Lessons learned for a new Tournament 192 owner

[Noble Savage]

After literally five years of searching we finally found a ridiculously clean 192 here in California. Let me give you some details while the purchase is still fresh and Im still in the honeymoon phase. The boat is a 1997, so I was obviously very concerned about the million problems that can come with a 20 year old boat...rotten transom, rotten stringers, leaking fuel tanks, gelled fuel system, 20 year old outboard, and the list goes on. I went to look at the boat with the idea of repowering right off the back since reliability is my number one concern. So my mind was blown when I realized that I was buying the boat from the original owner with less than 150 hours total use (probably less than 100). No stress fractures, no bottom paint, never stored in the water, always covered, cushions stored in the garage, probably has been in salt water twice. I couldn't believe it. Furthermore, the outboard mechanic said the 175 HP Yamaha two stroke is in awesome condition...it has no corrosion, good compression, fires right up, not even salt build up inside the engine cover. Ridiculous. Sitting is not great for outboards as we all know. But at least this guy had the carbs rebuilt three years ago...and it runs like a champ. He was the sort of owner who still had some maintenance done on the boat even though he wasn't using it .He just spent $1500 with receipts for a complete trailer rebuild. And the price...$6500...which is crazy in California since we have way fewer boats than you boys in Texas, Florida and other such boat heavy places. There is a 2011 Freedom 20 in our harbor for $49000. Anyway, can you please post your lessons learned or problems to anticipate.

Here are the concerns I've identified:
1. The outboard clunks pretty good going into gear. I suspect this is a linkage adjustment issue. Any advice? I know older outboard clunk more than any of us would like...but how much is normal. Even my brand new yamaha 25 thumps a little going into gear.
2. Yikes. The 2 stroke oil reservoir has no bulletproof seal on the top. So rinsing down the boat it seems entirely possible to get water into the oil reservoir. Worst design ever? Im going to drain the oil and build a cover over the tank...just a heads up.
3. Fuel Gauge is not working. Hopefully just a loose wire. Breaking the seal on a fuel tank is just asking for trouble.
4. I don't yet trust the oil injection system so I've been premixing fuel in the tank at 100:1 using Yamaha 2 stroke oil. I figure the injection system will double it and I will end up with 50:1. No need to bore anyone with the old "what fuel ratio discussion"...but let me know if I am a complete idiot.

Here's what I have done so far:
1. Suctioned all of the fuel out of the tank and lines and discarded it to the free hazmat collection in our county...I will not mess around with old fuel ever again.
2. Had the annual service performed by a Yamaha mechanic...new water pump kit, lube, spark plugs, etc.
3. Changed out two fuel water separators and pumped fresh fuel through/
4. I've taken her out twice...and she ran great for a total of 20 miles so far. What RPM range should I be keeping her at. I've been taking it easy while she literally knocks the rust off.

Any advice would be great. Thanks. More photos to follow.

 

[glacierbaze]

1. The outboard clunks pretty good going into gear. I suspect this is a linkage adjustment issue. Any advice? I know older outboard clunk more than any of us would like...but how much is normal. Even my brand new yamaha 25 thumps a little going into gear.

The more you try to ease it, the more the clunk. Make the shifts quick and decisive.

4. I don't yet trust the oil injection system so I've been premixing fuel in the tank at 100:1 using Yamaha 2 stroke oil. I figure the injection system will double it and I will end up with 50:1. No need to bore anyone with the old "what fuel ratio discussion"...but let me know if I am a complete idiot.

I don't think the oil injection calculates oil content in the fuel, only what is needed to match fuel flow and engine load. You added half of the 50:1, and the system will add up to the full 50:1. That's 1.5 time the required oil, or 33:1.

 

[Noble Savage]

Thanks for the response.

I think you're right on being decisive with the shifts. Our backup fire engines at work have non-synchronized manual transmissions. We often say "drive it like you stole it" because hesitation causes grinding. I'll see if a little more gusto cleans up the shifts

I premixed at 100:1 for worst case scenario...the injection system might not work at all!!! Im not sure what those systems are calibrated to inject at...I assumed 100:1. Please let me know the auto inject ratio if someone knows for sure. But you are certainly right that Im running my 100:1 plus whatever ratio the system is contributing. Boat ran like a champ though.

 

[journeyman]

After literally five years of searching we finally found a ridiculously clean 192 here in California.

Congrats! Sounds like you had the exact opposite experience than someone else recently who purchased a Grady here on this board. Goes to prove that even a Rolls Royce will decay over time if not maintained properly. Good luck with her. ENJOY!!!

 

[Topjimmy]

I have a 1995 192 that has been in our family since new and untill recently it has been sitting next to a floating home here in Seattle it's whole life (fresh Water) I finally took it out of the water last year when I moved(only 2nd time on it's trailer) and pulled the drain plug and only about 3 cups of water came out My boat has ZERO rot and the 150 Yammy still runs great with 120 compression in all cylinders the oil injection system has never had problems as I change the tank filter every 2 years, when I pulled it out there was a LOT of Alagee on the bottom and most of the bottom paint is gone but other than basic Maintanence every year and always being covered when not in use and putting new scuppers in every few years that's it and the Great Grady is ready for another 20 years these Boats are tough! when taken care of but One thing I need like you is a new Shift cable it clunks into to gear pretty hard and it is adjusted out all the way so i will take it to the shop and have them put a new shift AND throttle cable and Bottom paint and I will be good to go for next Summer for it's first trip in Salt water in 23 years out here on the Washington coast

 

[glacierbaze]

I think that 50:1 has been the industry standard for oil burners for a long time.

 

[Noble Savage]

Thanks for the heads up top jimmy. I didn't realize there is a filter in that oil injection unit. I will certainly replace it. Also, I didn't realize that the scuppers were an easily replaceable part...I will look for them on the internet. I will also have that linkage looked at, or replaced so as to be as kind as possible to that outboard. At this point I just keep thinking this thing is too good to be true. The nightmare thing about boats is that the boat can be dialed in 99.5%, but a $20 part goes bad 20 miles offshore...and things get a whole lot less fun. Thanks again.

 

[Sdfish]

Best of luck with your new boat! I just got an 1999 Adventure 208, so I know exactly how you feel. My 150 2 stroke yamaha surges at about 3500 rpm, so research indicates that I need to change some fuel filters, VST and one more. Your trailer and boat look brand new! Again, good luck!

 

[Topjimmy]

yep no problem, I never liked the stock black flap scuppers they always still let water in my boat untill I discovered these scuppers https://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-FMS10DP-Flow-Max/dp/B000XBHNH4 and never had a problem since also it it true a 20 dollar part will ruin a trip fuel filter etc... but I tell ya one thing I will Never go 20 miles offshore in a 192 Tourney open bow and a single motor ,i will go out over the Bar if the waves are not over 4 ft and go out in the ocean a little ways and if my main motor breaks I have my Kicker to get me back but 20 miles ??????? NOPE

 

[seasick]

1. The outboard clunks pretty good going into gear. I suspect this is a linkage adjustment issue. Any advice? I know older outboard clunk more than any of us would like...but how much is normal. Even my brand new yamaha 25 thumps a little going into gear.

The more you try to ease it, the more the clunk. Make the shifts quick and decisive.

4. I don't yet trust the oil injection system so I've been premixing fuel in the tank at 100:1 using Yamaha 2 stroke oil. I figure the injection system will double it and I will end up with 50:1. No need to bore anyone with the old "what fuel ratio discussion"...but let me know if I am a complete idiot.

I don't think the oil injection calculates oil content in the fuel, only what is needed to match fuel flow and engine load. You added half of the 50:1, and the system will add up to the full 50:1. That's 1.5 time the required oil, or 33:1.

The Yamaha Precision Oil system does not take fuel flow or load into account. The rate of oil delivery is determined purely by throttle position. The mix ratio is variable and changes with the throttle position. The ratio varies form about 40:1 to 100:1 if I remember correctly. A common problem with the system is that the linkage connecting the oil pump to the throttle linkage breaks, comes loose, or slips out of adjustment. When the linkage breaks or disconnects, the pump sends maximum oil into the VST tank. Too much oil will cause plugs to foul, excessive smoking and possible fouling of the O2 sensor. There is a procedure in the service manual to measure the flow of the pump. It is a bit of a pain to do but since you already use premix, the task is easier. The Precision Oil system rarely fails but it could. Folks who decide to premix usually disconnect the oil system since using both will most certainly result in too high a mix ratio.

 

[Parthery]

Some good advice here.

You don't need to mix oil with that motor. Old school outboards got a bad rap because of the OMC VRO system. Yamaha's Precision Blend system is a good one. The motor gets its oil from the motor mounted tank and the remote tank feeds the onboard tank.

It's definitely worth replacing the filter in the remote (boat mounted) tank. Remove the tank from the brackets and drain it. Flip it over and you will see the filter on the bottom. Clean out the tank...swap the filter...reassemble and refill with fresh oil.

On my tank, the cap screws tightly over the opening and no water can get past it. If you have doubts, it might be worth it to replace the cap.

Congratulations and welcome to the GW family.

 

[SkunkBoat]

One soft clunk is normal, a hard clunk can be caused by too high an idle rpm, clunking is a problem that could be simple cable adjustment or could be worn clutch dog.
If you are mechanically inclined, the shift and throttle cables are cheap and easy to check/replace/adjust.

The Yamaha OX66 injection system is pretty reliable. Without pre-mix, did it make a big blue cloud when you start and stink all the time???...IT WORKS!
Just make sure the filter on the big tank is replaced and the oil pump works and keeps the small tank in the motor filled. You can do a quick eyeball test by watching the level of the big tank. At 50:1 it'll burn a gallon of oil for every 50 gals of gas.
If you have deep pockets, keep buying Yamaha oil...otherwise Pennzoil is $20/gal at your local auto store.

You ran it for 20 miles, it runs ...have fun...

Is it a lake boat or are you going to run outside?

 

[Noble Savage]

Wow. Great advice. I really appreciate it. I will replace oil injection filter and continue to monitor its performance. I'm also going to fine tune throttle and shift cables...why beat up a good condition outboard. Also, will switch to a cheaper outboard 2 stroke oil, and replace scuppers.
With regard to going 20 miles offshore...isn't that why I bought a Grady? I run scared, but a 28 footer can end up in trouble in a heartbeat. The key in my mind is contingency plan: Coast Guard bird 25 minutes out, satellite beacon, cell phone, marine radio, flare gun, itinerary
posted to other parties, buddy boat, wetsuits in case of total loss, $10 inflatable raft, safety briefing, and don't be scared to call for help. Thanks again for the help. Let me know any other outboard related leads.

Two more things:
1. The anchor system looks like a bad idea for saltwater. It brings saltwater into a carpeted and confined space on the boat and seems susceptible to long term salt and corrosion build up. Maybe that's paranoid, but im going to avoid using it when possible.
2. I heard that the oil injection motor on the tank can corrode from saltwater exposure and that coating it with silicone, paint or some other means of water proofing is a good hop.

 

[seasick]

Wow. Great advice. I really appreciate it. I will replace oil injection filter and continue to monitor its performance. I'm also going to fine tune throttle and shift cables...why beat up a good condition outboard. Also, will switch to a cheaper outboard 2 stroke oil, and replace scuppers.
With regard to going 20 miles offshore...isn't that why I bought a Grady? I run scared, but a 28 footer can end up in trouble in a heartbeat. The key in my mind is contingency plan: Coast Guard bird 25 minutes out, satellite beacon, cell phone, marine radio, flare gun, itinerary
posted to other parties, buddy boat, wetsuits in case of total loss, $10 inflatable raft, safety briefing, and don't be scared to call for help. Thanks again for the help. Let me know any other outboard related leads.

Two more things:
1. The anchor system looks like a bad idea for saltwater. It brings saltwater into a carpeted and confined space on the boat and seems susceptible to long term salt and corrosion build up. Maybe that's paranoid, but im going to avoid using it when possible.
2. I heard that the oil injection motor on the tank can corrode from saltwater exposure and that coating it with silicone, paint or some other means of water proofing is a good hop.

Isn't there an anchor locker up front? Is it carpeted inside? In any case, If there is carpet, yes it may remain wet but in reality it is the anchor line that stays wet and stays wet for a long time based on my experience.Of course that assumes you use the anchor
The remote tank pump does occasionally corrode but it is still pretty reliable and many have never needed to replace it. I general the locker for the oil tank is pretty dry as is the bilge in general for that hull. Don't wash down the locker with salt water and it should be fine.
You may want to look at the steering box and steering cable. Those do wear out and yours may be original. The steering cable is a bigger job to replace than the shift/throttle cables.

 

[Parthery]

I've heard of the remote tanks failing but its not a common occurrence. Even if it does, you wont be stranded. When the engine mounted tank gets low, an alarm will sound. Remove the engine cover and you can fill the tank on the motor directly. This will get you home and into the shop to repair it.

Yamalube is great but at $38/gallon I can find other things to spend my money on. I've used Pennzoil XLF for over 20 years and not one issue. It's $17/gallon at Walmart. From time to time they will have it for $15.88 on a rollback. I generally stock up when they do.