Lewmar V700: Capstan turns, Gypsy does not. Problem Solved - with Pics. A strand of line slid under a non-moving part.

[wahoo33417]

Tried looking for a similar post first, but did not find one (nor on the net) so I'll ask the experience people here.

Situation: While slowly motoring forward to create slack in anchor line, windlass was retrieving line normally. Then line retrieval mechanism (what I believe is the gypsy) stopped turning while the top portion (capstan?) continued to turn. So I stopped retrieval and made first use of Lewmar 'wrench' tool. Inserted socket-like portion of wrench into star-shaped receiving hole in top of capstan. That allowed me to manually retrieve some anchor line. I had thought that this would have tightened what I hoped was a loosened clutch.

Resumed normal retrieval process with boat in gear and recovered about a foot of line before problem re-occurred.

As we were in shallow water and I could now see the anchor, I just hand cranked it in from there.

But I do believe the problem persists.

I did not see anything obvious to me that suddenly kicked out of place after retrieving that one foot of line after what I thought was tightening the clutch.

Might it be a be a bad clutch? I prefer that it be operator ignorance of the windlass!

Any thoughts?

Tx, Rob

 

[Paul_A]

This thread may help, particularly post #10 and #15 and the video on #23

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/191132-lewmar-windlass-clutch-trouble.html

 

[wahoo33417]

Thanks. I found that THT thread in my search. The video is great. I just didn't know how much the vertical Pro Fish and my horizontal V700 have in common. Its a shame that the images from thread #10 are no longer available.

Do you know if there is a way to confirm whether the threads are the problem? Can I remove capstan and clutch and then should I be able to thread a certain size/thread nut onto it easily?

Tx, Rob

 

[Halfhitch]

Print yourself out a copy of the exploded parts view and go out and start taking it apart. Take phone pictures as you go if you are unsure. Stack the parts in order. You will get to understand what "makes it tick" and will no doubt figure out why it is not taking in line. They are pretty simple devices. Dive in! The waters fine!

 

[Paul_A]

Thanks. I found that THT thread in my search. The video is great. I just didn't know how much the vertical Pro Fish and my horizontal V700 have in common. Its a shame that the images from thread #10 are no longer available.

Do you know if there is a way to confirm whether the threads are the problem? Can I remove capstan and clutch and then should I be able to thread a certain size/thread nut onto it easily?

Tx, Rob

I don't but I'm with Halfhitch, just start taking it apart. If the threads are buggered it sounds like it will be readily apparent. If the boat is in the water lay down some towels so if you drop a part it may not bounce into the water

 

[wahoo33417]

Paul and Halfhitch: Thanks. I'm headed to the boat today. I enjoy taking things apart. And even putting them back together, because it usually leaves me with some spare parts!

Tx, Rob

 

[wahoo33417]

Thanks to help and encouragement here, the windlass is working. As suggested, I took photos of each step, so I'll post them here to reveal what the problem and simple solution was.I should point out that I could not move the anchor line through the windlass. It was somehow jammed in there. I'm guessing this happened after I tightened the clutch and the windlass gained a foot of line and then quit.

First, remove the capstan:

That revealed a threaded piece that hasn't seen grease likely since the boat was new 14 years ago. But the threads themselves looked okay:

So onto to removing the Allan wrench screws that secure a cover plate:

Those screws have seen about as much grease these past 14 years:

With that covering plate removed, I could see where anchor line was jammed, but I couldn't free it without risking really fraying the anchor line:

SoI loosened one more allen head screw holding down the part (I do not know its name) that the line managed to wedged itself under. This allowed the line to come free. Something would seem amiss if there was a gap that a strand of line could slide under. Maybe the screw wasn't tight enough?:

So I cleaned out the little bits of debris, lubed all the threads and put everything back together. Especially tightening that piece underwich the line was caught. After that, all worked well.

Rob

 

[rockpool]

I had the same Lewmar on a previous boat - it ate the line all the time.

I would throw the parts in a bath of white vinegar for an hour or so, wash it with fresh water and then grease it well as you reinstall.

don't forget to spritz it with anticorrosion spray when you do the rest of the boat in future and you'll get a few more years out of it.

 

[Paul_A]

Thanks for the update. It definitely looks ready for some tlc. Glad it was an easy fix.

---

 

[seasick]

Great pics and narrative. Nice job.

 

[PointedRose]

Nice work. Just throwing this out there, even though you no longer need any advice since the problem is solved.

one way to make sure no small parts bounce off the boat into the drink is to use a cardboard box - cut a hole in the bottom to fit over the windlass (or whatever else), maybe tape it down to the boat hull and you will prevent a part drop as it’ll land within the box.

 

[rockpool]

Nice work. Just throwing this out there, even though you no longer need any advice since the problem is solved.

one way to make sure no small parts bounce off the boat into the drink is to use a cardboard box - cut a hole in the bottom to fit over the windlass (or whatever else), maybe tape it down to the boat hull and you will prevent a part drop as it’ll land within the box.

You are so right - especially if you're working on something while over water. Too many times I've had to grab my scuba gear because I dropped something vital off the boat while working on it on the lift. Last time it was the prop nut on a volvo duo - out of stock everwhere local at the time.