My first fiberglass recore

[Vlabruzzo]

UPDATE:
tonight I layed in one layer of 1.5 oz csm. I coated the core, marine ply with resin and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Then I made some peanutbutter and troweled it onto the core than layed it in place. I probably couldve used like another 3 oz of resin to wet out the csm. Tomorrow ill finish it up witha layer of 1.5 csm and a layer of 1708.

I began recoring my auxillary hold panel. 1st off for those that say polyester resin doesnt stick to plywood, I'd say you never did this before,lol.
For today I removed old wood amd quickly ground out the skin. I need to get the corners better and if I need to all the little pock marks?
Ill up date the post as I go. Im going to use polyester resin and regular plywood to be cost prohibitive. Ill pay attention to ensure everything is sealed properly. Im going to reinforce around the inspection panel and repair the gel coat side. There are a few crack i need to mend as well.
I had intentions of re gel coating the entire thing but I may just go with an epoxy paint a d try to color match the rest of the deck.

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Just an fyi... I had tyvek suits to wear while grinding... problem is i was to lazy to get it..... now my arms are itchy as @#$%.

 

[Bloodweiser]

Did you have a mask on?

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Did you have a mask on?

I did.

 

[Bloodweiser]

That's a plus.

 

[ScottyCee]

Cabosil is your friend for the “pock marks” and anything you want to fill. Corners too. If you decide to gel instead of paint you can make colored filler with it.

IMO you should use foam rather than plywood. It isn’t that much more and will last much longer.

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Cabosil is your friend for the “pock marks” and anything you want to fill. Corners too. If you decide to gel instead of paint you can make colored filler with it.

IMO you should use foam rather than plywood. It isn’t that much more and will last much longer.

Foam as in big box stuff or marine coring?

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Cabosil is your friend for the “pock marks” and anything you want to fill. Corners too. If you decide to gel instead of paint you can make colored filler with it.

IMO you should use foam rather than plywood. It isn’t that much more and will last much longer.

I was also thinking of spreading a layer of resin first to fill any voids and level skin for my core? Use cabosil also when doing this? Or grind as level as possible first?

 

[ScottyCee]

Grind so that high spots are flat enough to get new core in deep enough and fairly flat. Foam from fiberglass supply. Cabosil really just adjusts viscosity of the resin.

 

[seasick]

I would be very hesitant to use plain plywood. Never use pressure treated plywood either. Marine plywood is a decent choice but a composite like Coosa board is a choice that will never rot or turn to mush. Downside is that it is pricey stuff.
Some of the less expensive foams will probably work, you just need to glass them up with a few layers of biaxial cloth. The fiberglass cloth and resin makes the foam board very stiff.
There are excellent videos on the site BoatworksToday.com

 

[Sparkdog118]

Just an fyi... I had tyvek suits to wear while grinding... problem is i was to lazy to get it..... now my arms are itchy as @#$%.

Best way to beat the itch is to start with hot and cold shower. Start with cold water. Wash lightly with wash cloth and soap. Rinse. Then switch to as hot as you can stand. Repeat washing n rinsing. Go back n forth doing this with hot n cold. Opens n closes pores n works out the fiberglass from the skin. Then use some lotion.

 

[Sparkdog118]

I used 1/2 divinicyl and my hatch was rock solid.

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Best way to beat the itch is to start with hot and cold shower. Start with cold water. Wash lightly with wash cloth and soap. Rinse. Then switch to as hot as you can stand. Repeat washing n rinsing. Go back n forth doing this with hot n cold. Opens n closes pores n works out the fiberglass from the skin. Then use some lotion.

Believe it or not, I used a lint roller night and it helped immensely

 

[Sparkdog118]

Suggestions to rebuild floor hatch over gas tank 24 offshore

I am in the process of rebuilding my floor hatch. It is approximately 5 ft by 2 ft. Not sure what the best core material would be. Was thinking 3/8 or 1/2 in ply covered with ounce n a half mat? Biaxal? Woven riven? I know enough about fiberglassing to get myself in trouble. Lol.

www.greatgrady.com

 

[Sparkdog118]

Believe it or not, I used a lint roller night and it helped immensely

Haven’t heard of that one yet. Lol.

 

[Vlabruzzo]

Updated

 

[Jimsalv]

I used 1/2 divinicyl and my hatch was rock solid.

So how is your hatch after 2 years with the divinicyl? I am undertaking the fun job of recoring my hatches and am curious. Thanks!

Jim

 

[Fishtales]

Doing this on one of my cockpit floor covers now. Looking at 1/2 coosa board.

 

[DennisG01]

So how is your hatch after 2 years with the divinicyl? I am undertaking the fun job of recoring my hatches and am curious. Thanks!

Jim

If it was done correctly, it should last decades, at least. If he reports back that there's a problem, it's not the DC's fault!

I used cheapo foamboard insulation about 6 years ago. Certainly if that works, anything else will be fine.

 

[Hookup1]

Well considering material costs I would have used West System epoxy. Less of a problem with plywoo coring if properly sealed including drilling out all the holes and epoxy filling them. Vacuum bagging the part is even better.

Polyester bonds poorly to old polyester (your top deck). Works well for initial layup with short re-coat times but does not bond well in repair situations.

Done rite...done once.