Need Advice on Trailer Brakes.

[hotajax]

Good evening, and hope the new year is working out for you. I have a LoadRite trailer with disc brakes. Two of the four wheels are locking up and will not release when backing. I would like to replace the all the stuff made by Tie-Down Engineering, as it only looks good in the showroom, but not where it counts.

1. Can any of you gents recommend a stainless steel set? I remember a discussion I read somewhere about Kodiak brand, as I recall. But my recall may be defective.

2. If some of the brakes are not releasing, is this a problem at the disc itself? Or, could it be the actuator? Is the Tie Down actuator worthy of the trash can as well?gh

3. Recommendations on where to purchase a high quality set?

I thank you in advance for your suggestions.

 

[grady23]

The piston on the wheel(s) that are stuck and not releasing are likely rusted in place. Sometimes you can take the caliper off and force high pressure air thru them and get them to release. Usually not -- I tried. As for the Kodiak brakes, the warranty is the same and the is ZERO -- NONE -- NADA coverage for corrosion PERIOD.. I put the Kodiak calumet coated rotors and the stainlees steel piston calipers. Kodiak is supposed to have an ALL stainless caliper but the warranty is still the same. I have found that most of the problems come with disc brakes and brakes in general is lack of use. I spray mine down with Salt-Away every time it goes in to salt water. I still had one freeze up last year and it was only 2 seasons old and had been dunked about 8 times. I can't see buying the more expensive brake assemblys if the warranty is going to be the same . I even make sure that I pull forward and release the pressure on the master cylinder when I pasrk the trailer.

 

[Parthery]

Tie Downs are garbage. Look for either Kodiak or Deemaxx.

Best place to buy is Eastern Marine. Good prices and every helpful.

 

[DennisG01]

I work part time at a marina and we primarily see the Kodiak, Tie-Down, UFP and Titan brands. I can tell you that neither one stands out compared to the other. Both are fine products and both are good companies to deal with. As mentioned above, the #1 thing that kills brakes is limited or non-use, along with not flushing after salt water. If a trailer sits most of the year, it's pretty much guaranteed to have brake problems. The people that do primarily trailer boating rarely have brake issues.


On Edit: Forgot about UFP and Titan - added to the above.

 

[Salinity Now]

I had a very similar issue last year, gutted all 3 sets of Tiedown CRAP for two sets of Deemaxx & converted to electric over hydraulic. The difference is night and day.

Nothing but good things to say for the Deemax and I used a Dexter EOH actuator that I really like.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I can't see buying the more expensive brake assemblys if the warranty is going to be the same.

I thought the same thing. Truth is, I first bought the cheaper warranty product and used the warranty, then bought the high dollar stuff and never needed the warranty. Nothing will last forever in saltwater environment, but Kodiak stainless will outlast anything not stainless when a preventive maintenance plan is in place. Washdown and use are the keys, as mentioned. Mine sits 6 months of the year, but every month or so I hook up every month or so during the off-season, run it around a long block making multiple stops. Seven years on my brakes, 3 sets of pads (twice due to rusted clips, stainless are now available), stainless rotors turned once, one caliper overhaul one time, aside from annual removal/inspection and re-grease pins ... :wink:

 

[noXcuse]

Same thing was happening on my Load Rite. I pulled the drums off, and turned out, the idiot that owned my boat previously had the adjusters way too tight. Might check that before dropping the money on new setups.

 

[gerrys]

OP says brakes locking while backing up.

OP: Can you confirm that it's only happening while backing?

If that's the case, It's more than likely either the wiring to the lockout solenoid or a bad solenoid. You should check that you have power to the solenoid when the vehicle is in reverse and you should hear a click when the vehicle is placed into reverse.

 

[DennisG01]

OP says brakes locking while backing up.

OP: Can you confirm that it's only happening while backing?

If that's the case, It's more than likely either the wiring to the lockout solenoid or a bad solenoid. You should check that you have power to the solenoid when the vehicle is in reverse and you should hear a click when the vehicle is placed into reverse.

He mentioned that it's only happening on 2 of the 4 wheels. "Assuming" he has brakes on both axles, it won't be the solenoid.

 

[noXcuse]

OP says brakes locking while backing up.

OP: Can you confirm that it's only happening while backing?

If that's the case, It's more than likely either the wiring to the lockout solenoid or a bad solenoid. You should check that you have power to the solenoid when the vehicle is in reverse and you should hear a click when the vehicle is placed into reverse.

My fault. I completely missed that part.

I assume they are surge brakes? If so, the master cylinder needs to be blocked before you backup. If not, they'll lockup. Are you sure both axles have brakes? My Load Rite trailer only has brakes on the front axle.

 

[hotajax]

OP says brakes locking while backing up.

OP: Can you confirm that it's only happening while backing?

If that's the case, It's more than likely either the wiring to the lockout solenoid or a bad solenoid. You should check that you have power to the solenoid when the vehicle is in reverse and you should hear a click when the vehicle is placed into reverse.

My fault. I completely missed that part.

I assume they are surge brakes? If so, the master cylinder needs to be blocked before you backup. If not, they'll lockup. Are you sure both axles have brakes? My Load Rite trailer only has brakes on the front axle.

Thanks for responding. Yes, they are surge brakes. I have brakes on both axles, 4 brake lines to all, discs on all. Sometimes, if the boat has been sitting for a while and I hook up the wiring harness to the trailer, before I dunk the trailer, I can back without the brakes hanging up. But, if I take it around to the other side of the marina where the ramp is (that is attaching the wiring harness and applying the brakes during transit), I must put the pin in the tongue to keep the tongue from driving backwards into the master cylinder. And it still may bind up.

A question for those who know better: if some of the brakes are releasing, do I have a brake problem or an acuator problem?

Another question: how to check if the reverse lockout is working? Which color wire is it that is connected to the backup lights?

Thank you for responding. The trailer does sit unused for months at a time. What is the best product to spray on the calipers - Salt Away or some kind of penetrating oil?

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks for responding. Yes, they are surge brakes. I have brakes on both axles, 4 brake lines to all, discs on all. Sometimes, if the boat has been sitting for a while and I hook up the wiring harness to the trailer, before I dunk the trailer, I can back without the brakes hanging up. But, if I take it around to the other side of the marina where the ramp is (that is attaching the wiring harness and applying the brakes during transit), I must put the pin in the tongue to keep the tongue from driving backwards into the master cylinder. And it still may bind up.

A question for those who know better: if some of the brakes are releasing, do I have a brake problem or an acuator problem?

Another question: how to check if the reverse lockout is working? Which color wire is it that is connected to the backup lights?

Thank you for responding. The trailer does sit unused for months at a time. What is the best product to spray on the calipers - Salt Away or some kind of penetrating oil?

The blue wire on your trailer's connector is for the solenoid. Just put 12v to it any way you want to and listen for the clicking. You can flip the connectors 90* and use the lighting lead or even a portable jump pack. To see if you have 12v coming out of your truck, just test for power at the appropriate pin on the truck-side connector (that matches to the blue wire on the trailer-side) when the vehicle is in reverse. The truck will be in reverse with you behind it - take obvious precautions!

If only some brakes are showing problems, the problem can not be the coupler. The problem must be between the "T" fitting (in the line that goes to the brake) and the brake.

-- When was the last time the brake lines were flushed?
-- Do you have all hard lines, or some rubber lines? Rubber lines can fail on the inside creating a check-valve of sorts which, in essence, prevents the pads from releasing.
-- Something (crap) could be caught up in the line/caliper - back to the "flush" issue
-- What's the condition of the fluid in the MC?
-- If none of this works, disassemble the caliper and take a look at it and the pins.

Once you get this figured out, SaltAway is great for flushing them. After they dry, if it's going to be sitting for a while, give it all (discs included) a quick/light coat of spray paint. The paint will rub off the discs quickly and won't affect the pads.

 

[wrxhoon]

I only use Kodiak S/S brakes ( I believe D-max are just as good but I don't have first hand experience), I have installed them in many trailers here in AU, some of them over 7 years old now, Never had any problems with them other than worn pads and worn rotors. S/S rotors are foster than steel ans will wear out quicker. In the past the backing pad plates would rust out before the pads wear out but I have been using pads with S/S backing plates in the last 2 years. Don't muck around with any other brakes Full S/S sets are not very expensive. http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com Their normal price is $635 per kit to do one axle, Rotors, calipers, pads and brackets all S/S , at times you can get 10-20% discount.
I use Dexter or Hydrastar actuators, in AU we have to have electric over hydraulic on all trailers weighing over 2000 kg ( 4400 lb) ATM.
If you can't afford the full S/S at least use S/S calipers and just before you store the trailer for winter ( we use them all year around here) after you wash the trailer drive it around to get the brakes hot so they dry out then spray the rotors with some fishoil.

 

[ROBERTH]

Just to add .02cents to this one, and this is a largely debated subject...don't believe me check this out on THT, but a few years ago, Tied Down came out with the new G5 brake system. Largely, Tie Down was getting hell from everyone on crap brakes, but they reengineered and came out with this new version. This is their writeup on them:
SS rotor, single piston aluminum caliper, patented bi-metal aluminum/ stainless piston, oil impregnated bronze bushings, ceramic pads with stainless steel backing plates, stainless steel slider pins, bearings and seals, galvanized mounting bracket.

I had tried the Kodiak's on my older trailer and they failed first year. It was the coated rotor, forget..think it was Dacromat or something, but the rotor was so rusted, it had craters in it. Should have gone with the SS, but dang they are expensive.

Picked up the Grady and it needed an overhaul on the 2004 model year Road King Trailer brakes and lines. So I contacted Eastern and they recommended the G5's. I checked more into them and then made the purchase. Very low price compared to like product line in Kodiak brand. First year, single axle brakes. Did find in first year, but realized this big of a boat really needed dual axle brakes, so got the kit and another set of G5's. Noticed when putting on the second set, I had already run through a set of pads on the first axle, so contacted TieDown and they sent me a new set for free. All I had to do was send in the worn one's. Part of their lifetime replacement warranty on the pads. Not a bad deal.
Now, after a season on the new pads and second axle brakes, no issues and pads look fine so far.

In both cases for older trailer and this one, I am always very religious to rinse the back and front sides behind the wheels to ensure I can get fresh water rinse to the brakes and rotors. So never treated either one differently.

If money is no object, go for the Kodiak's, but so far, my G5's are holding up fine. If I can get through 3-4 seasons like this, I will be very impressed! Looking at the current condition a month ago while under the trailer with a flashlight, I looked over them and they were in great shape.

 

[Clockwork]

The weak link is your surge actuator. Scrap that thing and shell out the cash for an electric over hydraulic unit. Surge brakes drag and lock up, etc. Electric over hydraulic is a dream in comparison. Near immediate response, adjustable braking, no slamming when you take off and stop, etc. Cost a little more (about $600) but gives you a legit braking system. Surge brakes are a joke.