New Grady owner...

[Evan B]

Hi folks- found Great Grady while doing a bit of research on my new to me 192 Tournament. Thought I’d say hello.

The boat I just picked up is a 1998. Has a same model year Yamaha 175 carbed 2stroke on it. This boat has sat for YEARS. I’m guessing at least 10, if not more. Last registered in 2009
Good news it was shrink wrapped and winterized. Everything seems to be in good shape, considering. Waiting on a cover before I cut off the wrap.
Going to drain fuel, check and replace lines, spray a little lube in the cylinders and turn it by hand to make sure it’s not bound up or corroded. LU oil, filters, separator etc....Hoping the carbs aren’t full of goo. Oil system check, water pump, and on and on. Lol. Already went through trailer brakes, bearings, and rewired the lights. Tows well!

Anyway, look forward to participating. Already found some useful info!

 

[trapper]

Evan. welcome to the most helpful band of brothers you will find on any forum. Many very knowledgable and willing to share.

 

[Gulffisher]

Welcome! I too recently had the pleasure of resuscitating (two) long-sitting outboards. One an old 2-stroke Evinrude and another a newer 140 zuki. The Evinrude carbs needed cleaning out old gunk and the floats were set as if the last to service it might have had a few too many cases of beer. The throttle and timing advance linkages were fortunately not too worn and were adjusted reasonably correctly. The thermostat needed to be removed and cleaned a bit as It was sticking. The fuel line ahead of the external filter/separator housing was totally clogged with sediment/gunk but nothing several blasts of compressed air couldn't handle. When I changed the oil, the lower unit gear oil looked and smelled new with no trace of water so I know the seals are good for now (they may fail after heating up, but will see). The water pump delivered a decent stream and since I know the heat sensor is working (from thermostat issue) I decided to hold off replacing the water pump. The oil injection had been bypassed many years ago, so all I need do is add oil to the fuel and go. I hope yours is similarly as easy.

Given your description of trailer work already performed, you likely already know but I thought I might share anyway. I assume the battery(ies) are either gone or at least dead/defective and will likely be replaced with new. Both ends of engine and accessory wiring (at battery and at fuse/breaker or device) might be corroded. Spade type connectors are especially prone to corrosion. You may see 12V on a circuit when you test without any load but corroded connections may cause so much voltage drop you may have no voltage when a load is applied. I assume you will test pumps and nav lighting. Unless electronics (assuming boat has any) are newer, you might just remove and toss. I have had some limited success lubricating steering/shift/throttle cables but you might want to replace yours if OE (newer ones are somewhat better now). If steering is hydraulic, your cylinder seals may leak and the helm pump may be gunked-up (the shaft seal may leak after some use). Make sure to look for leaking through hull penetrations (if any) including at all hose connections, even drain hoses, if any. Assuming you have power tilt and trim, you may need to replace those cylinder seals too. Don't forget to remove the prop and look for fishing line, etc. and lube the splines.

Enjoy!

 

[luckydude]

I had a carbed 150 2 stroke that I couldn't make work. The next guy figured out the fuel lines were rotting from the inside, outside looked fine. I'd think about replacing the fuel lines.

 

[Gulffisher]

I had a carbed 150 2 stroke that I couldn't make work. The next guy figured out the fuel lines were rotting from the inside, outside looked fine. I'd think about replacing the fuel lines.

The inside layer of old rubber hose can delaminate. While I haven't had the problem on one of my boats yet (likely because I have replace fuel lines, just because), I had a 1986 Jeep CJ7 and one of the brakes was always locked-up. I had a worn-out brake line with an inside delamination and it created a "check-valve" of sorts and would not allow brake fluid to return to the cylinder reservoir. My decision on such boating expenses is the following...how much would I pay someone to come get me so I don't spend a few days on the water in nasty weather!

 

[oldrusty]

Hey welcome Evan, from your description above it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done to get in the water. Don't forget all the safety items and checks. You picked a great site for help and information. Lots of good guys here to help.
Dennis

 

[Evan B]

Thanks all.

I have a fair idea of what needs done to get going, but sure do appreciate all the advice. I’m sure I’ll miss or over look a dozen or two things.

I’m pretty used to old boats. My last was a 1978 Formula 233. Loved the boat, great hull, and it was in remarkably good shape for its age.

After I get the new boat going will be looking at a sonar/gps unit, adding a ski pylon, and maybe a few center rod holders.
Live next to lake Wylie so most use will be in fresh water. Fishing and skiing/tubes etc... Am looking forward to trying some near shore fishing at the coast when everything is ironed out.

 

[Gulffisher]

Does SC still have that silly boat tax? I have some friends there, or might have been NC, who complained several years aso of some fairly significant tax they were required to pay to register and use their boats. We have one here in Florida but it isn't too terrible high.

 

[Evan B]

They don’t make it easy, or cheap, to bring in a vehicle or vessel.

5% or $500 casual excise tax.

 

[Coastboater]

Does SC still have that silly boat tax? I have some friends there, or might have been NC, who complained several years aso of some fairly significant tax they were required to pay to register and use their boats. We have one here in Florida but it isn't too terrible high.

They do, indeed. Sales tax is capped @ $500, which is nice, but to register it you have to pay personal property tax first. To give you an example of their out of whack valuations, they valued the hull alone, without engine, @ $140k for a Freedom 215!!! That doesn’t count the engine, which is taxed separately.
I did challenge the valuation, which was accepted by the county. You can contest valuation with a recent bill of sale, a valuation from a dealer or marine surveyor.

 

[seasick]

If the canvas, plastic curtains and cushions were left on a shrink wrapped boat that sat outside in the sun, I would expect a lot of baked materials.

A word of caution: If you need to work on the carbs and you most likely will have to, do not change any of the adjustments on the throttle linkage at the carbs ) There is one you can adjust, the master idle speed screw but avoid adjusting it until you have no other issues other than an out of sec idle speed). If you do, you may have a heck of a time trying to re-sync them. In order to do that task correctly, you will really need a 6 port manometer and adapter fittings

 

[Evan B]

They do, indeed. Sales tax is capped @ $500, which is nice, but to register it you have to pay personal property tax first. To give you an example of their out of whack valuations, they valued the hull alone, without engine, @ $140k for a Freedom 215!!! That doesn’t count the engine, which is taxed separately.
I did challenge the valuation, which was accepted by the county. You can contest valuation with a recent bill of sale, a valuation from a dealer or marine surveyor.

Oi. Haven’t registered it yet. I don’t remember what they hit me for when I registered my vehicles. Just that they were less than helpful.
I suppose I’ll find out soon enough.

 

[Evan B]

Got the Baby Grady out on the lake today!

New fluids and filters, lubed up the cylinders with some 2stroke oil, little carb cleaning and confirmed the oil tank pump worked. A fresh set of plugs and started it off a remote tank of premix in the yard. Ran like a champ!

Checked the tank, which was clean and dry, put in 20gl of non-ethanol and took it to the lake. She struggled to start. Should have replaced the lines from the tank to the filter. After a minute of missing and sputtering she ran like a raped ape!

Put an hour and a half on the motor tooling around. It quickly got on plane and maxed around 5600rpm. 41 mph on the gauge.

I’ll replace those lines. Pretty sure they are deteriorating.
it was great to get it out and running though.

Need to replace the tilt ram seals, get some cushions redone, and I think it’ll be GTG. For now at least! New radio, sonar/gps, etc.. to come.

Happy New Year, all!

 

[A&J Outdoors]

Welcome to the group, enjoy the process.

 

[seasick]

Got the Baby Grady out on the lake today!

New fluids and filters, lubed up the cylinders with some 2stroke oil, little carb cleaning and confirmed the oil tank pump worked. A fresh set of plugs and started it off a remote tank of premix in the yard. Ran like a champ!

Checked the tank, which was clean and dry, put in 20gl of non-ethanol and took it to the lake. She struggled to start. Should have replaced the lines from the tank to the filter. After a minute of missing and sputtering she ran like a raped ape!

Put an hour and a half on the motor tooling around. It quickly got on plane and maxed around 5600rpm. 41 mph on the gauge.

I’ll replace those lines. Pretty sure they are deteriorating.
it was great to get it out and running though.

Need to replace the tilt ram seals, get some cushions redone, and I think it’ll be GTG. For now at least! New radio, sonar/gps, etc.. to come.

Happy New Year, all!

When you ran on the portable tank, did you connect through the water separator or did you bypass it?
If so and you also had replaced the water separator filter, did you prime ( using the primer bulb)?
If not, most likely the difficulty in starting on the main tank was just priming the system. After any fuel system work, you should squeeze the primer bulb ( a lot) until it feels firm.

The fact that after the motor started, it ran like a champ says that the lines are not blocked and not sucking air.
Have fun.

 

[Evan B]

SS- I did indeed bypass the filter/separator to run on the remote tank.

When I hooked it up to the main tank I filled the new filter with gas before spinning it on and pumped the bejeebus out of the bulb Hopefully next time she lights off a little quicker. May need to work on my 2stroke starting technique!

One thing I was looking for but couldn’t find is the recommended max rpm? I’m guessing the 5600 is pretty close to where it should be but haven’t found any concrete numbers?