Marine survey

[Saltyone]

I'm looking at a 265 in Washington state. I've used the https://www.marinesurvey.org/ and spoke with a couple of guys that service the area the boat is located in.

Both guys seem knowledgeable but seem to be more old school train of thought. Using mallets and golf balls to "listen" to the hull/transom. One specifically said he doesn't use moisture meters, that they aren't reliable. Any thoughts about this?

Anyone here from Washington that can give a recommendation of a surveyor that is willing to travel a bit? The boat is located a few hours west of Seattle.

Thanks

 

[Belting1313]

I’m from Portland and bought a Grady this fall in Port Angeles. I looked for a good surveyor but they were booked weeks out so I did the survey and the sea trial. All is good and I’m happy. Good luck and I hope it works out.

 

[Fishtales]

Old school is fine if they are experienced. I would not hesitate to utilize such a person. I don't believe moisture meters are accurate so I'm biased.

 

[Ekea]

i have heard that moisture meters can not be used on bottom painted areas due to the metal in them.

 

[seasick]

i have heard that moisture meters can not be used on bottom painted areas due to the metal in them.

It depends on the particular paint. If you want to be certain that readings are true, you need to sand off the bottom paint, down to the gelcoat I am not sure about barrier coat though.

 

[Saltyone]

I scheduled the survey on the 2000 265 express. I made sure to mention to him about my concerns with the transom, as I know that is a problem area with the aluminum cap corroding and getting moisture in there. I'm also going to mention to him about the fuel tanks, as I'm not sure if that's a normal area for them to inspect.

Are there other areas of concern I should have him pay close attention to on that model?

Thanks

 

[Mustang65fbk]

From what I've heard, and I admittedly don't have very much experience using moisture meters, is that the ones with the pins on them are pretty accurate but obviously a bit more invasive. The ones that don't have the pins on them I've heard aren't quite as accurate, especially if you buy a cheap one. The one linked below was something I was looking at getting on Amazon, it's $40 and some change but it only detects up to 3/4" deep, which if the moisture is near the outside part of the hull then you'd probably be ok, but if not then it might not detect it? For $40 it doesn't seem like a terrible idea to buy one and have for boat inspections or other projects, but I don't think I'd want to bet my life savings on the results of one, if that makes sense. Good luck on the inspection, let us know how it turns out.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET140-Non-Destructive-Detection/dp/B07SZX8QXH/ref=zg_bs_553270_sccl_5/141-4632614-5897159?pd_rd_i=B07SZX8QXH&th=1

 

[SkunkBoat]

I scheduled the survey on the 2000 265 express. I made sure to mention to him about my concerns with the transom, as I know that is a problem area with the aluminum cap corroding and getting moisture in there. I'm also going to mention to him about the fuel tanks, as I'm not sure if that's a normal area for them to inspect.

Are there other areas of concern I should have him pay close attention to on that model?

Thanks

I have a 2000 265. Things I've had to do over the last 5 years
replace the piece of crap 40A red button breaker
replace a bad battery switch.
replace bilge pumps and/or float switches
replace scuppers and hoses( scary rusty & old)
replace fuse panels in electronics box and under dash( green corrosion)
recore the deck hatches over tank and bilge
repair the tailgate
replace the washdown pump and the livewell pump(twice)
repair the rear cross bar on the hardtop
Replace enclosure.
Replaced the dash switches with all new panel.
Replaced the Seastar helm.
Replaced coaming pads.

Fuel tanks were replace before I bought mine. I would expect you would need new tanks if they are original.
Expect some cracks in the plastic headliner in the cabin.
Expect the Groco waste tank/pump to not work.
Expect the FW tank/pump to be clogged by the end of the season.
Expect some chips in the edges of all of the hinged hatches.
Expect some spider cracks.

If at all possible, take up the deck hatches to inspect the bilge and tanks and washdown pump.

Do a search here on tags 265 express.

I've repowered and done a lot of electronics upgrades and repairs

GREAT BOAT!
good luck.

 

[Saltyone]

I have a 2000 265. Things I've had to do over the last 5 years
replace the piece of crap 40A red button breaker
replace a bad battery switch.
replace bilge pumps and/or float switches
replace scuppers and hoses( scary rusty & old)
replace fuse panels in electronics box and under dash( green corrosion)
recore the deck hatches over tank and bilge
repair the tailgate
replace the washdown pump and the livewell pump(twice)
repair the rear cross bar on the hardtop
Replace enclosure.
Replaced the dash switches with all new panel.
Replaced the Seastar helm.
Replaced coaming pads.

Fuel tanks were replace before I bought mine. I would expect you would need new tanks if they are original.
Expect some cracks in the plastic headliner in the cabin.
Expect the Groco waste tank/pump to not work.
Expect the FW tank/pump to be clogged by the end of the season.
Expect some chips in the edges of all of the hinged hatches.
Expect some spider cracks.

If at all possible, take up the deck hatches to inspect the bilge and tanks and washdown pump.

Do a search here on tags 265 express.

I've repowered and done a lot of electronics upgrades and repairs

GREAT BOAT!
good luck.

Thank you. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so sounds like most of the stuff you've done is in my wheelhouse if needed. It doesn't sound like pulling the fuel tanks to replace is a difficult thing to do. I see a place that sells the pair for $3200. Though I'm wondering if those are something that an experienced aluminum welder could fabricate?

 

[Saltyone]

Will the surveyor have access without having to pull the deck hatch to inspect the fuel tanks, or does that need to be pulled up?

 

[Pat Hurley]

Most experienced surveyors will use a combination of tools (moisture meter(s) ) and a phenolic hammer to verify any high moisture readings. Some transoms can be tricky to read. However if it is swolt, it's wet. Some can be wet, but not rotted .... yet.

 

[Meanwhile]

Good luck with your purchase. I'm out in Warren.