Looking at this Grady White

[Benniebee]

Looking to purchase this 1991 Grady White Seafarer 226. I'm not very experienced with purchasing boats this will be the first one I actually own, always had buddies or family members boats to use. I am curious if I should be overly concerned with the scuffs on the bottom of this boat? I assume its from running it onto the bank or sandbar like I see so many do around here in South Fla.? I've attached a picture that shows the wear, boat is pretty cheap so I don't expect perfection but what should I look out for or check very closely. Thank you for your time.

 

[Fishtales]

Boat appears to have ablative bottom paint which will flake off and rub off with contact. Doesn't appear to be a concern.
Depending on cost, you can have a full survey, partial or skip it all together and take your chances. I'd be most concerned with water penetration in the liner and transom and basic inspection of the motor (lower unit oil, compression, maintenance record review to ensure it has been cared for). All boats of this age will need some work and some maintenance. One good thing is that all mechanical systems are fairly simple and parts readily available. You likely have some sweat equity to do, but likely not too much. If you want to get into boating, you have to start somewhere and the size of this boat is perfect. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[PointedRose]

I’d suggest having a mechanic check engine compression at least. You could do it yourself too with some relatively inexpensive tools and some YouTube vids. If it’s north of $20k a $1k survey could help you avoid some problems. If it’s cheaper then the gamble might pay off with less on the line. Either way make sure you do a water trial and open up the engine for a little bit. Should get over 30-35mph without struggling too much. Watch the gauges - temp and oil pressure. Trailer looks relatively new and the hull looks great for its age imo. Transom and engine would be top of concern for me. Fuel tank, if original, is 30 years old and overdue, which is easily $1k if you replace yourself or double if you pay someone else. If you do buy it, grease the bearings well before moving it and get a handheld temperature gauge to check the heat on the bearing after a few minutes on the road. Check the functionality of every switch. If things don’t work it’s an indication of the level of care.

 

[Benniebee]

Thank y’all very much for your info and pointers, he wants 8k and the trailer is a 2018. I did find this on the front when I went back by, just beneath the eyelet the winch hooks to. Motor is a 91 Johnson 200hp.

 

[PointedRose]

Thank y’all very much for your info and pointers, he wants 8k and the trailer is a 2018. I did find this on the front when I went back by, just beneath the eyelet the winch hooks to. Motor is a 91 Johnson 200hp.

Well that’s a half assed repair if I’ve ever seen one. Expect to spend some hours or $ on that but it’s not a bad deal really. The trailer alone is worth probably $4k

 

[seasick]

If I see that picture correctly, that is a duct tape repair and as mentioned perhaps one of the poorest fixes I have seen. Usually that tells me that the boat in general may not have been well cared for.
Your engine should be considered a write off, It's 30 years old and if it was taken care of like I suspect the hull was, it will have problems.
My bottom line is that you probably are not up to snuff to look at this boat and make the best decisions.
It may turn out to be a decent buy or the other extreme, a totally bad investment.
If you have the money to buy it but either don't have the money to fix it or don't want to spend decent money on it, you shouldn't buy it.
If you think it is what you want, please hire a surveyor and also have a mechanic examine the motor. There are so many things that you can't see that could be expensive to fix.
By the way, the hull condition below the water line in that photo doesn't look very bad at all ( but it still could have issues)

 

[PointedRose]

If I see that picture correctly, that is a duct tape repair and as mentioned perhaps one of the poorest fixes I have seen.

haha I thought it was tin foil

 

[Benniebee]

haha I thought it was tin foil

It is aluminum tape lol, maybe a step above duct tape

 

[Ky Grady]

Yeah,,,, big red flag with that repair!!! What other hidden gems are on that boat, seen or otherwise?? Pay for a survey for sure, and not one that the seller recommends. You find your own, he works for you.

 

[Paul_A]

What is your budget for owning a boat? I ask because if you don't want more than 10 grand in a boat that one may not be the one for you.

That motor might give you another five years or grenade tomorrow. So if you pull the trigger you need a plan and cash for the inevitable.

And then the rest. Wiring, switches, thru hulls, water damage, pumps, electronics etc. If you have to.pay someone to fix stuff that's not the right boat.

If you are handy and want to lean on the decades of expertise you'll find here, go for it.

 

[ddog]

The damage looks like it gets worse higher up behind the foil tape. That is a very strong part of the boat typically, crack there would concern me. You can probably see how bad it is from the inside by pulling all of the anchor rode out and then go inside the cuddy cabin and un-snap the vinyl cover that gives you access to the anchor locker from inside. If no vinyl snap cover it will take four or six screws to remove the teak board that covers it. Proper repair will require work from the inside and the outside. Whether you have the skills to wotk on the boat yourself is really the decision maker on a boat like this.

 

[wrxhoon]

Scratches on the bottom are the least of concern, they are not going to stop you from using the boat. The motor is worth zero, the hull could be worth some $$ if the transom and the stringers are not water logged. The trailer looks fine but could be on the lightweight side of things. There are lots of other things on a boat , things like fuel tank/tanks, steering, pumps , hoses, trough hulls, at that vintage they should be all brass so probably ok but hoses will need replacing. The two I can see on the port side look like they have been painted. Is the hull painted as well? Check the floor as well but that is very easy to fix unlike transom and stringers.
If you are not handy with boats and or can't do the work yourself don't bother with this boat.
If you can work on it and have the spare time ( lots of it) as long as the transom and stringers are OK buy it for $6-7 k, fix everything and buy KY's 225 4 stroke put that on yourself run the boat for a couple years and if you like the GW's, sell it and buy a much later model boat preferably from fresh water usage and no bottom paint.

 

[Fishtales]

a hack and very concerning. If the dude did this, what else did he do. I'd offer $6k and see where it goes. Can be fixed easy enough but $6.5K is max in my book.

 

[Benniebee]

Thank y’all for your input and help. I decided to pass on that one. I’m not scared to put sweat equity in, it’s just all my experience is with cars not boats. There is one other one I was looking at, 1990 Overnighter 20’ with a ‘97 Yamaha 150hp. Transom solid but a few soft spots in the floor. Asking 12k not sure how firm he is just yet. Is it a huge task to fix soft spots?

 

[seasick]

The seriousness of soft panels and their repairs depends on a few factors. If the outer shell of a panel is in decent shape and only the core is rotten, that is a lot easier to repair assuming that the panel is relatively easy to remove without having to cut it out. For example, if the floor is soft over where the gas tank is and the deck has a panel that can be removed to access the tank, that is a lot better situation as compared to a soft deck under your feet at the helm that can't be easily accessed.
A soft or spongy deck could be the coring but also could be rot in the supporting structural members and that can be a much more complicated fix. Un fortunately, it can be hard to tell without some way to 'see' underneath. Again, i have to mention that there are many areas than can be problems, especially in a 30 year old hull.
The worst scenario is that the boat could turn out to be totally shot or requires a lot of $$$ and labor to fix up. That's the worst case. The best case is that the required repairs are not too extensive or expensive.

Now if you have to mortgage your home to buy this boat, you may want to rethink the plan

Should you buy and it doesn't work out but you will still sleep at night , it can be an interesting adventure and experience.

 

[MLangley]

haha I thought it was tin foil

It's actually called speed tape and it is aluminum. We use on aircraft for minor damage until a permanent repair can be made.

 

[PointedRose]

It's actually called speed tape and it is aluminum. We use on aircraft for minor damage until a permanent repair can be made.

Would you use that on your boat for longer than a day in the water, to an area constantly subjected to water spray?
I doubt it. I mean you can see water dripping in his picture as he peels it off, and that boat is on a trailer.

 

[MLangley]

Would you use that on your boat for longer than a day in the water, to an area constantly subjected to water spray?
I doubt it. I mean you can see water dripping in his picture as he peels it off, and that boat is on a trailer.

Nope. Just telling you what it is.

 

[MLangley]

Would you use that on your boat for longer than a day in the water, to an area constantly subjected to water spray?
I doubt it. I mean you can see water dripping in his picture as he peels it off, and that boat is on a trailer.

Nope, just saying what it is.

 

[Hookup1]

Overall the boat doesn't look bad. Not enough pictures to get a good picture of the boat.

Get a surveyor - yours not his. Make sure the transom is sound. Are you handy and can learn and do the work? If not look for a boat with less problems.

Bow problem isn't pretty but surveyor can tell you if its serious or not. Same with bottom scuffs - Ask him but probably not a big deal.