Mid Bilge Pump Advice

G243

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Panama City, Florida
My 243 Chase only has one aft bilge pump. Like a lot of Grady's on a lift mine holds water in the mid bilge. This drives me nuts so I am looking into the best way to install a second bilge pump in this mid area.

What have some of you folks done to move this water overboard?
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
8,033
Reaction score
1,286
Points
113
mine came with a mid hull pump and it is the one where water collects if I wash down the rode or interior when at the dock. The install of the pump isn't difficult, but getting access to the hull above the water line could be the difficult part. It might be worth having someone do it for you unless you are ok with it. Just make sure the line rises or does a small loop so you get gravity working against you and by chance nothing can come in via the thru hull.
 

G243

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Panama City, Florida
Thanks Fishtales for the input. My main concern is how to route a new discharge hose and a new through hull fitting. Since my boat boat didn't already have a mid bilge discharge hose I am having a tough time figuring out how to route a drain hose through the inner hull stringers.

Honestly, I don't think it's a viable option if it did not come factory delivered. Reason being has to do with the drain hose.
 

glacierbaze

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
2,488
Reaction score
644
Points
113
Age
75
Location
Chapel Hill and Pine Knoll Shores, NC
Model
Seafarer
I keep thinking that I will do the same, install a mid bilge pump on my '93 Tournament 22. Factory original is the dumbest thing I could imagine, as every drop that makes it to the aft pump has to go through a 3/4 inch hole to get to the boxed in pump. I leave it with the trailer as high as the jack will go, and usually block it even higher, with the plug out, but when I back down the ramp it starts cycling. It pumps the water out a lot faster than the water can get through the weep hole to the pump. Any thru hull, or similar failure, will put far more water into the boat than can make it to the aft pump.
The good news is, that on my boat, you can easily run a discharge hose aft and put a thru hull out the hull side in the compartment under the stern jump seats. You could probably do the same, following the run of the fuel lines, and not need to get to the side of the hull midships.
 

SkunkBoat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2017
Messages
4,509
Reaction score
1,614
Points
113
Location
Manasquan Inlet NJ
Website
www.youtube.com
Model
Express 265
I'm new to Grady and not familiar with the model but usually removing the fuel tank hatch gives you access to running wires/hoses.
My 265 has a lot of access ports and screwed down covers and pvc tubing passing thru frames and stringers.

Lookup the manual on Grady site. The diagram might show you where they routed the optional fwd pump?
 

G243

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Panama City, Florida
Thanks for the replies. I will keep thinking about this and if I come up with a decent solution I'll post a follow up.
 

G243

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Panama City, Florida
Adjusting the bunks on the lift is an option. I left them level since I may change from stern in to bow in first. I like stern in since it gives me a better view on the boat (thieves).

The other reason for adding a mid bilge is redundancy. I recently had a custom trailer built from Owen's and Son's and don't have water collecting while on the trailer so I may use that more for now.
 

DennisG01

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Messages
7,191
Reaction score
1,341
Points
113
Location
Allentown, PA & Friendship, ME
Model
Offshore
I'm not overly familiar with the intricacies of your layout (especially below deck), so I' just spitballin' here... I'm thinking that with the fuel tank hatch removed, you should be able to get a hole drilled in the forward bulkhead of the fuel "coffin". Then, run the hose aft, going through any other bulkheads, if needed. Once you get to the rear bilge, I would think you can then route it port or starboard - maybe next to the existing thru-hull for the aft bilge (not super close... maybe 3"?). Be sure to include an upward loop at the thru-hull fitting. And, use a matching thru-hull to the existing one... just for aesthetics. Seal any holes you drill with epoxy to protect the wood core and then sealant to help mitigate water/moisture traveling from one compartment to another.

Again, I don't know your boat real well, but in many cases it's hard to go "left and right" under a deck because of stringers, foam and lack of access.
 

G243

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Panama City, Florida
I do believe running through the tank coffin is a good idea. I will add that IMO the Chase is a bear beneath the deck.
 

glacierbaze

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
2,488
Reaction score
644
Points
113
Age
75
Location
Chapel Hill and Pine Knoll Shores, NC
Model
Seafarer
Pop a pie plate out, stick a camera with flash down there, and just start shooting. On my boat, the tank is in the midsection, and you can run a hose over the rear bulkhead without drilling any holes. It's not like they are watertight compartments.
When I asked about the coring under my two panels down the middle of the cockpit, GW told me that marine plywood was not yet invented in 1993. Anyone know when it became common?