Maintenance guilt

[seasick]

If you look at some of may old posts, I mention that in general I do certain service when needed or when the guilt becomes too much to bear.
Well I am there
I dropped my SX150 lower unit and set it up in my shop to do a water pump. pressure/vacuum test and to see why my yamaha speedo stopped working (even after I ran a cleaning brush into the pilot hole.

In no particular order: It tool a good hour to clear the pilot hole. I had to clear it from the inside fitting using a brass wire and a large syringe filled with water to apply both pressure and vacuum to clear the hole. The blockage was in the base of the channel that the pilot hole is drilled into. The crud (all sand based) was like concrete and when it finally cleared using the syringe, I got a bath of black slimy sandy crap. The woosh was quite satisfying though.

The LU passed the vacuum/pressure test and the drained oil looked new. However after removing the water pump and the drive shaft dust cover I saw that the retaining circular spring on the upper oil seal was in pieces. Fortunately, the bearing carrier came out without a lot of grief and I was able to drive out the two seals. Add those to the parts list.
Shift shaft seal looks good.

The pump outer housing is fine and to my surprise, the metal pump cover and wear plate were in really good shape, The impeller had very little wear but did have a pretty decent set. The woodruff key as is often the case was stuck solidly and I had to do the Dremmel abrasive disk trick to get it out.

Looking at the parts, I tried to remember when I last rebuilt the water pump. I keep logs on my boats and when I finally found the old books, I saw that I last changed the water pump in March.......OF 2010!!!!
So who knows, in my case my pump ran for 9 seasons. OK, I do keep an eye on the telltale just to be safe but I know some folks change some of these parts every season or two.

I wonder when my guilt will kick in for the O2 cleaning and the VST screen

 

[Topjimmy]

did not change a water pump since 2010?? AHHHHH that ain't noth'in I finally changed mine on my 1994 Yamaha 150 saltwater last year after 18 years!! (2000) and it still looked good having only been in fresh water all that time helped,I am the original owner of my 192 Tourney and this was only the 2nd time I have done it TOUGH MOTORS!

 

[seasick]

I feel better and can now sleep tonight.
Yes the SX motor one of the best ever

 

[family affair]

I've often thought the annual maintenance routine on the water pump was mostly for the benefit of the marina and manufacturer, not the owner. We only run 30-40 hours per year, so going 3-5 years is no big deal IMO. Running WOT constantly or in nasty water would have me do this more often.
BTW, the grease zerk behind the prop, how often and how much grease do you use?
Also, what lower unit lube do you use? I had a very minor leak last year and had the entire lower unit resealed. The dealer used Yamalube. Looks awful after very little use (I know it's normal) and stinks to high hell. Since you said yours looks like new, you can't be using Yamalube.

 

[kirk a]

I've often thought the annual maintenance routine on the water pump was mostly for the benefit of the marina and manufacturer, not the owner. We only run 30-40 hours per year, so going 3-5 years is no big deal IMO. Running WOT constantly or in nasty water would have me do this more often.
BTW, the grease zerk behind the prop, how often and how much grease do you use?
Also, what lower unit lube do you use? I had a very minor leak last year and had the entire lower unit resealed. The dealer used Yamalube. Looks awful after very little use (I know it's normal) and stinks to high hell. Since you said yours looks like new, you can't be using Yamalube.

I've heard that it is as much to ensure the lower unit CAN come off when service is required than it is about changing pump/impeller annually. But once the work to drop the LU is done, why not do the impeller while in there?

 

[family affair]

Probably sound advice if you keep your boat in the water. I don't.

 

[seasick]

I've often thought the annual maintenance routine on the water pump was mostly for the benefit of the marina and manufacturer, not the owner. We only run 30-40 hours per year, so going 3-5 years is no big deal IMO. Running WOT constantly or in nasty water would have me do this more often.
BTW, the grease zerk behind the prop, how often and how much grease do you use?
Also, what lower unit lube do you use? I had a very minor leak last year and had the entire lower unit resealed. The dealer used Yamalube. Looks awful after very little use (I know it's normal) and stinks to high hell. Since you said yours looks like new, you can't be using Yamalube.

Interesting question. I grease all zerk fittings every season. I pump grease until I see it ooze somewhere and then I wipe the excess and the fitting if I can get ti it with a rag. II keep one or two zerks on hand just in case one breaks off (which has happened)
I have only used Yamalube LU oil. I have to say, my oil looks great. My nose sort of stopped working a while back That has its advantages and disadvantages. I can't comment on the odor exactly.

 

[seasick]

I've heard that it is as much to ensure the lower unit CAN come off when service is required than it is about changing pump/impeller annually. But once the work to drop the LU is done, why not do the impeller while in there?

In those 10 years I have not dropped the LU. The first time I dropped it, the bolts were really tight and binding. It's a bit scary to loosen them. For reinstall, I wire brush the threads and apply a little antiseize goop. My LU came right off this time. I boat in salt water , boat is slipped and the LU is completely out of the water when docked.

 

[family affair]

Interesting question. I grease all zerk fittings every season. I pump grease until I see it ooze somewhere and then I wipe the excess and the fitting if I can get ti it with a rag. II keep one or two zerks on hand just in case one breaks off (which has happened)
I have only used Yamalube LU oil. I have to say, my oil looks great. My nose sort of stopped working a while back That has its advantages and disadvantages. I can't comment on the odor exactly.

LOL! My nose isn't what it used to be either. Thankfully I have my wife to help in that department!
What color was your oil when you drained it? Mine was black. From what I have read that is normal for yamalube.
As for the grease on the zerk behind the prop, my concern is putting in too much and damaging the seal.

 

[DennisG01]

In those 10 years I have not dropped the LU. The first time I dropped it, the bolts were really tight and binding. It's a bit scary to loosen them. For reinstall, I wire brush the threads and apply a little antiseize goop. My LU came right off this time. I boat in salt water , boat is slipped and the LU is completely out of the water when docked.

I am not so lucky. I waited a few years (after purchasing the boat... but impeller was recently changed before I bought it) to drop the lower. No go. The driveshaft is seized into the crank. My last recourse will be to cut the driveshaft. Lesson learned... in the future, drop it once a year and grease the driveshaft splines where they enter the crank. Luckily, I have a spare lower unit.

I use Merc's Hi-Performance synthetic lower unit gear oil. It can cope with some water intrusion (should that happen), as opposed to "regular" oil. The Merc stuff is a GL4 gear oil, which is recommended for these lower's. Some synthetic stuff is GL5, which is not recommended.

 

[wspitler]

I believe the Yamaha LU oil is hypoid which causes the smell. Regular YamaLube is GL-4 and the HD is GL-5. Interestingly, the Yamalube GL-4 oil that drains out of my port F250 is always darker than my starboard one. Starboard looks new when it is drained, port is not black, but darker. A Yamaha tech told me he sees that as well with the counter rotating engines. My unproven theory is that the thrust bearing location is different, maybe causing more wear, but who knows! Yamaha says not to use the HD oil (GL-5) on the V6s and smaller as they have bronze bushings and the additives in the GL=5 will corrode those. Maybe that causes the black oil.

 

[family affair]

The black oil has something to do with the additive yamaha uses. The shearing of the oil causes it to become black. Wspitler, your assumption is likely true.
Where's Doc Stressor? He likely could give us the best answer.

 

[RussGW270]

Seriously? And I have been told by folks, "you should always change out the water pump when you do the impeller.."

I feel better now, although I have a new pump for each in the shop lol

R

 

[Willy-C]

I’m guilty of not changing water pumps too soon but I like to drop mine to at least get that upper drive spline greased. I’ve seen one too many horror stories about the splines not greased and being a bugger to drop LU. Although mine is a Yammy I’ve read some Zukes need it yearly.

 

[SkunkBoat]

My main reason for changing impellers every year or two is that it forces you to drop the lower unit. You wait too long on a saltwater boat and you will be snapping bolts or cracking housings.
I've never seen a BAD impeller. I throw away good ones. Thats the point of maintenance.

with these ox66s I have been cleaning the O2 sensor every season. (Have a new gasket on hand) They haven't been terrible but it was a worthwhile thing to do.
I change plugs every season even though they are good.( on my 4 stroke I skipped a year a couple times)

I change T stats because it forces me to loosen bolts and open that up and clean out the salt goo. (have gaskets on hand)
I have found a few that were "failed open" over the years.

The VST filters and the pressure regulator filter and injector cleaning will be on a "evry couple year" schedule now. If you have'nt done it in 10 years...do it this winter.
If the VST gasket wasn't $24 I'd probably inspect more often.

 

[Fishtales]

water pumps every 3 years for me. cheap insurance.

 

[Fishtales]

lower unit, plugs and engine oil yearly. 20+ years 6 engines, never a breakdown or issue. the season is short enough in the NE so do everything you can to keep her in the water.

 

[seasick]

My main reason for changing impellers every year or two is that it forces you to drop the lower unit. You wait too long on a saltwater boat and you will be snapping bolts or cracking housings.
I've never seen a BAD impeller. I throw away good ones. Thats the point of maintenance.

with these ox66s I have been cleaning the O2 sensor every season. (Have a new gasket on hand) They haven't been terrible but it was a worthwhile thing to do.
I change plugs every season even though they are good.( on my 4 stroke I skipped a year a couple times)

I change T stats because it forces me to loosen bolts and open that up and clean out the salt goo. (have gaskets on hand)
I have found a few that were "failed open" over the years.

The VST filters and the pressure regulator filter and injector cleaning will be on a "evry couple year" schedule now. If you have'nt done it in 10 years...do it this winter.
If the VST gasket wasn't $24 I'd probably inspect more often.

Regarding the VST, each end of season, I drain the contents of the VST tank into a glass jar to loo for issues, not so much water but particles. I leave the tank empty over the winter..
It is a pain to open that tank up so my approach is to monitor performance, looking for the signs of VST clogging. And yes, that gasket is over priced and is also often a challenge to install. It always seems to be a few millimeters too big.
If I had a newer power plant, I would perform more frequent inanimate and services but my SX motor is going into its 20 season and I lean more towards the "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

My Mercs on the other hand, require much more frequent service

 

[wspitler]

Since the VST is not pressurized, but vented and the fuel level is well below the gasketed seam, I have reused the old gasket if it looks reasonable. No problems with leaks as the fuel will only get up that high if it is sloshed. A little silicon grease seems to work well. Still a pain to remove the screws the first time. Draining annually is a great idea.

 

[Ky Grady]

I'm probably the minority here, but I fully service my motor yearly. Change out impeller, plugs, thermostats, oil, filter, gear lube, fuel filter and separator, grease fittings. I've done it this way for years, motor is always fresh and ready to go in the spring.