marlin 280 vs. marlin 300

[chub2000]

i am looking to buy a Marlin and i found a 1990 280 marlin with new F225's and i am comparing it to a 2000 300 Marlin with ox66's with 500 hours. The price is almost even. How does the ride compare of the older 280 hull to the newer 300 hull ? Are the motors more important than the hull ?

any help would be appreciated.

 

[Tuna Man]

As you probably know, back in 1990 there were no F225 engines. However, there were V8 outboards around that time (Evinrude made them in 88 and 89 I believe) that were pretty heavy. That being said, I doubt you'll have to worry about the weight of the F225 hanging off the back of that 1990 boat (or any year marlin for that matter).

The Yamaha 250 EFI is considered one of the most reliable large outboards ever made by many. However, they were never known for being skimpy on fuel or 2 cycle oil. With 500 hours of light use (50 hours per year) I would not worry much, but I would still have a mechanic do an inspection including a compression check.

I have been on the 28' and the 30' version of the marlin many times. I find the ride of the 30' to be better as the wetted surface is roughly 2' longer (changed in 1998 I think). However, I suspect that the longer surface also adds to the weight and slows the boat slightly as a result while consuming more fuel. If you go to the Grady website you can view all of the catalogs with the specs for each year. I think you will find that the Marlin gained weight every five years since 1989, especially the last ten years or so (I can relate to the gaining weight part).

Priced the same I would lean towards the 2000 model. At eleven years old, there will be a small list of things that need attention, lets say ten items. On the 1990, there will be about double that, and they will likely take more time and money to replace. For example the thru-hulls were either bronze or stainless in 2000 if I recall, in 1990 they were plastic and almost definitely need replacing. Go for the 2000 and pay for the engine and hull survey, it will be worth it! If you fall in love with the boat you can always re-power in the future.

Here is the link to the catalogs:
http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/cata ... s/2000.pdf

 

[Tuna Man]

As you probably know, back in 1990 there were no F225 engines. However, there were V8 outboards around that time (Evinrude made them in 88 and 89 I believe) that were pretty heavy. That being said, I doubt you'll have to worry about the weight of the F225 hanging off the back of that 1990 boat (or any year marlin for that matter).

The Yamaha 250 EFI is considered one of the most reliable large outboards ever made by many. However, they were never known for being skimpy on fuel or 2 cycle oil. With 500 hours of light use (50 hours per year) I would not worry much, but I would still have a mechanic do an inspection including a compression check.

I have been on the 28' and the 30' version of the marlin many times. I find the ride of the 30' to be better as the wetted surface is roughly 2' longer (changed in 1998 I think). However, I suspect that the longer surface also adds to the weight and slows the boat slightly as a result while consuming more fuel. If you go to the Grady website you can view all of the catalogs with the specs for each year. I think you will find that the Marlin gained weight every five years since 1989, especially the last ten years or so (I can relate to the gaining weight part).

Priced the same I would lean towards the 2000 model. At eleven years old, there will be a small list of things that need attention, lets say ten items. On the 1990, there will be about double that, and they will likely take more time and money to replace. For example the thru-hulls were either bronze or stainless in 2000 if I recall, in 1990 they were plastic and almost definitely need replacing. Go for the 2000 and pay for the engine and hull survey, it will be worth it! If you fall in love with the boat you can always re-power in the future.

Here is the link to the catalogs:
http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/cata ... s/2000.pdf

 

[megabytes]

I agree with tuner. The 10 year newer boat seems more for your money. I had EFIs. Not as quiet as F225s but huge improvement over old carb engines.

 

[chub2000]

megabites,
do you know how the 280 hull compares to the 300 hull in rough water ?

thank you,
brian

 

[Grady678]

i am looking to buy a Marlin and i found a 1990 280 marlin with new F225's and i am comparing it to a 2000 300 Marlin with ox66's with 500 hours. The price is almost even. How does the ride compare of the older 280 hull to the newer 300 hull ? Are the motors more important than the hull ?

any help would be appreciated.

Rarely would I recommend a two stroke engine setup over four stroke. In this case, I'd strongly suggest the ox66's (and 10 year newer boat) due to their low hours and very strong reputation for a two stroke. Check with Carolina Boat Brokerage....he pretty much knows the Grady inventory Nationwide.

 

[HDGWJOE]

I agree with the posts above... 10-11yrs difference in age is a major swinger... not that anything is wrong with the 1990 but I have a friend with a 1989 Marlin(first year made) and I have watched him do a LOT of work on it in the past 5 or 6 yrs... like replacing his cockpit deck, reseating his windshield(multiple times), new wiring here and there, replacing his head, cushens in cabin now need replacing... and the list goes on.... buy the newer boat and when the time comes repower that boat w/F250's.

 

[chub2000]

i guess its easier to replace motors than it is to replace a hull....it looks like im in the market for a 2000 or 2001 Marlin. thanks for all of the responses.

 

[megabytes]

No first hand knowledge but the only real hull difference is the extension of the hull under the bracket. I believe this happened somewhere between 96 and 97. The Marlin was the first SV2 hull and the ride is great. The 10-7 beam gives great stability when trolling in beam seas as well. I have never had mine in anything that gave it trouble. Worst case was dead into 3-5 capping seas for 10 miles when crossing an old frontal boundary. I was still able to make 20 kts in comfort but yanked the throttles back once or twice for a really big one. The rest of that day was great and ran home at full cruise speed since the boundary dissapated.

 

[chub2000]

thats great to hear.. hopefully i will enjoy the Marlin as much as i enjoy my Seafarer. I need a larger boat because my wife doesnt like using the Seafarer's bathroom AKA a 5 gallon bucket with toilet seat mounted on it...and i want a boat to get me to 50 miles offshore safely. my only concern is that i also fish by myself inshore and the Marlin will probably be more difficult to handle when im alone.
do you guys fish alone on yur Marlins ?

 

[megabytes]

I rarely fish alone but it isn't difficult in a 300. The toe rails and high gunnels are added safety. The quick helm to cockpit access is very helpful. I highly recommend an autopilot. a PLB and a wireless kill switch can save your life in the event of a mishap. AutoTethers are very popular.

 

[chub2000]

those are all great tips..thanks for the advice.
i will post when i find my new boat

 

[downtown]

I have a 1992 Marlin, with 250 ox 66s. I've had the boat for six years. I love the boat. I wish I had four strokes. The engines suck up fuel like there is no tomorrow. Are you going offshore? Are you staying local? Are you mostly fishing, cruising?

The new hull on the Marlin came out in 1997. I'm not sure of the difference in ride, but you can call a knowledgeable Grady dealer or customer service to get some more insight.

What I like on my boat is the transom livewell. It is huge and for the fishing that I do, works great. I can keep large fish alive in that box. That works for culling fluke, stripers and other species. The newer Marlins don't have that feature.

What I would check on the older boat would be the thru hulls, electronics (which you didn't mention), the stringers, the transom bracket, stress cracks, delamination, the decks for any soft spots, canvas, windows for leaks, fuel tanks. On the interior/cosmetic side I would check the general appearance of the gel coat, fabrics (curtains and cushions), fridge, stove, bathroom fixtures, etc. Everything costs money to upgrade. Make a list of all items and see their condition. Compare.

In other words, if the older boat is in mint condition in all these areas, I would go with the four strokes. The OX 66's are considered bullet proof, but I have spent $$ this season on a stator and a fuel pump. Things do wear out.

 

[chub2000]

thank you for your response. i did rule out the 280 due to condition and i put a contract on a 2000 300 marlin with ox66's. the fuel consumtion is better with the 4 strokes,but it seems like it is only about 20% better from what ive read.

 

[downtown]

Best of luck with your purchase. You will love it.