From what you're saying while on plane, you have a steering issue and not a bow steer problem. As previously mentioned, make sure your steering system is full, check for air in the system and alignment of the motors.
Marlin Not Tracking Well
- Thread starter ret
- Start date
You guys are right on the money. I have 720 deg of play in my steering. I can even move the engines side to side by hand with no response at the wheel. The engines have been flopping around back there and I've been flailing around at the helm to try and correct. I'll add some hydraulic fluid and work out the air. That should do the trick.
I will also check the drainage from the bow as recommended since I have to pump out the forward bilge periodically.
I'm not sure how to check the alignment, but I will look into that also.
I can't thank you guys enough.
I will also check the drainage from the bow as recommended since I have to pump out the forward bilge periodically.
I'm not sure how to check the alignment, but I will look into that also.
I can't thank you guys enough.
:goodjob Be sure to bleed both rams on the motors and you would be best served to have a mechanic with a power purge do the job.Air is a difficult thing to eliminate on a boat.Glad I nailed it for you.The theory is, there are too many boats on the water for it to be the hull.Usually steering makes a boat squirrley and hard to handle.Let us know how it finishes out. :wink:Should be like a different boat when its right. :dance
I read your post on the site and air in steering system is not good u need to fix the leak . look at steering clynder for leaking end caps .see if oil is in splash dish in front of motors. also check that when boat got repowerd that they spred motors to 32 and one half inch for new motors.old 2 stroke motors used 28 and one half inch centerline. and number 2 hole is right hight.
Not understanding the difference in the spread of the motors.Are you inferring that they drilled new holes to repower from 2 strokes to four strokes? Could you explain , are the measurements you stated fom the center of the boat out each way?.Why the difference.Thanks.
with motors stright center line of motors is 32 and half inch center of steering arms. yes you have to drill new holes if not right.
Why the need to re drill the holes?, For example, my boat is in the two stroke position, yamaha's weighed 493 each, 2-stroke,---- suzuki weigh 580 a piece 4 stroke.I am curious to know why it's needed to poke 8 new holes in the transom , my boat new, came from naples by the way.What does the "2 inches" off the center line per motor accomplish?Is that only if you repower with yamaha?
We have an 08 Marlin and I had experienced similar issues to where we were not impressed with tracking in following seas. I've attributed the issues to improper trim with the boat's trim tabs as well as engine trim. I also prefer not to have full fuel load in following seas. We seemed to have resolved our concerns with proper trim and weight distribution. I will monitor the issue ...otherwise we really are impressed overall with the how the boat tracks in head on chop and cross chop. This is our second Grady (first was a 24'-fantastic boat). In my oipnion, Gradys have very sensitive trim issues in comparison to other boats I've operated. I've had two Whalers, a Skipjack, and Farallon, which were all quality boats. However, I'll take a Grady over those boats any day... :!:
Dave
08 30' Marlin x2 250s
Dave
08 30' Marlin x2 250s
I checked the spacing on the engines, and it is 28.5 inches. She has been repowered with Yamaha 225 hp 4 strokes. I am also curious as to the performance different, or ballast difference that the 4 inches (to 32.5 inch separation) makes. Does Grady White have documented specifications for repowering?
YES THAT IS THE SPEC PER GRADY. I JUST REPOWERD A 28 GRADY AT OR GRADY DEALERSHIP IN SOUTH FL WITH F250 .IT HAD 2 STROKE 250 ON IT AT 28 1/2 . HAD 2 PATCH OLD HOLES DRILL NEW HOLES AND NEW TIE BAR .THE SPEC IS THE SAME FOR F225. 32 1/2 INCHS AND NUMBER 2 BOLT HOLE. MAKE SURE U HAVE YAMAHA SALT WATER 2 PROPS AND NOT OLD 2 STROKE PROPS. OLD PROPS WILL FIT BUT WRONG DIA 14 1/2. YAMAHA SALT WATER PROPS R SS1 PROPS R15 1/4 AND SS2 PROPS R 15 1/2 DIA THOSE PROPS R MADE JUST FOR THAT KIND OF BOAT.
Nothing yet NOREGRETS. I'll call Grady about the spacing (good discussion on the other thread). I need to fix my steering/air issue, but have been slowed by the birth of of my daughter.
You'd think my wife would have waited until this issue was resolved!! Women
You'd think my wife would have waited until this issue was resolved!! Women
My tracking problem was the result of air in the hydraulic lines.
Regarding the engine spacing, this is the response from Grady Engineering, "28.5" is the minimum center line distance between the engines (for four strokes). The engines will hit each other in certain turn/tilt conditions if they are closer than 28.5".
We changed the Marlin center lines to 32.5" in 2005 which provides extra clearance and better response in docking situations. However, I don't know of a performance reason to go through the effort and expense of moving them on this particular boat."
This should put to rest any concerns folks had.
Regarding the engine spacing, this is the response from Grady Engineering, "28.5" is the minimum center line distance between the engines (for four strokes). The engines will hit each other in certain turn/tilt conditions if they are closer than 28.5".
We changed the Marlin center lines to 32.5" in 2005 which provides extra clearance and better response in docking situations. However, I don't know of a performance reason to go through the effort and expense of moving them on this particular boat."
This should put to rest any concerns folks had.
ret, if you are a DIYer, you do not add fluid to get out air, there is a step by step procedure on Teleflex website. You probably have a leak that is letting air in even if no fluid leaks, so find it, otherwise same all over.
Also, as the captain - watch out for what's going on, look back there regularly too!
Never ignore nor try to compensate for anything abnomal ever, figure out what it is and now and why.
If you are a DIYer, the alignment procedure I have used is simple.
A helper at the wheel is helpful but not needed.
I can do it out of water, can't do it in water.
Do it before / after air is cleared from system.
Must have mechanical tie bar, no "liquid" coupling type like on cats.
If you hire out your work won't need it, otherwise let me know here.
Also, as the captain - watch out for what's going on, look back there regularly too!
Never ignore nor try to compensate for anything abnomal ever, figure out what it is and now and why.
If you are a DIYer, the alignment procedure I have used is simple.
A helper at the wheel is helpful but not needed.
I can do it out of water, can't do it in water.
Do it before / after air is cleared from system.
Must have mechanical tie bar, no "liquid" coupling type like on cats.
If you hire out your work won't need it, otherwise let me know here.