Maintaining new engines

[wrobinson]

Even as we speak (or type) I am getting a pair of new 250 Four Strokes on the Wendy Anne. I have always been fanatical about oil changes, spark plugs, filters, etc. What I have never done is:

Fuel Additives or ring free -(I am planning on using thr ring free from the get go on these engines)

Removing the cowlings and spraying the motors with anti-corrision

Using Salt away when I flush the motors.

I want these engines to last a long time so I would like some opinions about what is productive and what is a waste of time in terms of preventitive maintenence.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tuxedospike]

Flushing the F250

If you intend to flush those F250's with Salt-Away, I'd get a little advice from the dealer if it ( Salt-Away ) can be used on the non-running hose flusher provided by Yamaha. I say this because I, like you, believed in a good earmuff fresh water flush after salt water use. I can't do it at my marina...they have enough pressure to clean and flush about two dozen boats at the same time but not enough to earmuff one F250 without going to "over-heat" buzzer after a few minutes. A couple of other Yamaha drivers tell me that they have tried different locations (home, other marinas) to use the earmuff flusher and have had no success. One said that he had tie-wraped the flusher on ( the water pressure blew it off) and the engine still went to overheat in a few minutes. My dealer tells me that the provided hose-bib will flush the engine (non-running) correctly...time will tell.

 

[tuxedospike]

Engine breakin

Pardon the second post but I've just gone through the initial period with a pair of F250's....I think you should gather some input on using anything that is a fuel or oil additive during the first 100 hours. Those babies need to seat-in (another way to say break-in or seat-in is "wear-in") Too much or too good an additive and the rings won't seat. I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night but I did put my son ( my mechanic) through two.5 years of Marine Mechanics Inst. He also put me onto Amsoil (after 100 hrs.) and the results are amazing....it is the best lubricant for any marine engine. My outboards (five of them) all run Amsoil in both crankcase and in the lower foot....results ..trouble free operation.

 

[jehines3]

I bought the permenant mount quick flushers from Boatersworld for $13.99 each. I hated flushing the motors because you had to thread a non swivel coupler end of the hose in. Now I leave one quick connect from the kit on the dock and one on the fresh water sink hose, and both the motors have the other ends installed. If I'm not at the dock I use my onboard tanks to flush. The only thing I did not like is that you can not aim the pee stream like the fitting that was on my Johnsons.

My last boat I kept in a field with unpredicable water supply due to the shutoff being in a pool area and locked at night. I bought a 5 gallon winterize kit and filled it with fresh water and a cap full of salt away before leaving for the boat in the morning and left it in the truck.

I'd suggest a flush kit like this and do a fresh water flush every trip if you boat in salt:
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/367900057.htm

If it is easy you will do it.

As far as salt away I bought the starter kit with the mixer and do it about every 5th trip.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/176970846.htm

 

[Brad1]

Anytime I get a new (or used) boat motor, motorcycle, car, truck, etc. I obtain not only a user manual, but also a shop manual and I strictly follow the maintenance schedules and procedures outlined in the manuals.

On any Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki product I have ever owned (maybe a couple dozen or so), I have found it imperative to use a torque wrench. Especially when installing steel threaded fasters into threaded cast aluminum. Just a couple extra Nm can strip a thread. Those brands seem to use a soft grade of aluminum for some of their cast parts.

 

[wrobinson]

Thanks for the tips

 

[GulfGrady]

I bought the permenant mount quick flushers from Boatersworld for $13.99 each. I hated flushing the motors because you had to thread a non swivel coupler end of the hose in. Now I leave one quick connect from the kit on the dock and one on the fresh water sink hose, and both the motors have the other ends installed. If I'm not at the dock I use my onboard tanks to flush. The only thing I did not like is that you can not aim the pee stream like the fitting that was on my Johnsons.

My last boat I kept in a field with unpredicable water supply due to the shutoff being in a pool area and locked at night. I bought a 5 gallon winterize kit and filled it with fresh water and a cap full of salt away before leaving for the boat in the morning and left it in the truck.

I'd suggest a flush kit like this and do a fresh water flush every trip if you boat in salt:
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/367900057.htm

If it is easy you will do it.

As far as salt away I bought the starter kit with the mixer and do it about every 5th trip.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/176970846.htm

I will bet you don't own Yamaha's

 

[jehines3]

You would win that bet, I don't own Yamaha's...why?

he obviously would need the yamaha flush version found at:

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/367900057.htm

jh

 

[HMBJack]

Hoever - that quick connect flusher is for two strokes - yes?

To install something like that on a four stroke - you need some kind of garden hose Tee fitting. I have an F225 and anyone with a F200, F225 or F250 knows what I'm talking about here.

When connecting or re-attaching the flush fitting to my F225, I always worry that I will lose the "O" ring. Having a quick connect like this would help but I have never seen a Tee for garden hose threads.

Have you? Any advice or comment on this?

 

[Capt Khaos]

Yamaha Flushing

Yamaha 4 stroke owners...you can buy what you need at Home Depot. Melnor is the brand name they sell (they're green) but they are identical to the orange colored fittings they sell at Boaters World. The great thing about these fittings is that they shut the flow of water off when you disconnect. Therefor you can have your wash down hose with a quick disconnect nozzle...pull off the nozzle (no flow)...connect it to your flush hose on the side of the motor...reconnect the nozzle after flushing and NO wasted water. They sell several different kits at Home Depot.

 

[jehines3]

Do you have to pull the lid to flush the new yamaha 4 stokes? jh

 

[Capt Khaos]

No, you don't have to remove the cowling. The flushing hose is below the cowling on the starboard side of the motor (at least on my F250). I have a 228 Seafarer with the motor on a bracket. It is difficult to reach the hose but the quick disconnect makes it bearable.

Cheers,
Dan

 

[HMBJack]

Capt. Khaos,

I don't understand how you can use a quick connect on your F250 for flushing. Can you clarify?

I ask because, when in use, there is coolant water flow through the flush fitting. Only way to get a quick connect on it is to make some sort of Tee (as I describe above). But even with the tee, the water must, should, only flow into the female end of the garden hose fitting on your F250 (not into the male garden hose fitting).

So the "tee" idea won't work in my opinion. Curious how your set-up works. Thanks.

 

[Capt Khaos]

I simply threaded the male side of the QD onto the hose on the motor and the female side onto the fitting on the motor itself. You have to disconnect the motor hose using the QD and couple your dock hose (also a female QD) to it. When you're done flushing, disconnect the dock hose and recouple the hose on the motor. It's not perfect but it IS a lot easier than threading and unthreading and possibly losing the washer (and my glasses!) all while leaning awkwardly over the stern.

Good Luck,
Dan

On re-reading your question I must ask are you running the engine while flushing? My boat stays in the water so I tilt it up then flush. The manual says you should not run the engine while flushing.

 

[HMBJack]

Captain Kaos - Thanks. I think I understand your set-up now.
I'll have to try that - anything to make the flush easier is a winner in my book.

To your question, I of course do not run the engine when flushing. I tilt my F225 about 30 degrees, attach the hose and I typically use salt away for 30 seconds after a good rinse. Like you, I have a 228G and love the thing.
Mine's a 2006. Going out tomorrow to pull 8 crab pots 9 miles offshore. Want to get my Christmas Crab!

Cheers,
Jack