nav lights switch replacement

fshlbi

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I have a 93 escape and the nav lights were not working this spring, upon commissioning. I opened the panel and noticed on of the terminals on the switch had cracked. I found an on/off/on switch that had the same footprint to replace it and attempted to rewire everything just as it was prior. I labeled as I took it apart. However, now I can get the stern light to light in both positions, as it should. Still no nav lights. When I took it apart, there appeared to be a mid post to mid post jumper as well as the black grounds jumping from switch to switch. When I hook these up as I thought they were prior, the circuit breaker pops. Which makes sense to me, since I cannot understand how you would have power jumping sides and grounds connected up top. I am wondering if anyone had a picture of the set up on a similar boat? I had a friend of mine who is an EE (though admittedly not a boater) look and help. best we can get is stern light to light in both positions. but only if the ground wires on the top starboard switch post are NOT connected. If we connect those, the breaker pops almost immediately.
 

SkunkBoat

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The ground wire on pin 7 is for the illumination of the switch.
This is a typical Nav/Anchor config on a 7 pin Contura switch. If you are putting ground on any pin other than 7 you will pop breaker

If you have an 8 pin switch the 8th pin (next to 7) is "Illumination +12v". Sometimes switch illumination is controlled separately by a On/OFF Dimmer

Screen Shot 2021-05-01 at 6.25.39 PM.png
 
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fshlbi

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The ground wire on pin 7 is for the illumination of the switch.
This is a typical Nav/Anchor config on a 7 pin Contura switch. If you are putting ground on any pin other than 7 you will pop breaker

If you have an 8 pin switch the 8th pin (next to 7) is "Illumination +12v". Sometimes switch illumination is controlled separately by a On/OFF Dimmer

View attachment 20404
Thank you for this. Gradys switch only had six pins. As does the one I replaced it with. Although since your reply is so clear I may go back and purchase one with 7 IDK
In this pic the switch is the second in from the left but when I duplicate it, it pops the jumper like you said plus I still get no nav lights 2C846DFF-7677-4CF1-81DC-148903E42737.jpeg
 

SkunkBoat

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Please post a pic of the front of the switch. You might have the old "Oval Euro" switch. If so, a new Contura switch will not fit without widening ...and it will look very different.

If you have the old euro switches you should consider replacing all. They were crap.
 

DennisG01

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Did your new switch come with a wiring diagram? But, and maybe I'm not thinking this fully through, with the power disconnected, I think you should be able to ID the common + posts (line in), the load posts (to the lights) and the ground using a DMM on ohms. Once you know what post is what post, hook up your wires accordingly.
 
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fshlbi

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Please post a pic of the front of the switch. You might have the old "Oval Euro" switch. If so, a new Contura switch will not fit without widening ...and it will look very different.

If you have the old euro switches you should consider replacing all. They were crap.
all the switches seem to be working well except for the lack of power to the nav lights. that being said, boat is a 93 so there are some issues with aging....
I know the one post is getting power to the stern light. I connected what I believe to be the nav lights wire to that and still nothing up front. I'm thinking maybe the ground up front has corroded. I have taken off the light assemblies and all seems to be where it should. I need a course in multimeter usage... LOL