Marlin Generator/bilge access...UPDATE W/PICS

[Gman25]

Thanks Bob..My boat didnt have a crossover support. Im assuming that would be a beam right at the transom wall? I guess they had to remove it to install the generator. But I will keep that in mind if it gets a little flexy maybe Ill install a removable beam..Thanks for the heads up..

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[georgemjr]

Hey GMan - I think this is worthy of a re-post or at the least changing the title so that it indicates "pictures added." There is a huge amount of interest in this subject and I believe that most owners that have already reviewed and posted to it do not realize you have engineered a solution, created the design and taken pictures of the outcome. I would re-post with a new title both here and in tips/modifications. Everyone pre-2008 needs to see this, including myself (although I have the advantage of seeing it in-person

 

[BobP]

GMAN, what's the purpose of the door vertially at the rear? And how did it seal to the floor cover at the bottom? Looks like starboard material vertically.

Just curios

Although you did yours already, looking at the before picture again, I have an idea for installing a flush, off the shelf hatch within the existing floor cover so floor cover remains sealed as before. But opening will be slightly smaller. The off the shelf hatch will be watertight and the similar off white cream color.

Should the gen have to come out, then the whole cover comes up, for everything else the floor cover stays and te hhach swings open.

If anyone is interested, I can continue.

 

[Gman25]

Here is where I created a loop so the water cant back its way into the bilge. The black ribbed hose is new because once you start moving the old hose around it easily splits.

Here is the "T" fitting I picked up at a local plumbing supply store.

Just need to tidy up a bit.

This is a flush 2 pin stamped hinge that as you can see is very flush to the deck that will limit trips and stubbed toes.

When using the flush hinge its necessary to notch out the area where the hinge is going to seat. My dremil made this part a cinch. There was some exposed wood so it was sealed with epoxy.

Here I notched out a small area where water can pass and make its way to the drain on both sides.

 

[Gman25]

GMAN, what's the purpose of the door vertially at the rear? And how did it seal to the floor cover at the bottom? Looks like starboard material vertically.

That vertical fiberglass hatch folds down on a piano hinge. That was the only access to the generator which as you can see isnt much access at all.

 

[el jefe]

Gman I am not a plumbing whizz, but I am a little confused looking at the pictures. The water drains from the drain hole into the green tube port and starboard and they join together with a t connector. From there the single green tube piece goes into the ribbed hose. Help me understand the ribbed hose. Does that drain out through the side of the boat and down the bilge. I am just having a hard time following the piping.
Also, as this is a huge issue for a number of different models, you may want to consider reimaging the project. Maybe the moderators could store it as a fixed thread because I am definitely thinking about doing this. It sure makes routine maintenance a lot easier, like checking the strainers without having to have your forearms get all scratched up from going through the pie hole. Again, this is fantastic info.
BobP curious to hear your alternative idea.

 

[Gman25]

The ribbed hose is the bilge pump hose. If you look at the pic that mentions the "T" from the plumbing supply store you will see where the ribbed hose goes into a bulkhead. That is where the water is pumped through the bilge pump and out of the boat. I simply tapped into that hose so any water from the green hose is fed into the ribbed hose then overboard. Its important that there is a loop(high point) in the ribbed hose at the bilge pump side so gravity will flow the water only one way..out of the boat. Without the loop gravety will flow the water toward the bilge pump and into the bilge.

 

[el jefe]

Doh. Gotta get my eyes checked.

 

[Southern Hunter]

Mega,

Sorry im so late on this but you know how I feel on the access of the batteries issue on the 305.....I hate it, it sucks!!! I hope they get it right before I upgrade to the 330!

 

[BobP]

GMAN25 - thanks

El Jefe, GMAN25's way makes the most access.

Alternately, the floor hatch can remain sealed up as orginal, and then you cut a hole out if it to add a hatch like Beckson sells and many others, have to keep about a 2- 3 inch perimiter to existing hatch, add the 3/4 inch ply stiffener as I explaned above.

To make flush the new hatch, need a little work, just router down a turned radius cut , not a square notched cut, cover notch with 1 or 2 layers of 1708, then bed hatch and fillgap of notch with same caulk, perhaps a gap of 1/4 inch is enough, don't have to do any gelcoat work.

Then when the new hatch closes, it seals waterproof.

Here's the Beckson link - http://www.beckson.com/hatches.html

 

[Gman25]

For those of you who are following along, I discovered after removing the shrink wrap yesterday tapping into the bilge hose will NOT work. Grady put the thru hull way too high for gravity to flow the water out without a pump. So today I installed another stainless thru hull about 1 1/2" above my water line. Its low enough that gravity will flow the water out without an issue and high enough its not under the waterline.

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[astrajls]

I used these latches to convert my 2005 330:
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/po316ststtul.html
It worked out pretty well.

 

[Gman25]

I used these latches to convert my 2005 330:
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/po316ststtul.html
It worked out pretty well.

Do you have any pics of your modification?

2005 300 marlin w/F250's

 

[astrajls]

I do, but I need to upload them to a service. I try ASAP.

 

[Gman25]

I do, but I need to upload them to a service. I try ASAP.

Ok thanks..I would like to see them.I use imagecave.com...works great and even better its free..

 

[Gman25]

A bump for Capt Armchair

 

[Capt Armchair]

Great mod - thanks. I would also love to see astrajls modification.

 

[richie rich]

Gman, nice job....question....how sturdy are those hinges for that size deck lid? Do you think they would be strong enough for a full sized deck lid?

 

[g0tagrip]

access hatch

I have a 2007 Marlin and I added an access hatch in the floor above the water separators. It was killing me to change the fuel water separators. Basically it is a 13 inch by 30 inch hatch that snaps back down on the floor. Water tight. The color does not quite match the Grady off white color but when there is fish blood on the floor who cares. I guess I could paint it but did not.
Seems to me the Grady engineers could have figured out we needed easier access to the fuel water separators, generator, etc. That was my only complaint with my Marlin. Now instead of having to grunt grown swear sweat stretch and have a huge black and blue mark across my chest what took hours to do takes less than 5 minutes now. And you guys know that Yamaha wants us to change those separators every 50 hour now.

 

[Gman25]

Gman, nice job....question....how sturdy are those hinges for that size deck lid? Do you think they would be strong enough for a full sized deck lid?

The hinges are very solid, in fact I bought 3 which was my original plan but after seeing how the 2 supported the hatch I decided to go with 2. When you say full size deck lid are you talking about the removable hatch above the fuel tanks?