This item was discussed once before but I can't seem to find the answer. We have a Sailfish 272 with a marine head/macerator. The waste tank indicator is a series of lights -green, yellow and red. No matter he volume in the tank, all three lights are always lit. Is this a mechanical or electrical issue? We'll start spring prep in a couple of weeks (we hope) and if we have to pull the head and work below, much better to do that with the boat on the trailer next to our shop. Also, someone mentioned a liquid chemical product (not deodorizer) to keep the macerator from clogging. Does anyone know the name of the product and where it's sold. I asked at the local marine supply store and the guy just gave me a blank look.
marine head macerator question
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Fishtales
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Check the web. I recall it being manufactured by Groco (www.groco.net).
I had that indicator in my last boat. As I recall it is a mechanical float (GM-50) that gets gunk on it and doesn't work properly. If you go to the website, you will see why. Two floats that the gunk adheres to.
If you fill the tank 2/3 with water and then put cleaner in and take the boat out for a good ride a couple of times (pump between runs), you will likely break down the gunk and it likely will work again.
The good news is that this does not hamper operation, you just don't know the level which can be a bad thing...
I had that indicator in my last boat. As I recall it is a mechanical float (GM-50) that gets gunk on it and doesn't work properly. If you go to the website, you will see why. Two floats that the gunk adheres to.
If you fill the tank 2/3 with water and then put cleaner in and take the boat out for a good ride a couple of times (pump between runs), you will likely break down the gunk and it likely will work again.
The good news is that this does not hamper operation, you just don't know the level which can be a bad thing...
As mentioned, most likely a gunked up sending unit -
I could only find the entire assembly as a unit for sale-
Something like $300-
I could only find the entire assembly as a unit for sale-
Something like $300-
If the macerator still works things aren't that bad. There's a flange on the top that holds the sensors. You can try to put some cleaner in the tank and go for a ride to work the rings free. The other option is flushing some de-oderizer and poping the top and cleaning them off. If you're still pumping, that would be my LAST option.
I wanted to replace the entire assembly in my 282 with another tank monitoring system to avoid paying Groco's outrageous price for what I considor a piece of junk, anyone look into RV tank sensors?
Fishtales
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One more thing...
The website indicates that the sending unit can be removed and cleaned.
I think you need a close pin for your nose and a bucket to drop put it in after removal so you don't drop any shite in the cabin...
Be sure to wrap the threads with plumbers teflon tape before installing or you will have a perm nasty air freshner....
The website indicates that the sending unit can be removed and cleaned.
I think you need a close pin for your nose and a bucket to drop put it in after removal so you don't drop any shite in the cabin...
Be sure to wrap the threads with plumbers teflon tape before installing or you will have a perm nasty air freshner....
On my sensor the extremely thin wires corroded at the point where they enter the tank and there is no way to repair them, The Macerator pump seems to be frozen and I have to be pumped out. There has to be a unit that is better than the overpriced Groco.
I have the same problem on my 98 272.
Groco through Lewis Marine Supply price is over $400. The sending unit is a 3 prong sensor with the prongs getting eroded over time causing it to fail. Good idea but short life. I just pump mine out often.
If I find one cheap at a flea market I may buy it.
Groco through Lewis Marine Supply price is over $400. The sending unit is a 3 prong sensor with the prongs getting eroded over time causing it to fail. Good idea but short life. I just pump mine out often.
If I find one cheap at a flea market I may buy it.
http://www.cruisingsolutions.com/tankmonitors.asp
Above is a external tank monitor I plan to use to replace my existing Groco, I hope this can help someone else.
Above is a external tank monitor I plan to use to replace my existing Groco, I hope this can help someone else.
I have a 1998 272 and looking to replace the entire assembly.
I do not want a macerator pump inside a tank, has anyone for a change out for this?
I do not want a macerator pump inside a tank, has anyone for a change out for this?
An external macerator is completely doable. Don't think of it as "re-writing the book" - many, many other boats have macerators outside of the holding tank. It's really just as straight forward as it sounds. Route hose from tank to macerator (installed in your location of choice), then from macerator to seacock. The one thing I'm not sure of, and maybe someone else can answer this, is how well the tank will be evacuated with the internal pump still in place? If not, you'd then install a dip tube.
Keep in mind:
-- That anything below the waterline should have double clamps, and the worm gears should be rotated 180* to each other.
-- Use stranded wire for the wiring - ideally, "tinned", marine wire.
-- Electrical connections should be crimped and, ideally, waterproofed. Heat shrink butt connectors are fantastic. DO NOT use solder unless you are VERY skilled at it - otherwise you will create a weak point inside the sheathing that will eventually break/fail. Even so, the solder joint should then be supported on either side of the joint to eliminate flexing.
Keep in mind:
-- That anything below the waterline should have double clamps, and the worm gears should be rotated 180* to each other.
-- Use stranded wire for the wiring - ideally, "tinned", marine wire.
-- Electrical connections should be crimped and, ideally, waterproofed. Heat shrink butt connectors are fantastic. DO NOT use solder unless you are VERY skilled at it - otherwise you will create a weak point inside the sheathing that will eventually break/fail. Even so, the solder joint should then be supported on either side of the joint to eliminate flexing.