motor bracket leak - what's the best fix?

[BobP]

By the way, the powdercoating coming off is purely an aestetic (sp?) issue, the almag is self protecting presuming galvanic corrosion is not out of control.

You are going to have trouble matching the powdecoat thickness with any any paint, you may have to bevel the edge, or as they say feather it, first. That's if you want such a finished effect.

 

[stonephoto]

I am about to tackle the same job with a leaking engine bracket and have some questions of lifting my 1992 Yamaha 225. Where exactly are the lifting points on the motor? I was going to buy a 2 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight, $149 with only $11 shipping. I'm not going to move the motor much so I don't have to disconnect any cables. I'm just going to support it while I remove the bolts so I can then remove the bracket. Should I replace all the bolts with new one's? I'm talking about the bolts that attach the motor to the bracket and the bracket to the boat? What caulk should I use for the mounting process, both for the bolts and between the transom and the bracket? Thank you for any help with this!

 

[BobP]

Welcome to the site.

Look at the motor you will see the points to lift from, there are three on my HPDI (all three needed for proper balance). If you can't figure it out get the service manual available at Yamaha.com for purchase.

Since car motors are much lower down than outboards, the motor hoists may be challenged to get that high if you use slings from the three points at a proper moderate angle. Hence the adjustable spreader bar to the rescue.

There are several products to use for caulk, I'd use Boatlife Lifecaulk for this application. Others prefer the 3M products.

I don't have a problem reusing bolts that are not exposed to excessive heating, as long as they are void of any corrosion, cracks, pits, etc. if you have any concerns, at the minimum -do the motor bolts new.

 

[gw204]

I am about to tackle the same job with a leaking engine bracket and have some questions of lifting my 1992 Yamaha 225. Where exactly are the lifting points on the motor?

Look on the top of the block right between the thermostat housings. You may have a loop bolted on there already. My '98 225s had it as do my '00 200s.

 

[stonephoto]

Yes I found it! So there is just one? Seems like a lot of weight for a motor of that size?

 

[BobP]

If that's it, that's it.

500 lbs is not a lot of weight, relatively speaking. Since there is one point I presume it will hang relatively plumb, so you don't need the spreader bar. My 1992 Johnnies were the same way, the lift point was from the flywheel center via the three point puller holes.

Good luck.

 

[stonephoto]

To avoid the cost and the chance that the engine puller won't go high enough I'm thinking I may use a branch from my very large oak tree. If I use my come-a-long and attach it to that loop on the motor (by the way excuse my ignorance but was is "three point puller holes") and to the tree. I then could unbolt the motor and allow some of the weight to be on the ground. Leave it hanging while I take off the bracket, re-caulk and paint, which should take a week or so. Any thoughts?

 

[gw204]

To avoid the cost and the chance that the engine puller won't go high enough I'm thinking I may use a branch from my very large oak tree. If I use my come-a-long and attach it to that loop on the motor (by the way excuse my ignorance but was is "three point puller holes") and to the tree. I then could unbolt the motor and allow some of the weight to be on the ground. Leave it hanging while I take off the bracket, re-caulk and paint, which should take a week or so. Any thoughts?

Personally, I wouldn't leave my motor hanging from a tree. There's too much that could happen that could result in it falling. If nothing else, at least lay it down on a pallet.

 

[Strikezone]

Personally, I wouldn't leave my motor hanging from a tree. There's too much that could happen that could result in it falling. If nothing else, at least lay it down on a pallet.

I was thinking the same thing...kind of reminds me of the old "You might be a redneck..." thing. I would also use an engine hoist or lay it on its side.

 

[LUNDINROOF]

Bracket Removal

The bracket on my 246G must be bolted from the inside, I see no bolts on the outside to remove. Anybody know how many and what size? The only way I can see to get to the bolts is to remove the livewell?

 

[gw204]

Re: Bracket Removal

The bracket on my 246G must be bolted from the inside, I see no bolts on the outside to remove. Anybody know how many and what size? The only way I can see to get to the bolts is to remove the livewell?

That's one of the differences between the Springfield and Gil (the one you have) brackets. Not sure of the size of the nuts, but it probably has 6 as my twin engine Gil has 10. I can get the size this weekend for you...

 

[catch22]

Stonephoto,

I just re-read this thread and, unless I somehow missed it, if your only issue is water in the bracket, (leaking) you don't have to remove the bracket or motor. Just remove any old sealent, clean and re-seal around the perimiter of the bracket, where it meats the transom. Seal around the mounting bolts, and the inspection plate as well. Use a "below the water line" sealent. You could also go around and check/tighten any mounting bolts.

I'm not trying to undermine anyone else's opinion here, but I just can't see going to all that extreme just to re-seal it.

If the brackets in poor shape and your getting it re-painted, then of course it has to come off, but imo, it's not neccesary for just re-sealing.

 

[stonephoto]

Catch 22

I never really described my issue in the first place and thank you very much for responding. I recently purchased the boat from a very meticulous owner. I noticed while on the trailer that there was some seepage of water running down the transom from around the bottom area where the bracket is attached to the boat (around the bolt heads). Not thinking much of it and assuming it was condensation I didn't question it.

Recently I removed the bracket's access cover and noticed that the caulking had deteriorated and had to be redone. Looking down the hole I noticed the bracket had water in it. I then went to drain the bracket by removing the plug with no avail. The plug will not turn and I'm afraid I will break it.

The bracket is in very good shape except for some missing paint in spots. I'm having it professionally maintained next month and figured I would ask the shop what I should do.

 

[BobP]

It may be difficult to get a good seal where the two meet externally. Has to be a wide bead and cleaned out prior of bottom paint, any loose paint. It's not how it was originally sealed.

But hey he can try and if it doesn't work- then take it off.

Taking it off readily allows an internal inspection for evaluation of galvanic damage- there is no back side to the drive. As well as evaluating the foam blocks if he has them.

It doesn't have to come off to restore coating if using paint. May not be easy to work on the bottom laying down looking up, but doable. Not that big of a surface to strip.

Same goes on the drain hole if stripped or corroded out, he can have an alum hex head nut TIG welded on the inside.

 

[catch22]

Catch 22

I never really described my issue in the first place and thank you very much for responding. I recently purchased the boat from a very meticulous owner. I noticed while on the trailer that there was some seepage of water running down the transom from around the bottom area where the bracket is attached to the boat (around the bolt heads). Not thinking much of it and assuming it was condensation I didn't question it.

Recently I removed the bracket's access cover and noticed that the caulking had deteriorated and had to be redone. Looking down the hole I noticed the bracket had water in it. I then went to drain the bracket by removing the plug with no avail. The plug will not turn and I'm afraid I will break it.

The bracket is in very good shape except for some missing paint in spots. I'm having it professionally maintained next month and figured I would ask the shop what I should do.

Well... again, based on what you describe, (and it sounds exactly like what I have seen) all you need is a decent re-seal. I had one grady, when I pulled the boat for the first time, the bracket was almost completely filled with water. Re-sealed it and never had a drop after that, (3 seasons in a slip). Like BobP said... put a heavy, wide bead on the perimiter. Smear it on with a wet, (water) finger. You can paint over it anyway.

Seal up the inspection plate - remove it and put a bead all the way around the mounting surface. Seal each screw. Imo, those plates do not provide a good seal, so I also seal the pop out plate itself. Should be no reason to open it after this. You check the bracket for leaks by simply removing the drain plug. And if for some reason you need to open the inspection plate, it will still pop out with some extra force.

The original drain plugs are aluminum. It's common for them to freeze up. if there's a little bit of the plug protruding out, give vise-grips a try on it. If not, drill a hole in the center of the plug and use an "easy out" extractor to back it out. If you do some searching, you can find a stainless replacement... or even plastic, (personally, I don't like the plastic ones, they seem cheap). I believe they are 1/4" npt. I've always replaced them with the standard bronze version, found at any boating store, or even Walmart. I dress the threads with teflon tape. The tape seals up the threads and also acts as a lubricant for easy removal. Again... season after season, never had any problems.

 

[jimintheair3]

Swim step off to reseal bracket

What about the full swim platform across the top of the "twin drive" ? Are their just two bolts holding it on to the transom? I have to remove it to seal the top of the "twin Drive bracket". It appears that it is 4200-5200 seal to the bracket, with two bolts to the transom and the two stainless brackets port and starboard.
Thanks Jim

 

[BobP]

Brian GW204 has the platform, he knows the answer -

 

[jimintheair3]

I sent Brian a PM. Jim

 

[gw204]

My swim platform had two lag bolts on each side of the bracket in addition to the side supports. It was also bedded in either 4200 or 5200...which made it a b*tch to get off. I tried numerous methods of getting through the caulking (I'm not listing them all), but the most effective was to use a long length of fishing wire (aobut 120 lb. test) to pull through the joint to cut most of the caulking. If I remember correctly, I haywired one end to a stern eye, ran the wire to the opposite side of the boat, got it started in the seam, haywired the other end to a BIG screwdriver and then pulled back toward the other side of the boat from under the bracket. When the angle got too great to be effective, I switched to pulling above the bracket. Safety glass are a necessity becuase the wire will break....numerous times.

I also hit the joint with that Anti-Bond stuff and let it soak for a while.

 

[OffTheCharts232]

Any drain plug replacement has to be aluminum or plastic or else galvanic corrosion will take place. try heating the plug with a torch and spray some penetrant on there while its hot, repeat as necessary until the plug comes out, no vice grips...use the right tool.