Looking for input on transom cracks
- Thread starter rmf4grady
- Start date
1/4 inch metal shop did the top and lower engine bolts
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Agree with what others have posted - that cracking pattern is a tell tale sign of a wet transom and freeze/thaw. I had the same cracks appear on my 93 explorer a few years ago. See attached picture of the transom opened up. The entire transom is likely not wet, but there's enough to cause freeze/thaw cracking. Unless you get the moisture out it will continue. I don't have any experience with in-place treatments. I opted for replacement. I had mine done at Demelo's Fiberglass in Bristol, RI - Horacio does great work. He had 4 other 90's Grady's lined up for the same transom replacement. GW did a poor job with the 90's Grady's with the transom cutout and should have glassed and gelcoated the seam between the inner and outer hull. Through hull fittings are usually the other culprit. It doesn't necessarily mean the transom core is cracked as it's presenting on the gelcoat (that's the line of failure for the expansion cracking), but the transom is likely compromised and you may experience core failure at some point. It's common to replace them with coosa board now. I've seen prices in the $4k to $8k range. Wish the news was better.
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Even the enclosed transoms and the euro transoms get wet. If you remove the deck drains from the transom you will see that all grady did was to drill 2 1/2" holes through the plywood and install the fittings. The worst offender is the transom drain plug. Again the hole saw through 2 1/2" of plywood and screw in a bronze fitting for the drain. That hole is constantly submerged in bilge water with the transom acting as a huge sponge. If you notice Parker and others don't put big holes into their plywood transoms-they have solid fiberglass where the penetrations are. Grady's were designed to rot from the factory. An extra 10 minutes an $5 worth of material at build would have eliminated all these problems.
Hi All,
Update on my transom.. I have decided to have the whole thing replaced. There was too much de-lamination for me to feel comfortable just patching it up.
Transom will be replaced along with hatch covers for about 6K. I cant recommend the shop yet because the work isnt finished but I will update the forum when its done...
Update on my transom.. I have decided to have the whole thing replaced. There was too much de-lamination for me to feel comfortable just patching it up.
Transom will be replaced along with hatch covers for about 6K. I cant recommend the shop yet because the work isnt finished but I will update the forum when its done...
Ekea
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That’s a really inexpensive price. Where are you getting it done? Does that include engine removal and reinstall?
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No I removed the engine myself... Can't comment yet about the work since he hasn't finished. Will be done in about 2-3 wks and will update, with photos.
Mine should be finished this week exactly the same cracks when he cut the outer layer of gelcoat the whole entire rear came off in one piece completely delaminated , wood looked good wet in some areas but not that bad he left indoors a month letting it dry then retested drilled few holes completely shot . Been a long process i thought he said around $6 I think its going to be more . While its been indoors all winter i had them sand the bottom to the gelcoat ,epoxy ,barrier coat then bottom paint thats around $4.
$7300 for the transom , $ 4000 , sand to fiberglass 3 coats epoxy, barrier coat , two bottom paint
It sucks this had to happen but the work is significantly cheaper than a new boat. And complete peace of mind !