Looking at a 265-what to look for, opinions, etc

SeaVee

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Hi All,

Long time lurker here, looking at a 2001 265 with 200 HPDI's. I have sea trialed it and have a survey coming up this week.

Just wanted some opinions on what to look out for with hull, systems, and engines.

TIA,
SeaVee
 

SkunkBoat

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just got my 2000 265 in October.

my fuel tanks are new so maybe you should check that.
Had problems with a oil pump in a main oil reservoir. ( fyi,the motors will run on the small oil tank inside the motor long enough to test drive)
Its inside the rear hatch that is probably sealed on the boat you are looking at.
there is a single round port to put your hand in there and throw the water valves.
It would be a good idea, if you can, to get into that space and into the fuel tank space.

make sure the trim tabs work.
Live well, wash down pumps.
Macerator? check head for leaks/cracks.
My wiper was removed (useless anyway because you look thru the eisenglass not the windshield.

The "tailgate" on mine has had some abuse over the years. Looks like people have stepped on it while it was down.

oh, you said you ran it. You must be someplace warm...
Has the smile stuck to your face???? :dance

It is an awesome design. A fishing machine.
 

SeaVee

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Yep- been looking for one or a 26 Regulator Express off and on for awhile. Getting it surveyed prior to closing on it. I ran my neighbors 26 Reg Express alot, I like the center helm and cabin way more on the Grady. Fish box looks a little small. Don't know how many 40lb class YFT will fit in there. Thanks for the info!
 

SkunkBoat

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SeaVee said:
Fish box looks a little small. Don't know how many 40lb class YFT will fit in there.

don't know if you where joking 'bout the fishbox? It is HUGE!.
Haven't had tuna in it yet but we did have 36 nice dolphin and 45 seabass and four 20 pound bags of ice and two 5 gal buckets of chum.

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RouwnhDl.jpg
 

Fishtales

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The surveyor should be on top of things but... Stringers and transom are a must check. Check the hull (sound and moisture meter). Inspect the hard top. Look for any rust or black drips. The latter indicates the coring may be wet. Test fit and verify zippers on the enclosure. Props for any damage, easy to get some love should you need to have them touched up. Any additional gear (safety, raft, epirb, plb) if offered. No good if out of date. Service records on motor(s)? When was major/maint work last done (zincs, internal anodes, water pump, t-stats etc), power trim (at engine, at throttle and top of binnacle).
 

SeaVee

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Thanks guys, keep it coming!. One thing the owner told me is that he has never used the aux tank in the 13 years he's had it.So I know I'll have to have that tank polished, at the very least. It looks like the tanks are fairly easy to access. Has anyone replaced those two tanks with one single? I only need about 200-250 mile range at the very most, I'm thinking one 200 gal tank would be simpler.
Also, the hull stripes and GW/ Logo on one side have sen better days, is it easy to get replacements?
TIA,
SeaVee
 

SeaVee

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Also, I keep hearing Grady uses plastic thru-hulls that can get brittle and fail.Anyone else heard that? How hard are they to replace with SS Thru-Hulls?
 

TUNAHUNTER197

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I've pulled up the deck and also pulled up both my tanks on my 265. Very very easy to do, preferably with another guy or a hoist. The large deck comes up, the aux tank comes out first then the main. Install in reverse order.

Make sure you run the 265 in some slop so you are aware of it's bow steering as well as following seas can be tricky. Motor trim and some throttle will fix that problem.

Pull up the fwd inspection hatch in the cabin and see how those thru hulls are doing, there is also two bilge pumps in there that you should test manually.

Pull out the two storage boxes in the transom and have a look around. Those are known to leak a lot into the bilge.

Check out the aluminum cap on the transom. If yours is like mine it'll be corroded to shit, apply sealant to the cap annually to stop any water intrusion.

Fish box is huge, whoever said it wasn't is a dummy! I saw a 200lb+ mako stuffed into one and 29 albacore stuff into another one. I'd say you can fit 9 or 10 40lb+ yellowfin in there. Its a huge fish box. Also the back deck is large so a Yeti 105 or 125 fits nicely against the back gate for more fish storage.

If the boat is on the trailer walk around the boat and tap away around the cleats, rod holders, any water intrusion access spot to hear any hollow thuds.

I have pulled my boat apart and put everything back together so if you have any specific questions reach out. The boat's a tank, takes some getting used to but its nice being able to plow through a head sea and be dry when you get back to the dock.
 

drbatts

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There is a lot of good information above. I had an 02 with f225's for 10 seasons which I sold last year, so I cannot comment on the HPDi's. If you have driven the boat then you probably know about its idiosyncrasies. Once you learn to trim her out right, she is a beast and can handle some rough stuff. She is a big 26ft boat with a huge cockpit thanks to the folding transom.

You will definitely want to check the saltwater washdown, livewell pumps and accompanying plumbing under the back hatch. Those pumps gave me some issues over the years because of moisture in the rear bilge and access. I had replaced all the plumbing back there a couple years back. Some owners have added hinges to the back deck plate to make access better. Once open you do have very good access to wires, hoses etc.

There are plastic inserts for the transom compartments, which always seemed to leak a little. Replacement inserts are tough to find, so be careful with them.

I would also check the side vent windows as they tend to get beaten up a little if people go back and forth to the bow a lot and they are open. The hardware is plastic and I ended up having to replace both windows and the corresponding hardware over the years.

I removed all of the striping and logos on my boat, as I preferred the cleaner look. I also replaced the blue helm enclosure with white at the same time. Replacement striping should be easy to find. New logos may need to made at a graphic shop.

In any Grady of this area(early 2000's) and probably most other boats for that matter, you will want to have the surveyor pay attention to moisture levels in the gunnels, transom, and where the hardtop is mounted. These are areas that if not maintained properly can lead to water intrusion. In vessels of this age many of the fixtures in these areas may need to be re-bedded. There have been a couple of posts here over the years discussing moisture on other models.

The macerator pump for the holding tank is located inside of the holding tank, and known to have issues. Mine worked for a few seasons then conked out. Never replaced it as I always used a pump out, and never had the desire to open the holding tank and pull it out.

You may also want to take a good look at the fuel system, including hoses and tanks. The previous poster mentioned replacing his tanks. My tanks had been in good shape, but I did replace all fuel lines and filters/housing on my boat before I sold it. I have know of a couple of other guys with 265's who have also replaced the fuel lines etc. If you have the deck plates up, then that is the time you want to do it.

Overall access is pretty good everywhere in the boat. You can pretty much get to anything buy just unscrewing a cabinet or panel. Rigging tunnels and passages are good sized and for most things they are easy to work on.

Get a good surveyor and let him do his job, thats what you pay them for. If that boat checks out OK go for it and have fun with her. There are several 265 owners on here and who have been very helpful to me over the years.
 

SeaVee

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drbatts-thanks for that great info.

I thought about taking all the stripes and logos off-do you have a picture of your w/out the stripes/logo's?
TIA,
SeaVee
 

eppem

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Lots of solid advice and a bunch of 265 owners on the site, me too!

EPPE
 

SkunkBoat

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SeaVee Where are you at? You gonna run to the canyons?

You said you only need 200-250 mile range. I think you are going to need all 250 gals.
That extra is a good safety or it could mean you can run to the next canyon...
My 225 hp Ox66s get .9mpg cruising out and 1.1mpg cruising back (less gas/less weight).

Maybe the 200 hpdis do better. I'd love to hear about that and cruise speed/ top speed of the 200s...and of the F200s...anyone?

Anyway, you definitely want 2 tanks rather than one big one. Chances of 2 tanks going bad at once are slim.
I ran an overnight to Toms canyon from Manasquan Inlet. Burned 220gals (I brought an extra 20gals for safety. Carrying safety gas sucks... keep the 2 tanks...)


I believe the thru hull on the 265 are chrome over bronze judging by the green showing thru the chrome.

FYI, These boats want to go fast in crap ...not slow. Just amazing how a little more speed changes everything.

I agree steering can be a little squirrelly. I think I need to bleed mine and troubleshoot a little this spring. I have a hard time going straight really slow.
 

SeaVee

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I'm in Va Beach, from my dock to tip of Norfolk Canyon is about 68 miles. If we make a run to the southern, the spots (Cigar, 000's) a little less. 64 nm to the sea buoy at Oregon Inlet. I'm just worried about that tank never being used.I'll get it cleaned for sure, but I'd hate to clog up all the filters and VST's .

I've read about the "bow steer" and how to work the tabs.Funny thing, the PO says he has never used the tabs, just uses engine trim!. But, I don't think he goes off shore much.

Thinking about a trailer, anyone trailer one? Thinking 11k tandem axle, I have a 2500 Suburban to tow it with. Survey is today, I will report back
 

SkunkBoat

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when you're at Norfolk and the report is a crazy bigeye bite at Washington you'll be glad you have the range.

Canyons for me are 85nm+.

I don't trailer. $150 each way to haul to/from my field twice a year. Way cheaper than trailer and truck that could tow it. Saving that money for new motors.

I'm sure you know its 9' 7" wide...?



Oh, another "good to know" thing about 265... there is a 40 amp push button breaker in the starboard side battery compartment that will kill all your power....
 

TUNAHUNTER197

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I trailer my 265 everywhere. She sits on the side of the house and to go fishing its about a 40-50 mile tow. I had a new trailer built when I bought the boat 4 years ago. It's a aluminum tandem 5200lb torsion axle with breaks on both axles. I used to tow her with a F250 V10 gasser, she struggled up hills but pulled her without any issues. Purchased a 16' 2500 Ram and its night and day difference pulling with a diesel vs a gasser. I've towed her as far as 900 miles from SF to SD and back without any issues, you don't need a triple axle as some may suggest.

As Skunkboat stated the boat has a 9'7'' beam so to be compliant each state has different oversize load regulations, but I'll make the bet that not one police officer can spot the 1 ft difference. Some just roll the dice

Hope the survey went well, keep us updated!

As for fuel burn my HPDI's get 1.6 at 3500 RPMS and 1.4 at 4500 RPMS. Out on the left coast we are rarely able to run WOT so I can't provide an accurate fuel burn at WOT.
 

SeaVee

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Ok-Survey in hand. As far as the boat, looks like the brackets that hold one of the oil tanks is toast, needs to be replaced. Anyone done this? Can't remember if that rear access is big enough to get the tank out if necessary.Other oil tank is leaking oil into bilge, couldn't figure out where it was leaking from.
One moisture area in gunnel has me a little concerned, this was a dry stored boat it's entire life. About a 12x12 area that read in the 40's on moisture meter. Other little items that were expected for a 16 year old boat, main worry is that moisture issue
Thoughts?
 

SkunkBoat

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with the hatch removed you can remove the oil tanks and bracket.
IT WOULD BE BEST TO EMPTY THE TANKS BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE.
There is tubing, a pump, and a filter hidden on the back side. disconnecting any of it will leak oil.
Remove the filler hose and wiggle and groan and hold your back in pain...
You can get pumps $155 & filters $6 on Boats.net
That was the first repair I had to make on mine.

If the bracket is corroded then the pump is probably too.
I think people(like me) run the boat with no sealant on the hatch so they have easy access. Salt water drips right down onto tanks.


I would not worry about the gunnel other than look for possible point of intrusion and seal it. Go Fishing.
You need more gunnel rod holders...
I added 4 in the tailgate and a 45deg pointed out of each gunnel....not done yet.
 

SeaVee

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Thanks Skunkboat, gonna take another look at the moisture spots, just worried this boat has been boatel kept it's entire life, so I was surprised about the moisture spots. One more near the livewell thru hull and one more at hardtop support on front deck. but hey, it's a 16 year old boat.
 

DennisG01

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Moisture... I'm not sure I'd be too worried about the spot you mentioned. It's pretty thick there. But check into a little more, for sure. Is it near (or "downstream" of) a fitting? Anything that would have been installed into the gunwale would require a hole, of course. Given it's 17 years old, it's past it's due date for things to be resealed. BUT... you mentioned 12"x12"... your gunwale isn't that wide. What area are you referring to?

Where is your livewell thru-hull? Transom? How big of an area (and the deck spot, too)?

Oil reservoir hold down bracket: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21667&p=132799&hilit=group#p132799

Reservoir leak: Clean it up REAL well, then observe and you should see where it is leaking from. Should be very easy - especially if you have it on your workbench. After you figure it out, it would be a good idea to clean out the tank - over time the oil can sometimes get gooey and thick.