I have never had a trolling motor on my 21'. Can anyone help me? What shaft length should I get on the trolling motor? The boat is currently out of the water. I can make a guess, but I would prefer to get input from others that have some experience in this area.
Need info for a new trolling motor
- Thread starter Jcroke
- Start date
I have a F8 high thrust on my 208 with 25" leg. It is on a fixed kicker bracket. Clears the water when up and gets a good bite just below the transom on running.
SkunkBoat
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2017
- Messages
- 4,508
- Reaction score
- 1,614
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Manasquan Inlet NJ
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Model
- Express 265
now see
I was immediately thinking bow mounted trolling motor...
luckydude
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2020
- Messages
- 1,289
- Reaction score
- 601
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
- Website
- mcvoy.com
- Model
- Seafarer
Lucky, is the Suzuki much quieter than the Yamaha T8 or T9? Have only had Yamaha kickers over the past 20 years.
luckydude
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2020
- Messages
- 1,289
- Reaction score
- 601
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
- Website
- mcvoy.com
- Model
- Seafarer
I dunno, I've never run the Yamaha kickers, when I was looking for one, Yamaha's had carbs while the Suzuki was EFI. It's a 2020 or 2021 model, it is much quieter than same motor 15 years older. Probably more sound insulation, I dunno. It's very pleasant trolling.
If people care, somewhere I have a sound meter, I can measure it.
I installed a new Yamaha high-thrust 9.9 (T9.9XPB) on my 2000 in summer of 2022. Long shaft model and I installed it on a Panther adjustable bracket as shown in photo. Very pleased with how it worked out. I did have to use heavy wall 2 inch aluminum tubing to get standoff beyond transom rub rail. Boat is in storage but happy to help with any questions you may have on setup.
Joe
Joe
I forgot to point out that I also moved the swim ladder from port to starboard side. Batteries are on starboard side of my 2000 Adventure 208 and this gave me weight distribution concerns. That reason plus I did not like the tight turn that control cables would have needed to make to the kicker from splash-well if I went with a starboard side mount. Cables worked fine and I didn't get any water back thru the scuppers and happy with that.
I’m
Langski93
Joe Jr. The part that has the Panther sticker, is that part of the Panther bracket or does that come with the motor. My used boat came with a bracket that looks like yours minus that intermediate piece. If it’s Panther I will reach out to them. Also can you comment: Are you tapped into fuel line off main line or do you have separate tank? Finally, are you directly from helm, steering with main engine only or with an attachment kit? Apologies for so many questions but I like your rig.
Langski93
The Panther sticker is part of the Panther adjustable bracket assembly. It is what the kicker motor clamps onto.
Fuel Line connection.
I do not have a separate tank and instead tapped into main fuel line. Instead of cutting a Tee in the main line line, I decided to replace the the existing fuel/water separator with a new one that has dual output ports. I ran fuel lines from the separator to each motor individually. I am not sure if there was a better way to do this or not, but I wanted to eliminate any chance of the main motor sucking fuel from the kicker and did not want to deal with any shutoff switches under the boat floor. The part number I used is "18-7775 Fuel Filter/Water Separator Bracket 3/8". I bought it from West Marine.
Steering and Controls
As far as kicker rigging is concerned, I ran control cables to the helm and replaced my existing 704 single binnacle control with a dual control. I use left side control for main outboard (F22), and right control for kicker. This was a suggestion made to me on this forum by both Hanke777 and Trapper. It turned out to be a bit of work to pull off for a true novice like me, but I appreciate their advice as it worked out real well. The hardest part was positioning the dual control 704 as there is not a lot of room in the helm of my Adventure. I had to place it just right to not hit the sides or interfere with steering wheel. Regarding steering - I considered multiple options, but decided to start off with a simple snap-on connector rod between main motor and kicker. Cost was less than $30 and worked real well for my needs. I plan on staying with this setup in 2023 season.
I am including some photos that might help explain my final setup and cutout needed to accommodate the dual 704 controls. You can also see where I located key switch for kicker. I would have liked to go with a dual key setup but not enough room to do so. Finally, I should point out that my purpose for connecting the kicker to main outboard was so I could steer with the Lowrance autopilot system that I also installed along with a wireless remote. We can troll all day (Lake Erie) and I only have to return to helm to make trolling speed adjustments. BTW - I also replaced the factory cable steering with Seastar hydraulic as part of overall setup. Hope this helps in some way. Let me know if any other ??
Fuel Line connection.
I do not have a separate tank and instead tapped into main fuel line. Instead of cutting a Tee in the main line line, I decided to replace the the existing fuel/water separator with a new one that has dual output ports. I ran fuel lines from the separator to each motor individually. I am not sure if there was a better way to do this or not, but I wanted to eliminate any chance of the main motor sucking fuel from the kicker and did not want to deal with any shutoff switches under the boat floor. The part number I used is "18-7775 Fuel Filter/Water Separator Bracket 3/8". I bought it from West Marine.
Steering and Controls
As far as kicker rigging is concerned, I ran control cables to the helm and replaced my existing 704 single binnacle control with a dual control. I use left side control for main outboard (F22), and right control for kicker. This was a suggestion made to me on this forum by both Hanke777 and Trapper. It turned out to be a bit of work to pull off for a true novice like me, but I appreciate their advice as it worked out real well. The hardest part was positioning the dual control 704 as there is not a lot of room in the helm of my Adventure. I had to place it just right to not hit the sides or interfere with steering wheel. Regarding steering - I considered multiple options, but decided to start off with a simple snap-on connector rod between main motor and kicker. Cost was less than $30 and worked real well for my needs. I plan on staying with this setup in 2023 season.
I am including some photos that might help explain my final setup and cutout needed to accommodate the dual 704 controls. You can also see where I located key switch for kicker. I would have liked to go with a dual key setup but not enough room to do so. Finally, I should point out that my purpose for connecting the kicker to main outboard was so I could steer with the Lowrance autopilot system that I also installed along with a wireless remote. We can troll all day (Lake Erie) and I only have to return to helm to make trolling speed adjustments. BTW - I also replaced the factory cable steering with Seastar hydraulic as part of overall setup. Hope this helps in some way. Let me know if any other ??
Attachments
-
18-7775.JPG -
IMG_20220811_192931288.jpg -
IMG_20220929_095854477.jpg -
IMG_20220812_164225049-b.jpg
Nicely done Joe, Yes I have the same set up as I think you know, but on a fixed kicker bracket and on the starboard side. Moved both my batteries to the port for balance . Also enjoy the steering and navigation ease that comes with an AP.
Thanks. I am proof that these modifications are within the capabilities of the average boat owner. I never even owned a boat until 2021 when I purchased a 16" Lund. I purchased the Adventure later in 2021 with the intention of hiring a boat mechanic to perform the needed labor. After failing to get a mechanic to even return my calls, I begrudgingly headed down the DIY path. Admittedly, there was a point during the install journey when I regretted not going the route of a tiller model kicker. Thankfully, many hours and YouTube videos later , it all came together.
Mustang65fbk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 2,577
- Reaction score
- 682
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Seattle area
- Model
- Seafarer
I admittedly don't know a whole lot about kicker motors but I do have a few questions as well as bits of insight for those who might be interested in listening. First of all to the OP, you mentioned a 21' boat and your profile says you have an Adventure... so is this a 208 Adventure or the new 218 Adventure? I only ask because I'm not sure what/how you would mount a kicker motor to the Euro style transom on the new 218 Adventure, if that's in fact what you really have.
Second and to the rest of the group as well as the OP, if I were ever to add a kicker motor then I'd likely go with Suzuki or a company that offered EFI in their smaller sized kicker motors. Suzuki makes a 9.9 hp kicker with EFI whereas Yamaha does not, and it isn't until l believe you get up to a 20 hp Yamaha until EFI is an option. Which is a bit strange to me since Suzuki has it, and EFI in my opinion is the better way to go as opposed to carbureted. If carbureted vs EFI doesn't matter to you then go with whatever you want to, Mercury also has a 9.9 hp EFI kicker motor option as well.
Second and to the rest of the group as well as the OP, if I were ever to add a kicker motor then I'd likely go with Suzuki or a company that offered EFI in their smaller sized kicker motors. Suzuki makes a 9.9 hp kicker with EFI whereas Yamaha does not, and it isn't until l believe you get up to a 20 hp Yamaha until EFI is an option. Which is a bit strange to me since Suzuki has it, and EFI in my opinion is the better way to go as opposed to carbureted. If carbureted vs EFI doesn't matter to you then go with whatever you want to, Mercury also has a 9.9 hp EFI kicker motor option as well.
For clarification, I own a 2000 model year Adventure 208 that was repowered by previous owner with a 2017 Yamaha F200 outboard. The high-thrust 9.9 kicker is carburated as you state. This has not been an issue for me. It starts immediately and is very quiet. Yamaha seems to have a knack for making quality outboards and I was more interested in high-thrust features than EFI vs caburation.
Mustang65fbk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 2,577
- Reaction score
- 682
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Seattle area
- Model
- Seafarer
If I were to ever add a kicker motor to my boat it would be the Suzuki, besides it weighing about 6 lbs more than the Yamaha, it appears to have several advantages over the Yamaha. First, as mentioned already it has EFI, of which it is also a bigger motor at 327 cc as opposed to the Yamaha at only 212 cc. The Suzuki also has a larger bore and stroke at 60.4 x 57 mm compared to the Yamaha at 56 x 43mm. Another big thing is that the Suzuki has a 12 amp alternator for the charging system whereas the Yamaha is only 6 amps. Finally, and probably the biggest reason would be the pricing... the Suzuki can be found online for around $2,600-$2,800 depending on the size and application you want, whereas the Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust is around $3,800-$3,900. Just my opinion on the matter of course, if you don't want or care about EFI and want to spend another $1k or more then by all means go with the Yamaha.
DF9.9BTHX4
This Suzuki 9.9 HP electric motor features an extra-long shaft, making it an excellent choice for skiffs, or as auxiliary power for sailboats and kickers for fishing boats.
www.overtons.com
Yamaha 9.9hp High Thrust Outboard | T9.9XPHB
Authorized Yamaha Outboard Dealership. Yamaha's T9.9XPHB High Thrust. Steering: Tiller, Starter: Electric, Shaft: 25" X-Long.
www.boatspecialists.com
For sure, next time around it would be a Susuki although no complaints about the T8's I have had over the last 20 years.
Mustang65fbk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 2,577
- Reaction score
- 682
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Seattle area
- Model
- Seafarer
Agreed. For the cost conscious and/or frugal boater like myself, I always recommend someone at least look at the Suzuki products for their re-power or upgrade. Suzuki's can save them quite a bit of money, especially when you get up to the larger outboards and the price differences are even greater. I think the only advantage that the Yamaha "might have" over the Suzuki would be that it's a "high thrust" motor, though if you're really that worried you could always buy a different sized prop or upgrade to the next largest sized outboard which is the Suzuki 15, it's still only around $3,200 online. And best of all, you're saving $1k or more with Suzuki and... you get a standard 5 year warranty with them as opposed to only a 3 year warranty with Yamaha.
Last edited:
Before I quickly sell my T8 
what would be the push power difference between the 15 hp Susuki and the high thrust 8-9hp Yamaha? I guess it relates to hull speed before planing. My T 8 pushes my 208 about 5-6 mph wide open, which is used very rarely. Since we have auto pilot and iTroll we enjoy sitting on the bow and cruising at moderate kicker speed. The silence and view from up front is a beautiful thing. The windshield blocks almost all kicker noise and view is undisturbed. Yes, it does help hugely to live in the centre of this universe. OK....it is a summer time event.
what would be the push power difference between the 15 hp Susuki and the high thrust 8-9hp Yamaha? I guess it relates to hull speed before planing. My T 8 pushes my 208 about 5-6 mph wide open, which is used very rarely. Since we have auto pilot and iTroll we enjoy sitting on the bow and cruising at moderate kicker speed. The silence and view from up front is a beautiful thing. The windshield blocks almost all kicker noise and view is undisturbed. Yes, it does help hugely to live in the centre of this universe. OK....it is a summer time event.