Major failure from rot and delamination

Jrspawn

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After reading some other topics... I got thinking today...how many major failures(boats sinking, transoms ripping off, etc..) from delamination and rot have you guys ever seen out of Gradys? I have heard of Many many boats having rot/delamination in the sides and bad/soft/wet transoms.... But I can't say I've ever seen an actual major failure from these things. Don't get me wrong, I know its not right and asking for issues.... but very curious of how serious it actually is.

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seasick

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When I was looking for a 208, in 2006, I came across one and I had it surveyed. During the survey when the transom was tapped, the surveyor looked at me and asked if I wanted him to continue the survey. I realized what he was telling me and I walked away.
 
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family affair

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My Dad's Overnighter transom flexed so badly that I was amazed the engine didn't snap off. I had no idea fiberglass could flex so much. So yes, it can happen, but I think many catch the problem before it becomes a catastrophe.
 

CharlieBeard

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Recently I was asking myself the same thing. If my transom was soft in spots, I'd love to send it until I was ready to repower. But I'm pretty sure I'd have one eye on the transom whenever in any weather. And my wife would never step on the boat if she had an inkling of the situation.
 

Mustang65fbk

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When I was looking for a 208, in 2006, I came across one and I had it surveyed. During the survey when the transom was tapped, the surveyor looked at me and asked if I wanted him to continue the survey. I realized what he was telling me and I walked away.
Do you remember what year the boat was?
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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There was that 27 footer in Puerto Rico last summer that sunk or capsized after it was repowered with bigger Zukes. I don't know of this counts or not . It was a strange situation. Saw it on one of the Facebook GW groups .
 

Mustang65fbk

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As others have stated before in previous threads... it seems like if you asked the question on The Hull Truth then the consensus would be that all of our boats are lucky to still be above the water as well as that we don't fall through the floor just from walking on it. I think the reasoning for that, like most things said or heard on the internet, is because of rumor, speculation or that their dad's, coworkers, uncle's best friend who owned one back in 1986 had an issue with his boat. Which somehow makes that person an expert on Grady White's as well other boats in general, and that because it happened to that one boat that it'll for some reason happen to all of them. I've heard multiple times and from multiple different sources that GW switched over from marine grade plywood to a company called Greenwood XL in 1997, which is supposed to be "rot free". Now, I think we all know that this isn't exactly the case as there have been some 1997 and newer boats that have had to have their transoms replaced or severely repaired. That being said, it seems like a rather small amount when compared to boats pre - 1997 that have the marine grade plywood in them. I don't, nor do I think that maybe anyone except GW, know the real numbers as to how many boats have had these issues. But yes, I think it's more than just a bit slightly over-exaggerated, especially by those that have never owned a GW before. I had a surveyor go out and look at one 228 Seafarer for me, I think it was a 2002 or 2003, and he said that there was some water/moisture readings on his reader near the bow cleats as well as in the transom. But he said that the boat felt and sounded solid as were the floorboards when walking on it, without any sagging or flexing. My current boat is a 2004 GW 228 Seafarer and it is a very dry, solid and structurally sound boat, which I'm sure mostly depends on prior usage as well as how well the previous owner maintained the boat.
 
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CapeCodguy

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Buyer beware of GW transoms. I owned, for 20 years, a 248 Voyager, and the surveyor failed the transom for moisture. I maintained the boat myself and I couldn't believe the transom was defective, but it was weak. GW said they used marine grade plywood, but it still showed 30% moisture, 10% is acceptable. GW said that they had no responsibility. The replacement cost was $ 9000, I wholesaled the boat taking the loss. Otherwise, it was a great boat and I kept it in top condition.
 

Mustang65fbk

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I don't remember exactly but I am pretty sure it was late 1990s, maybe 98 or 99. Ended up with a 2001 hull.
I was just curious if it was a hull prior to 1997 when I believe they used just standard marine grade plywood as opposed to the Greenwood XL. I've seen a few hulls that have had issues even with the Greenwood XL but not very many.
 

greauxpete

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I had to repair my fuel hatch due to moisture intrusion. Not hard at all (in fact it was fun).
I am in the process of repairing the fish box hatch. However, this is not part of the primary structure so not really relevant - just a side note.
When the transom eventually shows signs of rot, I will rebuild it myself. In the mean time, I will do everything to prevent water intrusion in the
transom by making sure the transom cap, engine bolts and other penetrations stay sealed. I also have plans to coat the tops of the stringers
(inside the bilge) with epoxy resin to reduce the rate of moisture intrusion.
 

PNW_Drifter

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Saw a video on qualified captain, guy ripped transom off big grady with twins. Ran it up on a mud flat going fast. Probably had existing rot. engines seperated and flipped back 180 degrees. Euro transom. Shit happens.
 

Mustang65fbk

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I've always wondered how many of the "factory transom issues" have actually been because of problems that were the fault of the factory as opposed to the actual owners themselves. I'm sure that in the 60 years or so that Grady White has been around that there have been more than a handful of times where the employees forgot to do something or didn't do something correctly and was actually their fault. That being said, I have to imagine that the majority of the time that the issue was likely the fault of the owner not properly maintaining the boat, neglecting it in some sort of way or leaving it in water year round. Just like anything else in life, how much of it is "manufacturer error" as compared to how much is "user error"? And/or "user neglect/laziness"?
 

PNW_Drifter

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All it takes is water getting in. I'm sure some production boats are doomed from the factory (all brands). One hole not bedded properly is all it would take. I strengthened mine with 1708 Glass and epoxy while I was painting my engine bracket and scrubbing/inspectin every inch of the transom. One of my bracket bolts was sunken in a bit more than others so I ground it all out and put back 3 layers of glass. Now also I always overdrill/fill any hole I drill in my transom with epoxy. luckily all the wood chips have been dry so far. I'm always afraid some black damp chips will come out.

My swimstep and one of my hatches is totally water logged but still strong enough to use. So water got in there from flexing cracking over the years.
 

Fishtales

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I've always wondered how many of the "factory transom issues" have actually been because of problems that were the fault of the factory as opposed to the actual owners themselves. I'm sure that in the 60 years or so that Grady White has been around that there have been more than a handful of times where the employees forgot to do something or didn't do something correctly and was actually their fault. That being said, I have to imagine that the majority of the time that the issue was likely the fault of the owner not properly maintaining the boat, neglecting it in some sort of way or leaving it in water year round. Just like anything else in life, how much of it is "manufacturer error" as compared to how much is "user error"? And/or "user neglect/laziness"?
I'm sure some issues have been due to incorrect installation of underwater lights, transducers and other add on items. I'm sure some is workmanship at the factory as well.
That being said, I believe the biggest contributor is design related, specifically the hull/liner joint and the material selected (wood, fairing material and caulk) in the design process. The hull liner joint is loaded with fairing material prior to the liner being dropped on the hull. It is then caulked with a bang plate and motor well drain flaps that are screwed on through the fiberglass into the core.