thrust and the T8 delivers it. More HP is simply more weight back there. My T8 had electric start and electric trim which was nice. I had it mounted on the starboard stern to offset the battery weight (port side).

Yes, you are correct, you feed the kicker off the main tank but you must install a tee valve in the kicker line. This is to ensure the main engine does not pull fuel (and air) from the kicker fuel line. So, you just need to remember to open the tee valve before you run the kicker and close it after you turn it off. Easy.

As to steering, yes, you can steer the boat with the main engine used as a rudder. It works pretty good but not so much if it's really windy. I ended up using one of those bars you attach to your main engine and it worked pretty good. I'd recommend it for sure. See photo below).

Lastly, I used a heavy duty fixed mount for the kicker (not a Garelick or similar unit). I would recommend a fixed mount since it is stronger than anything that "moves". I hope this helps and good luck with your own set-up.

Can anyone tell me the make and model of the mounting bracket in the post above?
I'll try calling that Grady dealer HMBJack posted but I made a major screwup, I ordered a new T9.9 with 20" shaft and the Adventure Marine 4100 and it won't work. The trim tab piston won't allow the motor to be mounted low enough and even if I could exchange the motor for a 25" shaft (which I don't think is possible) I'm not sure it'll get the prop deep enough.

Here's a pic that helps explain the issue. Is a 25" shaft mandatory or will a different (must be fixed) bracket solve the issue?

 

[DennisG01]

Can anyone tell me the make and model of the mounting bracket in the post above?
I'll try calling that Grady dealer in OR but made a major screwups and ordered a new T9.9 with 20" shaft and the Adventure Marine 4100 and it won't work. The trim tab piston won't allow the motor to be mounted low enough and even if I could exchange the motor for a 25" shaft (which I don't think is possible) I'm not sure it'll get the prop deep enough.

Here's a pic that helps explain the issue. Is a 25" shaft mandatory or will a different (must be fixed) bracket solve the issue?

Bob, there's 54 posts and multiple pictures of brackets. Which bracket are you asking about?

Can you cut/modify the bracket to mount lower? Cut it (reinforce where needed) so it slides down over top the tab ram? Then put an adjustable motor bracket on the end of of the fixed bracket.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

Bob, there's 54 posts and multiple pictures of brackets. Which bracket are you asking about?

Can you cut/modify the bracket to mount lower? Cut it (reinforce where needed) so it slides down over top the tab ram? Then put an adjustable motor bracket on the end of of the fixed bracket.

Thanks Dennis, It's the one HMB Jack posted but here's the pic. I tried to contact there vendor he referenced but they didn't answer. I assumed they were closed due to COVID but I'll try again tomorrow.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Get a bracket from Garlick that raises and lowers. Problem solved. Used to run a 20” kicker on 2 previous boats.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Get a bracket from Garlick that raises and lowers. Problem solved. Used to run a 20” kicker on 2 previous boats.

mount it on the port side and avoid problems, wish I had.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

PNW, I may need to go that route but I had one of those Garlic type brackets on my last boat and almost lost the engine when it broke...

What are the problems installing it to Starboard? I like it on the starboard side so I can see it better while docking, balances the batteries which are already to port, and I use it for running a trot line crabbing so I can run the tiller with my left hand and the net with my right. I've also noticed single screw boats tend to list to starboard under power due to the prop rotation so this should help minimize trim tab use.

 

[wrxhoon]

I wouldn't use a Garelick bracket either. I had one break several years ago and I almost lost the 10 hp outboard the only thing that saved it was the safety cable . I had the heavy duty ally adjustable rated for 20 hp .
If I was you I would buy a fixed bracket like the one in the above picture.
Panther use to make a heavy duty electrically adjusted bracket you may want to check it out :

https://96bda424cfcc34d9dd1a-0a7f10f87519dba22d2dbc6233a731e5.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/panthermarineproducts/55-0035_spec_hansen.pdf