New Boat. "new to us anyway"

[dale1]

Well, we pulled the trigger on a 2002, 265 Express with f225s. 560 hours on the motors

I'm excited and nervous. being self employed in this economy is scary. However, at 54 we have a short window for good health and fishing years left

I picked up a new trailer in Tampa at Loadmaster on Friday, and picked up the boat in fort Lauderdale on Saturday. Started home and arrive 14 hours later. traffic was brutal this weekend.

the boat is a real beauty. I'll send pictures soon. its bigger than I expected but tows easily. I equate that to a new 15k trailer

I read the owner manual, but still have some questions.

1. After plugging in the shore power, I get no indication on the battery charger. I want to charge the batteries and have nothing else running. is that possible?
2. Can I turn off the frig while on shore power?
3. does the boat have an inverter, or is it built into the charger?
4. where do you fill the toilet water supply.
5. Which fuel tank is preferred. or do you use both?
6. anything else you can think of weird about the 265?
7. can I get new curtains already made?. facts at the begging of the forum don't the 265 listed?

Thanks ahead of time for all the tips and info.
dale

 

[fishbust]

Check your AC breaker panel switches for battery charger and microwave.
Not likely an inverter. Fridge has dual power supply on most boats.
Toilet rinse water is usually valved in the hull to use salt water but some people do convert to using a freshwater tank because of the smell. I did this on my last boat and it was a big improvement.

Good luck with the boat! Those expresses are good looking boats. Yes post back some pics!

 

[dale1]

Thank you. Any input on how to replumb the toilet appreciated. Dale. We have a 5 hour pull to the coast. we often use the boat bathroom

 

[Fishtales]

Hi,

The feelings are normal after any big purchase. No need to worry at this point, you are in the game.

Not familiar with this exact model, but here is some info to get you started...
- Check for a galvanic isolator. This is usually mounted under the gunnel just up from the shore power connector. Ensure the breaker is on. If off, you won't see any power downstream from it.
- I believe most of the electrical panels have an led indicating shore power is connected and correct polarity. Some of the newer cords have a green indicator on the cord end that plugs into the boat as well to indicate that power from the dock is avail at the cord end.
- Check the battery switches if using anything other than AC. These will interrupt most of the 12v items.
- Refrige usually runs on either AC first then DC or just DC. You can turn it off by either opening the breaker on the panel or turning the knob inside the fridge to off (it should switch off and then have numbers for cold setting).
- No inverter that I'm aware of.
- Head supply is either fresh or salt. If fresh, the feed is from the main freshwater supply. If you have water in the system you should have it to the head. If a manual pump system, these are likely saltwater fed through a thru hull.
- For fuel, I would run one engine (assuming twins) off each tank. If a single outboard, then pick one and alternate.
- The enclosure can be made by any good canvas shop. If you want to try the GW Supplier, call A&J Canvas (google in NC). If they made the original, provide them your hull number and they can fabricate a new set. My guess is $2.5-$3K depending upon canvas and glass material.

Good luck with the new boat!

 

[ocnslr]

Congrats on the "new" Grady.

Don't know where you are located, but check for a Grady-White Owner's Club in your area. Lots of good folks, and a great way to get information on your boat.

Brian

 

[Parthery]

Congratulations...be sure to post pics....

 

[dale1]

Thanks.

Verified that the toilet
Think I figured out the battery charger. Not sure. The Starboard side is charging but the Port Side is not. No lights on the battery charger? Will check with meter later.

The boat did not come with anything. Dock lines, fire ext. etc.
Im going to need an anchor and anchor road. any suggestions appreciated. The windlass works.

Dale

 

[dale1]

Thanks.

Verified that the toilet the water comes from the bottom. Will work on that later.

Think I figured out the battery charger. Not sure. The Starboard side is charging but the Port Side is not. No lights on the battery charger? Will check with meter later.

The boat did not come with anything. Dock lines, fire ext. etc.
Im going to need an anchor and anchor road. any suggestions appreciated. The windlass works.

Dale

 

[Salinity Now]

Congrats on a great boat!!

I don't have ac power (wish I did) so I can't help there.

Toilet I'd definently raw water, I have a 4 year old, several times she "had to go" at ramp etc, I just used the water hose to fill and flush toilet, the sink in the head is on a hose so you can aim it over the toilet.

I would worry about plumbing it to your freshwater tank, that toilet plunder/flush pump works on a series of valves, I'd be worried if the toilet ever didn't flush and some how you could accidentally get toilet bowl eater back into the tank, just seems like an unnecessary risk.

As for tanks, I use aux tank first on offshore trips ( both motors on one tank), it gets weight off the stern as you make your way out, plus it's 120, fwd tank is 130 gallons, so "just in case" you run out......you got an extra 10 gallons in your next tank to switch over too. Prudence would obviously be better to just keep an eye on fuel levels and know your range. But hey, things happen and it's just something I do for an extra step.

Congrats, enjoy.

 

[dale1]

Ok. Thanks

What about an anchor. Which style works best with the grady? Thanks again. Dale

 

[Fowl Hooked]

Dale,

Congrats on a great boat, I've had mine for going on three years and love it.

When I got my boat one of the indicator lights on the charger was broken, previous owner never had it on shore power or I know he would've fixed it, turns out the charger itself was damaged as well and I boiled both batteries that first summer. Replaced the batteries, put in a new Guest charger and no problems since.

Fridge on my boat is straight DC and while I thought about upgrading it I did a lot of reading and researching first and came to the conclusion that if on a good charger the batteries can be under load while taking a charge without issue so I just leave the fridge on. Have done it this way the last two years without any issues and there's no carrying drinks each time I want to go out, or if I'm just going down to hang out on the boat the beer is already cold.

No inverter on my boat, outlets only work on shore power. You could probably carry on a small inverter that plugs into a 12v outlet if you just wanted to run a TV or game system for the kids.

Anchor type will depend more on the bottom where you usually anchor as some types hold better in sand, some in mud and others in rocks. A lot of information on the web about this subject but in all cases a good length of chain (believe mine is 20 feet) between the anchor and the rode is critical to proper anchor setting. Rode and chain size will be determined by your windlass and the manual should tell you what diameters will work. I'm in the Chesapeake Bay and use a plow type anchor, have had zero problems holding thus far but I do also carry a Fortress fluke anchor as a backup or to use as a second anchor if needed.

Best of luck.

Brett

 

[dale1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgMswZvMnwc

Check out the video above. The wife and I splashed her today for the first time. Nothing like a husband and wife at the ramp. we went to lake Sinclair for the first trip. I wanted land on both sides today

Problems. the left side tach is controlled by the right motor, and visa versa? that's not right? is it? should I just move the wires over between the instruments?

?? The control cables are very stiff. felt like something was going to break. I'm going to change them myself. any input appreciated. who makes the best cable.

?? 6 thousand rpms and 41 MPH. is that about right? had about 1/4 throttle left but did not want to spin the motors over 6 grand. 2002 f-225s. 560 hours.

When I turned the front bilge pump, I got some water out of the port side?? It would only run while on. should the switch be on all the time. I was under the impression the bilge pumps were on all the time??

She is a beautiful boat. Just need curtains on the 46 degree day.

 

[eppem]

Dale,

I have an 03 with over 1,000 hours on the engines - if you want to chat about anything, let me know, etc. I can PM you my cell or email me at mike@diversemm.com.

Great boat and congrats.

EPPE

 

[Parthery]

The bilge pump is controlled by a float switch or a manual override...when you flipped it on, you hit the manual override and the pump started pumping.

Check the float and as long as it's working, you can leave the switch in auto mode....when the water gets high enough, the bilge pump will kick on.

That's odd that the tachs are connected backwards....but unplug each one and plug it into the other and that should fix that problem.

6000 rpm is max recommended RPM...once you get the cables replaced check again. Sounds about right.

I'd stick with the Yamaha cables...they are as good as any and will connect the easiest.

Good looking rig....congrats.

 

[max366]

I have a '04 with the same engines as you, so my hull has a bit less deadrise then yours, but 41 mph at 6K sounds low. Mine will hit about 49 mph with 2 people and 3/4 full gas. Did you check the speed on the GPS or just the Yam gauge (which are notoriously inaccurate)?

Good luck with the purchase- it's a great, versatile boat. I just wish I didn't have to put it away for 7 months!

 

[Capt Bill]

Congrats on your new Grady. Before you order new throttle cables, I suggest you disconnect them at the engines, and see if the throttles are still stiff. It may be binding at the throttle linkage on the engines. A good cleaning, and small amount of new grease may be all you need. Also worth checking, is to disconnect them (more work at the binnacle, to be sure that the problem isn't the binnacle. There is also a tension adjuxtment in the binnacle, which I doubt is the whole problem, but may be contributing. Good luck.

 

[dale1]

thanks again for all the input. that's a great idea about discoing the cables at the motor to try first.

which anchor came on the boat, or which type works well with this set up? I had a Danforth on my last boat but it would not always self launch.

Is there a place to purchase a set of curtains like factory. great lakes boat top could not help with this boat.

thanks again, dale

 

[Capt Bill]

Dale, my boat came with curtains in the cabin, but it is a Sailfish. SUggest you call Grady C/S and ask if they had curtains available for your model. If not, you could always have a local seamstress/upholstery shop make a set. My wife goes to Joannes' Babrics for most of her sewing stuff, and so I know there are people working there that will do small jobs like this.

Cabin curtains shouldn't be a hard job. I think anyone with a sewing machine and reasonable skills could make them.

 

[ROBERTH]

Dale, take the time to contact A&J Canvas. I took my boat to them last year and they redid the curtains and installed for me, but they can take any existing curtains and remake a new set. If they still have the original template from that model, they can just make them and ship them to you.
They did an excellent job for me. I had them customize the sides though so that it would be one large zipper so I could get more ventilation and not have to remove the curtains. Pic shows what I mean on how to make the side so you can roll up just part of the panel for ventilation.

 

[dale1]

Thank you. I will
That looks nice.