Macerator Pump

g0tagrip

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
407
Reaction score
31
Points
28
Location
Indialantic
Thanks ROBERTH for the tip, that worked! Just need to figure out where the water leak is now. Thanks again great tip!
 

ROBERTH

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
125
Points
63
Location
Raleigh, NC
Model
Sailfish
Great to hear it worked!
On that leak, how can water leak into the tank? I have to pump water into head manually with open seacock valve. Is your setup different? I can assume though, if the head valve is faulty, it could allow water to come into toilet, but even then, you have to pump from toilet to tank manually.
 

g0tagrip

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
407
Reaction score
31
Points
28
Location
Indialantic
My boat has the electric vacku flush system, only uses fresh water from the water tank. I think somehow I am leaking fresh water into the head system. Trying to trouble shoot today.
 

ROBERTH

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
125
Points
63
Location
Raleigh, NC
Model
Sailfish
Lining up my winter projects. Seems my old Groco still locks up occasionally and hit with hammer and it always frees up, but it is time to replace it. I will go with the external pump like you guys have done in pics. One item I am having a hard time finding is the 3/4" to 1" barbed reducer. Did you just use one that is the Gray color PVC I can get at a lowes, or were you able to find a full flow type somewhere, maybe in bronze? Assume a PVC is find for this though, just want the largest flow possible so this does not become a hang up spot.

Also, I had read somewhere where one had removed the Groco motor and all components that sit inside the tank and adds some room in the tank. Anyone know about that? I wonder if it would only give me an additional gallon of storage, might not be worth it, but this tank is already pretty small.
Seems 4 flushes it is full.
 

max366

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
300
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
East Falmouth
Model
Express 265
I used a PVC reducer and it has worked out fine- no back up. I did not even consider removing the old pump - I envisioned issues with broken bolts, trying to get a cover to fill the hole, etc just to gain a small volume increase. Not to mention a gross job!
 

ROBERTH

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
125
Points
63
Location
Raleigh, NC
Model
Sailfish
Well folks, just wanted to let you know I finished the conversion today. I had to think through it as I could not rig the same way due to no room, so had to make up some compromises, but it worked out ok. The only issue I had is the white PVC type hose is 1-1/2" and would not squeeze enought to allow a seal. It took me a while to figure out why I could not get a prime and pull fluid out. I even filled up the tank and still would not pull, so I suspected a leak. I tighted each double clamp and even stripped a couple of them trying to get a seal, but gave up and ran to the store and purchased some 1-1/2" Clear reinforced hose. It worked perfectly!
Thanks for your help on the explanations and pics as they helped quite a bit. Hope this post helps anyone else that is wanting to do this for their 25' 252G. There was no room over the water tank after I pulled the floor panel, so had to think of how to make it fit. This is the end result but before I replaced the white PVC hose.
 

Attachments

  • Macerator Replacement.jpg
    Macerator Replacement.jpg
    410.2 KB · Views: 2,209

Salinity Now

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
161
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Nice job on the upgrade!! I am having the exact same problem, I guess its time to look into doing this too.

Did you just bypass the original switch controller and tank level buttons/keypad? I assume a nice 12volt switch or button is all you need, push the button.....pump runs, simple and effective!!

Very nice.
 

ROBERTH

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
125
Points
63
Location
Raleigh, NC
Model
Sailfish
Thanks. To hook it up , all I had to do is remove the groco wires from the distribution block and connect the new shurhold pump wires in their place. All works the same from the panel. Just push the button and off she goes!
You can see this connection in the pic.
 

ROBERTH

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
125
Points
63
Location
Raleigh, NC
Model
Sailfish
Well, just because how I am wired...had to pull the Groco macerator. I was curious on several accounts.
1. What is condition of tank after 21 years?
2. Removal of pump would give me a a little more volume.
3. Is seal in good shape?
4. Are any parts of the old original Groco going to fall into the tank or come loose and damage my new pump?

So, I remove the pump. It was pretty easy to do actually. Using a heat gun to help with hose removal, it came out with no issue. I was prepared for a smell, but wow, nothing. It was very clean! I guess the regular flushing, and chemicals I use each time I use the head must pay off. (I know, I don't need to use that much chemical, but heck, it must be working).

Now, I can settle my mind as I have removed the pump and plugged the holes and re-installed. Pics to show the condition of the pump after 21 years!
 

Attachments

  • Macerator Condition after 21 years.jpg
    Macerator Condition after 21 years.jpg
    179.8 KB · Views: 468
  • Macerator Impellor View.jpg
    Macerator Impellor View.jpg
    146.7 KB · Views: 467
  • Macerator Removed Inside Tank View.jpg
    Macerator Removed Inside Tank View.jpg
    120.1 KB · Views: 467

wbdenamur

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
96
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Panama City Beach,FL
You guys are making this too complicated. You should not have to take up the floor and switch the Y valve every time you want to go from pumpout to macerator pump. Simply remove the old pump, Cut a hole in the plate where the pump was to allow a 1 1/4 pvc pickup pipe to come through, and plumb it to an external pump. The power wire from the old pump connects directly and allow a one touch pumpout without floor removal leaving everything intact.