LIve well and wash down

[Bloodweiser]

Need some more information. I am trying to complete several projects and upgrades at once it seems, the more I start to dig the more stuff needs attention. Goal is to have it all done by 4/1.

Tore apart the live well/wash down when the seacock for the wash down was stuck and would not move. See pics.
questions: I have not removed either valve yet, can I assume that they both are 1"npt valves? also what is the name of the pieces that fit into the square opening on the ball valve handles?? mine rotted and broke. I plan on replacing all hoses as well , do the hose have to be exhaust rated etc??

lastly, I assume in the third pick that is a check valve or backflow preventer ??


thanks guys,


Bloodweiser

 

[Holokai]

I wouldn’t assume on the size and if it’s frozen you might want to consider replacing that with a seacock with a flanged base (bonus is you'll
know the size when replacing). There are way too many boat out there where seacocks are replaced with other types of thru hull/ball valve combinations due to cost/availability of parts/etc. Not a good place to cut corners since it’s basically a hole in your hull below the waterline.

For the valve try this extension handle/remote operation arm:

Seacock Remote Operation Arm - T-H Marine Supplies

Makes operating hard to reach seacock valves much easier. Operate seacock from the deck Stainless Steel construction Mounting brackets available to keep arm in easy to reach position Custom lengths available for boat manufacturers Brackets not included, sold separately. OEM/Bulk Product Name...

thmarinesupplies.com

Hose so be rated for below waterline use and double clamped.

That looks like a check valve. Not necessary if you have the system set up correctly. Maybe an old inline strainer?

 

[Bloodweiser]

thanks for the information and link.

 

[Keeldad]

Holokai, Thanks for the link on the remote operator arm. I have a 1999 Seafarer 226 and have been looking for something exactly like that so I don’t have to open the access plate each time I operate a sea valve.

 

[wrxhoon]

I'm with Holokai , replace the thru hulls/ball valves with new ones, new hoses with double clamps. At the very least I would pull out the thru hulls and check the condition, if they come out in one piece. You need a check valve for the livewell only. If you don't the livewell will drain when stopped and pump off as it normally feeds the bottom of the tank.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I would ditch the wired hoses for vinyl like Sheilds 149. Thats on my "to do" list too

 

[Bloodweiser]

Do you use 3m adhesive sealant between bottom of hull and seacock? good advice all around thanks guys

 

[Fishtales]

Some of the pulls had steel components. There is a new end "U" type that screws to the pull and has a pin that goes through each end and the seacock handle. This one won't rust.

 

[Fishtales]

Seacock Remote Operation Arm - T-H Marine Supplies

Makes operating hard to reach seacock valves much easier. Operate seacock from the deck Stainless Steel construction Mounting brackets available to keep arm in easy to reach position Custom lengths available for boat manufacturers Brackets not included, sold separately. OEM/Bulk Product Name...

thmarinesupplies.com

All you need to find is the cleavis pin end.

 

[Halfhitch]

Seacock Remote Operation Arm - T-H Marine Supplies

Makes operating hard to reach seacock valves much easier. Operate seacock from the deck Stainless Steel construction Mounting brackets available to keep arm in easy to reach position Custom lengths available for boat manufacturers Brackets not included, sold separately. OEM/Bulk Product Name...

thmarinesupplies.com

All you need to find is the cleavis pin end.

I agree. Grady quit using the "ball and socket" connector because it corrodes and seizes too quickly. They now use a threaded, stainless clevis. If you don,t have a supplier near you, you can order one from McMasters.

 

[Fishtales]

I know GW dealers sell them. I replaced all mine a while back. The new ones don't rust at all.

 

[Bloodweiser]

The upgraded part, is that the one posted above from the marine supply store?

 

[Keeldad]

My Seafarer doesn’t have these, probably because it is older. Right now if I want to open the sw washdown or livewell valves I have to open the deck flange in the splashwell (serious PIA). Where does the operating end (handle) come out? I could imagine straight up into the splashwell through a hole with a bellows or some gasket to to keep water intrusion to a minimum but maybe sideways into the under-seat spaces on each side of the splashwell?

 

[Bloodweiser]

Is this a special tool to remove.? A big crows foot? Valve is really rusted corroded on. First thought is of cutting it all off with a cutoff wheel and start all new? Any ideas besides that?

 

[Fishtales]

The upgraded part, is that the one posted above from the marine supply store?

It is the spayed end only. The rod is threaded at the end and screws into it. It uses a clevis pin to go through the thru hull valve handle.

 

[Bloodweiser]

Got it. Pita..

 

[Bloodweiser]

OK now that it is out. What are the specific name for the ball valve with the notch in the handle? Also what is the attached image called? I might be able to salvage the threads but just in case I can't

 

[Halfhitch]

You have a through-hull raw water pickup/strainer and a bronze ball valve. If you want to upgrade to a genuine seacock get one of these...
https://sarasota.craigslist.org/bpo/d/sarasota-bronze-sea-cocks-2/7073341535.html