Need to know what to expect - fiberglass work

[RussGW270]

I know prices can and will be all over the place, but just curious what sort of prices and times etc one might expect to see for fiberglass work. I do not know how much of this work "I" will do vs them, all depends on what they expect to charge to do it.

Examples of the possible work I need/want done are:

1 - Holes made by screws for bimini and radar arch
2 - I removed the stickers etc on the hull and I wanted them to "clean up" the scratches and such in the hull.
3 - Replace/repair the transom cap - I am not sure if they will do this or can do this as I think they would have to remove the motors to flat out replace the metal ca on the Transom. If they can just repair it, and the transom is fine.. well, that would be fone by me. They are really small holes, if they are holes.. may be deep blemishes.

I am going to go over the entire boat with them and give them a list of priorities, and based on the time-frame as well as hourly expected cost, holes are priority #1, and cuts or gashes (to include the transom cap) #2, cleaning/sand/whatever they recommend the places where the stickers were 3rd.

Russ

 

[MA208]

I’m not an expert but:
1 I would consider filling the holes yourself with marine epoxy. Will be functional, maybe not cosmetically perfect but they should be relatively small screw holes. I’ve filled in old holes like this. It’s fine.

2 a good compound followed by waxing should take care of small scratches. Figure $800 for a below rubrail compound and wax on the whole hull at least in my area.

3 I just replaced my transom cap. Around $6500 to pull motors, reglass below the cap and then glass over. Installed new Grady vinyl cap on top. Part was only $75 or so but that’s the small part. Northeast prices tend to be high, so you may be looking at less. It’s not a small job but it’s very important. I didn’t have any water intrusion but you want to get to it before you do as well.

 

[Fishtales]

As stated above I'd start with the holes. Marine Tex fill and then color matched gelcoat. Sand down with progressively finer paper. try it in a few spots out of the way. you may find that this works out just fine.

For the compounding. get a buffer (you going to need one anyway). try different items from Colinite 920 cleaner, to Buff Magic to a light compound to a med and then heavy one (only if needed). this stuff isn't rocket science and you're better off learning how to do it.

The cap is tough. The engines have to come off, so if ok, just neatly seal the edges and screw tops (if desired). Deal with this when you have an engine job.

 

[Heyspike]

As stated above I'd start with the holes. Marine Tex fill and then color matched gelcoat. Sand down with progressively finer paper. try it in a few spots out of the way. you may find that this works out just fine.

For the compounding. get a buffer (you going to need one anyway). try different items from Colinite 920 cleaner, to Buff Magic to a light compound to a med and then heavy one (only if needed). this stuff isn't rocket science and you're better off learning how to do it.

The cap is tough. The engines have to come off, so if ok, just neatly seal the edges and screw tops (if desired). Deal with this when you have an engine job.

I'm with Fishtails on this one. Transom cap will have to wait. I sealed it up with 4200, if I ever replace the motor, I'll deal with it. Mine looked like yours, transom solid, but beat up cap.
As for as screw holes, just patch them yourself.

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, I feel better about the Transom cap now. My thought was to check it.. and then seal it really really well, and save it till the next time the engines come off.. heh

Let me see if I can find close ups of it...

 

[Stephnic]

If I was you I would seriously look at replacing that transom cap. I have an Islander that the cap was like yours. I sealed it every year to ensure no water got it. Went to fix the cap when they removed the engines the fiberglass had completely delaminated. The transom was wet as could be. I replaced the transom and glasses it completely closed. I did not replace the cap and drill holes to start the entire process over again. Because of the material Grady white uses it will not rot but the glass will separate.

 

[RussGW270]

I hear ya... but just spent 50k on the boat, 10k on the top, 3k on new electronics...I need to recover from that before I tell the wife I am spending 4-8k on the thing... heh.

I can seal it and make it a year, then I will do that.

I WILL get it all checked out, just in case, though.

R

 

[Stephnic]

I completely understand that. Make sure you seal the edges good. The water runs down the rub rail drips right down on it. Also check the brass scuppers in the motor well and make sure they are in good shape with no cracks that allow water in.

 

[RussGW270]

Will do, thanks for the insight

 

[Heyspike]

I hear ya... but just spent 50k on the boat, 10k on the top, 3k on new electronics...I need to recover from that before I tell the wife I am spending 4-8k on the thing... heh.

I can seal it and make it a year, then I will do that.

I WILL get it all checked out, just in case, though.

R

Russ I feel the same way, spent all I had on the boat, can't do transom this year. My cap was pretty beat up, I sealed it with 4200. Yes it may need a rebuild in the future , but damn, I'm going to enjoy it this year!

 

[Fishtales]

Russ, totally agree. That is why you have to read up and do some of these things yourself. Otherwise it gets expensive real fast. One thing I've found with boating is there are few one way doors. You can always go back and re-do if you don't get it right.

 

[Newport Grady]

Russ I feel the same way, spent all I had on the boat, can't do transom this year. My cap was pretty beat up, I sealed it with 4200. Yes it may need a rebuild in the future , but damn, I'm going to enjoy it this year!

Regarding the holes, get something called “silica”. It’s a west system additive. It makes expoxy more permanent. I used to repair f glass.

Now if you’ve got the time do 2 fills. Carefully sand flush over the holes. Use up to 1000 grit. You can make it “perfect” and I’ve seen it done. Get gel coat. Your color. Adding silica to this too will age the silica causing it to blend in. I have seen completely holed boats be spot repaired to the point I could not find the hole.

But it takes love. And time.