Looking at a 265-what to look for, opinions, etc

SeaVee

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Okay-straight from the survey:
"The port side hull has highly elevated moisture levels just aft of the thru hull for the bilge pump.There is also some minor delamination and what sounds like soft wet core in a 12x12 area. The area with elevated moisture readings extends from the bilge pump thru-hull area back to the transom"
"There are elevated moisture levels noted around the thru-hull for the livewell drain.This area extends from about 8" forward of the thru hull to about 2 feet aft. This area is about 12" in height. This area does not currently appear to have any delamination yet"
"The aluminum "L" cover piece that covers the outboard well where the engines are mounted has significant corrosion and has exposed some of the areas of the top section of the transom. It is recommended to replace this piece or at a minimum seal these areas to prevent moisture from entering the transom"

Thoughts?
Trying to figure out a figure to deduct from price to compensate for issues or punt
TIA,
 

Fishtales

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Hi,
I thought the hulls were 100% glass on the smaller GWs. The advertised balsa coring on the "larger hulls". Might be worth giving GW a call and see if there is coring in 265.
I'd be more concerned if so than if all glass.
 

Fishtales

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As for the aluminum bump cap, they corrode over the years. To do it right, you'd want to remove the engines, remove it and either seal or re-glass the transom. You could either glass it, or install a new piece (can get it from a local metal shop or maybe from GW. They are using a phenolic piece today and bond it as I understand.

Pretty standard stuff I'd say for the age of the hull. Water gets into most boats to some degree (regardless what people say).
 

DennisG01

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Yeah, I would of just assumed that the 265 had a solid fiberglass hull. Certainly doesn't seem big enough to warrant a balsa core when boats bigger than this still use solid glass botttoms and hulls. But... I coudl be wrong!

Where is your livewell drain?

Until we find out more about the construction, the big thing that sticks out to me is the transom cap. That "could" mean a wet transom core, however one would assume that the surveyor would have noted that. The deck moisture may be insignificant, but there's no way for us to know from where we are.

One thing to keep in mind about surveyors... some are simple a Joe Schmoe that bought a moisture reading tool. They may have no real idea how to read it or report about it.

You are wondering about making an offer and how to account for in regards to the possible fixes that may/may not be necessary. You can't do it. Not by yourself. Take it to a KNOWN good/reputable shop and get an estimate. IF it's a good shop that does these types of repairs, they will be a good ally for you. On the other hand, maybe the price that the boat is being offered at is already a very fair price, even considering the moisture (if it is, indeed, a real problem)?
 

SkunkBoat

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SeaVee said:
Thoughts?
Trying to figure out a figure to deduct from price to compensate for issues or punt
TIA,

Just my gut opinion...
dunno what he's asking but you are looking at a 16 yr old hull and 16 yr old motors.
If you are going to punt for those things, you might need to change your target model and year and price point.
I just bought a 2000 265 in October. Based on my search, I'm guessing your looking at $40k for an 02 with HPDI.
I saw one in Brick NJ just dropped to $39.9K that had been as high as $49k (brokered boat)

For your pricing comparison...
Got mine for 22K, running, in the water, as is, ready to fish, take it or leave it.
End of season, guy wanted to sell and not incur any winterizing expenses or "sale prep" expenses.
I had plenty of access to it and I did my best attempt at an in-water inspection.
Test drive was good and it sold me...at that price.
That price basically discounted the motors entirely.(and they are sought after Ox66s)
Hardtop, nice outriggers. Enclosure has a few bad zippers at the back, which I take down anyways.
Center eisenglass piece is one year old, maybe two. the rest is still clear if a little scratched.
Some cracks in the plastic headliner in the cabin. Cushions are "fishing buddy" ready, not "mother in law ready"
Refrigerator rusty. Microwave. FW works. Manual head, macerator broken. SW wash down,livewell OK
tailgate needs some cosmetic work...( I have already added rod holders)
Has Raytheon radar, Garmin 4208 with GSD22 sonar, VHF, Stereo...all work well
No electric windlass unfortunately.
Brand new fuel tanks

I expected things will break and they did. Its a boat.
On blocks now. Transom is solid. Hull sounds solid.Haven't found any issues with delamination.
Haven't done a moisture check...don't care...

Oh, best as I have been able to find out from this site and others... all of the "wide" Gradys have solid bottom, cored sides


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southernstyle995

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is the boat the one on boattrader that is in va beach, think the name is cindy mae?
 

SeaVee

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Yes, that is the boat. Based on the Survey results we have come to an agreement. Looking forward to some refresh and refurb prior to the season.
Thanks for all the good advice, and keep it up b/c I know I'll have some questions! Need a kick ass stereo with Sub, some new electronics, teaser reels, etc., etc.,
I am going to compound the hull and remove the dinged up stripes and logo-anyone know if you can still get replacements from G/W?
BTW, anyone want a good deal on a 1988/2001 SeaVee 25?
 

drbatts

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Congrats, You will love the 265. You may want to check with a graphics shop for the logo, not sure if Grady still makes them. I just ended up removing the stripes and logo on my boat when I redid the enclosure in white. I felt it just gave it a cleaner look. Just an fyi, I mounted the cutting board/bait table on the transom door, thereby putting it in a good center location, and it frees up the gunnel/side rod holders. Plus it ended up more sturdy then the rod holder mounted one.
 

SeaVee

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drbatts,

Do you have any pics of your rig? We are thinking the same thing, clean hull and white curtains. Post them or PM me with them if you prefer.
TIA
 

Sea Shift

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I highly recommend the cutting table on the back. I put in two 0 Deg rod holders that way I can slide it in and out.

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