Moving Boat Forward on Trailer

[Capt Tom]

I am in the process of installing trim tabs on my 205 Freedom. The boards on my trailer extend out about 15 inches from the transom. I was just about ready to cut them off even but now I am thinking if I should move the boat forward some before doing this. Now this is where I need help. Is the boat in it's current position the optimum location or moving it forward 6 inches will have any or little impact? The extra 6 inches believe it or not is a benefit as far as storage. I appreciate any expert advice. Thanks

 

[SkunkBoat]

What you want to do is have the boat in a position where 10% of the total loaded Boat/Trailer weight is on the tongue (when at the height of your hitch).

So if your boat+trailer weighs 3500 pounds, the weight on the tongue should 350 pounds

Thats a nice trailer. Looks way longer than needed for that boat.
Moving forward might put to much on the tongue.
It might be that you need to shorten the tongue beam to set the proper 10% tongue weight.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Yes 6” will add tongue weight which could alter trailering stability. If you need more storage room perhaps a folding tongue will help.
Sorry tried to provide a link didn’t work but just do a search on folding trailer tongue . It’s something you can bolt in.

 

[Capt Tom]

I guess I will just leave well enough alone and cut the boards. This thing tows and launchs flawlessly, I picked it up this spring in the mountains of North Carolina and drove to the Gulf Coast with no problem. Thanks for the advice.

 

[suzukidave]

that looks like a trailer for a much bigger boat. looks like you could mount that winch post forward of the v and handle another two feet of length plus the excess bunk length, plus another 6-12" of overhang at the transom.

you might see if you can trade it for a trailer that fits the boat better.

 

[Capt Tom]

Come to think of it though, by having the long tongue and the boat sitting further back it keeps my truck higher on the ramp. My previous boat sometimes you had to just about put your rear tires in the water.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Come to think of it though, by having the long tongue and the boat sitting further back it keeps my truck higher on the ramp. My previous boat sometimes you had to just about put your rear tires in the water.

I'd still worry about the weight placement and tongue weight being wrong. The wrong tongue weight at highway speeds can flip you right off the road. I've seen it.

I'm sure (like everyone else) you haven't taken it to a scale but you could do a rough estimate.
Get dry weight of boat from Owners manual, weight of motor, weight of trailer off the label, weight of a full tank of gas (6.3 x however many gallons) and add a couple hundred pounds for gear.
Get the tongue weight by placing a bathroom scale on blocks at hitch height & lower the coupler down onto it.

Do the math but my guess is a typical loaded 20 footer with a 4 stroke and an oversized aluminum trailer will be about 3000 to 3500 pounds.
If so, your tongue weight should be between 300 and 350 pounds.
If tongue weighs less, move the boat forward until its right so long as your aren't moving fwd of the rear axle.

I would probably swing it by a trailer dealer and get an expert opinion.

 

[JAdams1]

I have a Tournament 205 on a new 2019 Venture VATB-5225 trailer. When the dealer set it up, they moved the winch stand forward. Transom lines up with edge of bunks. Trailers nice on the highway.

 

[JAdams1]

Here is a picture of my trailer before the winch stand got moved. My bunks do not extend as far back as yours? Is your trailer for a larger boat? Mine is for a 20-22 foot boat.

 

[UCPA111]

I moved my bunks forward and my winch post as well to get the proper tongue load. It can be done. I had ordered a new trailer that was setup for a standard Seafarer. But, I made a bunch of mods and added a Verado to the tail....thus my weight distribution was unknown.

I jacked boat up. Unbolted bunks...slid them forward...remounted...backed trailer up...and reset boat. Safety first...and patience. I had a scale under the tongue to know the load.

 

[DennisG01]

Moving the boat 6" can definitely have a noticeable impact on tongue weight and how the rig tows. For boat trailers (for some reason this is different than travel trailers), you're looking for 5% - 7%. Adjusting a trailer properly is not always just a function of moving the winch stand - sometimes you need to move the axles, as well.

I don't know where you are located, but the mention of a CAT scale above is a good one. Search around - you might be surprised that you have one (or more) in the area. Some large landscape companies use them, as well. Also metal scrapping places. I've never been charged more than about $15 and they never rush me out, either. I usually end up doing all kinds of weighing. Be sure to check the tongue weight at the COUPLER, not your tongue jack. You also need to check with the frame level. An easy way is to drop the front of the trailer onto the scale, with the tongue holding the frame slightly higher than level. Using a pre-cut a length of 4x4, drop the coupler onto the 4x, thereby putting the frame level.

You can do this with a bathroom scale, even if your scale doesn't go high enough. It's been a while since I did that (like 20+ years), but you basically use a couple blocks of wood that are the same height as the scale, set the blocks and the scale, say, 3' apart, then use a piece of wood to connect the two of them. Then drop the coupler onto a 4x4 like above. Depending on where in that 3' you put the 4x, the weight seen on the scale will "x" % less than the real amount. You then calculate the actual weight, based on how far the 4x is from the scale. Google it - I'm sure there is mention of this, along with the calculation. It's not hard, by any means, I just don't remember it well enough to say.

NOW, all that being said... if the rig currently tows well at highway speeds (including a little exaggerated lane-change maneuvers)... Just cut the bunks off. Easy peasy. Peel the carpet back, then your choice of a zip saw... circ saw... hand saw, etc. Easy.

EDIT: Oh, it's better to have extra tongue weight than not enough. Assuming the tow vehicle can handle it.

 

[Capt Tom]

Here is a picture of my trailer before the winch stand got moved. My bunks do not extend as far back as yours? Is your trailer for a larger boat? Mine is for a 20-22 foot boat.View attachment 6254

Mine is also for a 20-22'. By looking at your setup from the best I can tell, your boat is sitting a little forward of mine. Anyway I pretty well made up my mind to just cut the boards. It tows and launches fine and my rear truck tires stay dry.

 

[seasick]

Mine is also for a 20-22'. By looking at your setup from the best I can tell, your boat is sitting a little forward of mine. Anyway I pretty well made up my mind to just cut the boards. It tows and launches fine and my rear truck tires stay dry.

As you have said; It trailers great, launches and retrieves well. I don't think any adjustment is needed. If shortening the bunks makes you fell better, I guess that is OK, but I might see if the bunks can be relocated forward a bit instead of cutting them. That model trailer is decremented for a 21-22 foot boat but is not over sized for your hull.

 

[Capt Tom]

Thanks for all the advice. One thing I did notice if I moved it forward it would lower the bow. The V support location and decrease in deadrise would require that to be adjusted also. It is already difficult enough to drain water from the bilge. Anyway taking the easy path and leaving it as is.