My next project!!

[Diad]

I had New Wire do my boat switch panel as well. I took their terminations to a terminal block, put ring terminals on the boat side to the same terminal block. Works and looks great!

 

[Hookup1]

Trying to get the orders in tomorrow. 6x2 to match original. A little wider but should be ok. Blue backlit with dimmer. Trimmed old harness out with Molex connectors to boat out of old panel. No reconnectoring/rewiring planned. If something isn't working I'll re-crimp. Ordering a dash panel too for gauges.

 

[Ky Grady]

Trying to get the orders in tomorrow. 6x2 to match original. A little wider but should be ok. Blue backlit with dimmer. Trimmed old harness out with Molex connectors to boat out of old panel. No reconnectoring/rewiring planned. If something isn't working I'll re-crimp. Ordering a dash panel too for gauges.

View attachment 33614

If your panel is up on the dash like SkunkBoat's, I can see the issue with the blue lights at night. Nice addition with the dimmer. Where mine is down low beside me, I should be in better shape.

 

[Hookup1]

If your panel is up on the dash like SkunkBoat's, I can see the issue with the blue lights at night. Nice addition with the dimmer. Where mine is down low beside me, I should be in better shape.

View attachment 33615

My panel is where your Minn Kota control is. I rarely use the boat at night either. I like the Contura V switches better. I may add blue cockpit lights in the cockpit and put them on the dimmer. Have you or SkunkBoat done cockpit lighting?

 

[Ky Grady]

My panel is where your Minn Kota control is. I rarely use the boat at night either. I like the Contura V switches better. I may add blue cockpit lights in the cockpit and put them on the dimmer. Have you or SkunkBoat done cockpit lighting?

Only thing I've done as far as cockpit lighting, is change out the bulbs to blue LED on the steps. Here's both cockpit and the drain plug lights on while we were dockside down in the Keys.

 

[Hookup1]

Only thing I've done as far as cockpit lighting, is change out the bulbs to blue LED on the steps. Here's both cockpit and the drain plug lights on while we were dockside down in the Keys.

Those lights look great!. Do you remember what they are? I'll probably start there. Maybe do some under the gunnel. Strictly for show - no functional value for me.

What is a drain plug light? Underwater lights? I don't have any. Maybe if I take the transom apart I'll add a pair.

 

[Ky Grady]

My blue is for cruise and dockside, didn't do it for fishing.

Here's what I'm using. Drain plug light replaces garboard flange. Didn't want any more holes through transom, so I went this route. Drain plug light came from BoatPlugLight.com

 

[SkunkBoat]

A few days ago I bought a CHEAP set of 4 blue LED that LOOKED like replacements for the OEM Attwood cockpit lights. Screws smaller and holes not as far apart and the unit will not sit flush against the gelcoat. The gasket supplied was useless. I will have to make neoprene washers or something.
The Grady wires with 1/4" terminals were tied up high in a tight place on both sides but eventually i got them. If you have the terminals out of the hole, DONT LET THEM FALL BACK IN!


Blue is fine for chillin at the dock. Got blue UW also.

I have red dash switches. You will regret blue anywhere near the dash. It will blind you directly and the reflection in the windshield will blind you again.. I have one blue USB outlet that I had to unplug because I could not drive..

 

[Hookup1]

I have red dash switches. You will regret blue anywhere near the dash. It will blind you directly and the reflection in the windshield will blind you again.. I have one blue USB outlet that I had to unplug because I could not drive..

I'm undecided on blue vs. red.
I rarely use the boat in the dark. No canyon runs. No lighting on my oval switches now. I could live without lighting but I like the etched Contura V switches and the lighting is "free".

Maybe what I'll do is go red. Do you think I'll need a dimmer?

 

[glacierbaze]

I would go red, to preserve my night vision. Isn’t the illumination power wired to the first switch, and then jumped down the line? You could wire that power through an extra ACC switch, or a dimmer, and turn it off if it bothered you while driving. If you go blue, your night vision will not come back quickly, even if you turn the lights off.

 

[Ky Grady]

I'm undecided on blue vs. red.
I rarely use the boat in the dark. No canyon runs. No lighting on my oval switches now. I could live without lighting but I like the etched Contura V switches and the lighting is "free".

Maybe what I'll do is go red. Do you think I'll need a dimmer?

Why not stay with what you want, the blue? You already have the dimmer speced out. Only YOU know how you use your boat. Just sayin'.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I have red and still wish I had a dimmer. Sometimes I put my hat over the panel

You have to pay attention to the type of switch for Nav/anchor if go with dimmer.

 

[Halfhitch]

I have red and still wish I had a dimmer. Sometimes I put my hat over the panel

You have to pay attention to the type of switch for Nav/anchor if go with dimmer.

I agree. Ideally the Nav/anchor would be powered separate from all the pumps, lights and dimmers and so-forth, so if there is a problem with that system the Nav/anchor can continue on with a separate steady fused feed from the major feed wires for the helm fuse panel.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I agree. Ideally the Nav/anchor would be powered separate from all the pumps, lights and dimmers and so-forth, so if there is a problem with that system the Nav/anchor can continue on with a separate steady fused feed from the major feed wires for the helm fuse panel.

I was not suggesting fusing the Nav/Anc separately from the switch panel. That would cause complications with using it to light the other switches.

New Wire refers to illumination lamps as "Independant", meaning they are powered independant of switch position. "Dependant "indicate ON and are powered by the circuit itself.


what I was refering to was the "Independant " illumination of the switches.

Often the Nav/anchor switch is not "illuminated" it just indicates on. It is used to turn on the illumination of the other switches. It is a non-illuminated ON/OFF/ON with jumpers.
If you use the Dimmer off of the Nav/anchor, it won't dim the nav/anchor

The dimmer controls the"Independant" (pin 8 & 7) Illumination brightnes but not the "Dependant" ON indicator brightness

Read thru New Wires site because you may need to order a different switch (an Independant illuminated ON/OFF/ON) for the Nav/anc.

Your Fuel Gauge switch is another point for some thought. The old one was not powered, nor illuminated. It switched the pink and the pink/white sender wire to the gauge SENDER terminal.
You show it with a breaker. There is no power needed. I don't think you can light it dependant on switch position because there is no +12v being switched.
You could use an Independant illuminated ON-ON. I'm assuming you still need the switch for fuel gauge and can't read both on a MFD or CL7.

 

[Hookup1]

I was not suggesting fusing the Nav/Anc separately from the switch panel. That would cause complications with using it to light the other switches.

New Wire refers to illumination lamps as "Independant", meaning they are powered independant of switch position. "Dependant "indicate ON and are powered by the circuit itself.


what I was refering to was the "Independant " illumination of the switches.

Often the Nav/anchor switch is not "illuminated" it just indicates on. It is used to turn on the illumination of the other switches. It is a non-illuminated ON/OFF/ON with jumpers.
If you use the Dimmer off of the Nav/anchor, it won't dim the nav/anchor

The dimmer controls the"Independant" (pin 8 & 7) Illumination brightnes but not the "Dependant" ON indicator brightness

Read thru New Wires site because you may need to order a different switch (an Independant illuminated ON/OFF/ON) for the Nav/anc.

Your Fuel Gauge switch is another point for some thought. The old one was not powered, nor illuminated. It switched the pink and the pink/white sender wire to the gauge SENDER terminal.
You show it with a breaker. There is no power needed. I don't think you can light it dependant on switch position because there is no +12v being switched.
You could use an Independant illuminated ON-ON. I'm assuming you still need the switch for fuel gauge and can't read both on a MFD or CL7.

The single position switches wire the "on" light in. The dual position switches leave the wiring to you. Top and bottom row are lighting. Top row is used for backlighting.


Typically the gauge and panel lights are tied into the NAV lights. When the NAV lights are turned on the panel backlights are on. The NAV lights are powered from the breaker which is on the "+" jumper buss.

The dimmer can be powered from the NAV light terminal and backlighting chain powered from the dimmer. The backlighting has no effect on the NAV/ANC lights.

The NAV/Anc can be done with 2-wires (blocking diode and flip polarity) or with 3- wires (NAV light, ANC light and ground).

SkunkBoat - Do you find the indicator lights to be too bright as well? I'm trying to figure out if/how to dim them along with the backlight.

Not really happy with how the Contura switches splash so much light around. Really should have frame around them.

 

[Hookup1]

Which colors did you select? Does it light the panel up like this? I'm really trying to avoid all the light leaking out from under the switch.



I did see a Carling VM6-01 mounting panel. Puts the switches next to each other and wraps the edge. Mounts in switch panel. May be a better open for me.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Mine are the far left. Red. The diffuse light from under them is not bad.

The red is not terrible. But a dimmer would help. I drive for hours in the dark

There is no way to dim the dependent lights because they use the 12v that is being sent to your devices

 

[Halfhitch]

Back in the years when I still worked, we sometimes had instruments, lighted switches, compasses and such in the wheelhouse of our tugs that were too bright. Depending on the layout of the helm the level of brightness was very hard on the skipper. We would often change out the 12v bulbs with 24v ones and it made the light much dimmer. This was of course incandescent bulbs.

 

[Ky Grady]

Almost there.

Finally got some time to work on the panel today. Have a wiper issue trying to get them to both run when switch is on "both". They run individually, but not together. I'm sure I'm missing something simple. Everything else works as it did with the new panel. I have a little trim work to do on the side panel to drop the switch panel in. Nothing a little Dremel work can't cure. Need to pick up a couple of well nuts also, have 2 missing.

 

[Hookup1]

The wiper swipe switch should be a double pole double throw switch with center position "off". The center terminals are common and wired to a "hot" 12 volts.

Two wire comes back to the panel - one for each wiper motor. Both go to "switched" side of the wiper switch. One side has a jumper to the other side of the switch.

This way in one position one wiper works and in the other position both wipers work. Hot that helps.