Hi everyone ! I believe my boat (268 Islander) has a problem that's common for that model: The Hatch (about 46" x 43") above the fuel tank has a soft spot; but the top has no cracks at all, I had someone today who gave a price to re-core it- $750.00. What do you guys think about this quote, and the most important: Am I able to buy a new hatch (instead of fixing the old one)? and if so, Where ? Thanks.
New Hatch for Islander.
- Thread starter Cadeco
- Start date
I had my 268 deck plate done around 7 years ago for $300 so that’s probably not a bad price. Just make sure you seal the two inspection plates very good. Also, once you have the plate off check the tops of the stringers. Mine were fiberglassed all the way up the sides about an 1/2 inch over the top of the stringer but the top was never glasses. It created a channel over the bare wood of the stringers that the water just sat in and rotted them.
It's not really a problem that's specific to a 268 - it's a problem that's specific to any boat with a cored hatch - and especially older ones that may have had previous owner's putting holes in it and not sealing it properly... or owners not regularly re-sealing the access plates. In other words, typically due to lack of maintenance. But, this means there is tons of information about re-coring a hatch available for searching/reading. There's plenty even just on this site that you can search for.
No, buying a new one would be very costly - if you could even get it, which is unlikely. Repairing is easy for anyone with basic skills. The cost - which $750 is VERY fair ($300 is downright ridiculously cheap) - is all about labor. The materials are a small part of the cost.
No, buying a new one would be very costly - if you could even get it, which is unlikely. Repairing is easy for anyone with basic skills. The cost - which $750 is VERY fair ($300 is downright ridiculously cheap) - is all about labor. The materials are a small part of the cost.
Hookup1
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I re-did mine myself. You are not going to find a new-old-stock one. Rebuilding it ,if done right, will be the last hatch you need. Search my posts to see how it was done
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Repairing fuel tank deck hatch coring
I pulled the deck hatch to inspect my fuel tanks and found it was waterlogged. Plywood coring is still intact but soaked. I'm looking for suggestions on what material to use for the coring. 42" x 46" overall dimensions 1/2" thick. Prefer not to use wood. Coosa board, honeycomb material or...
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How long took you to do it? What material for the core? How did you attach the core to the fiberglass? PL/Liquid Nails/resin ???? Thanks
Hookup1
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I'm going to say its a 12 hour project broken up over a few days. The first thing you need to do is flip it over and use a rotary cutter to cut around the edges to free the "bottom" fiberglass. If the hatch is bad at least one edge have already broken. Then carefully separate the bottom. Then you have to get the plywood squares out. I used a wide chisel and popped them out one at a time. This is the cleaned up hatch.
I used Coosa board. It's a composite material this is 3X the cost of marine plywood. It won't rot. You can use plywood but you have to be careful that everything is sealed. I used West System epoxy with SLOW hardener. It was done as one piece but could be done in squares. I vacuum bagged the part to squeeze the fiberglass shell and the Coosa board together. This get's all the air out and brings the epoxy to the top. The result is a more complete bonding
Stiffener support added.
All the screw holes were over drilled but not thru the fiberglass hatch. Then the underside was covered with fiberglass cloth and resin and vacuum bagged again to get the air out. Afterwards the screw holes were drilled out from the fiberglass side. Sorry - I don't have a finished picture.
I recommend using epoxy and not polyester. Polyester isn't a good choice for repairs. It doesn't bond well to "old" polyester which is used during the build process because it's less expensive. Difficult to control the "working time".
Also vacuum bagging isn't required but it isn't hard to do and results in a stronger part.
I used Coosa board. It's a composite material this is 3X the cost of marine plywood. It won't rot. You can use plywood but you have to be careful that everything is sealed. I used West System epoxy with SLOW hardener. It was done as one piece but could be done in squares. I vacuum bagged the part to squeeze the fiberglass shell and the Coosa board together. This get's all the air out and brings the epoxy to the top. The result is a more complete bonding
Stiffener support added.
All the screw holes were over drilled but not thru the fiberglass hatch. Then the underside was covered with fiberglass cloth and resin and vacuum bagged again to get the air out. Afterwards the screw holes were drilled out from the fiberglass side. Sorry - I don't have a finished picture.
I recommend using epoxy and not polyester. Polyester isn't a good choice for repairs. It doesn't bond well to "old" polyester which is used during the build process because it's less expensive. Difficult to control the "working time".
Also vacuum bagging isn't required but it isn't hard to do and results in a stronger part.
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Well, thanks. I will start looking at videos on the YouTube to learn how to do the vacuum bag thing and see if i have enough skills to do it myself. I would try to do it even if it would cost me the same as I was quoted, just to have something on the boat I could say " I did it"! I will post on the results, have i done it opr not !
Hookup1
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You need a vacuum pump, some vinyl tubing, heavy sheet plastic 4 mil or better from Home Depot and "sticky tape" from FiberGlast.com.
greauxpete
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Check out my panel rebuild starting on post # 28 on this thread:
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New 1996 Grady White Islander 268 with twin 200 V6 Mercs
My boat had that same pushbutton breaker as the one next to your battery switch. Be sure to check it, I ended up replacing mine. Was sticky. Regarding your fuel tanks I can only tell you what I saw when I removed the then 25 year old tank out of my boat. The top had obvious pitting and a...
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Hi Guys.
I did it myself!!! I had a piece of 5 ply 5/8" from an old job and used it to do the re-core. I made the stiffening pieces (like a ladder) w/ 2 pieces of the same plywood screwed and glued together. Reading/learning on the web i decided to use epoxy for sealing the plywood and glue on the top. My reasoning for the plywood is :" If the original plywood lasted for 24 years, this will must last the same time". No need to use expensive stuff. The end was done w/ stranded mat and after that i used that rubber spray " as seen on tv" to make sure no water ever will be there. I spent around $300,00 ( including the plywood ( assumed cost) and love what i did. Don even have to say i saved some good money.- The holes for lid were filled w/ thickened epoxy , so no water will access from there.
I did it myself!!! I had a piece of 5 ply 5/8" from an old job and used it to do the re-core. I made the stiffening pieces (like a ladder) w/ 2 pieces of the same plywood screwed and glued together. Reading/learning on the web i decided to use epoxy for sealing the plywood and glue on the top. My reasoning for the plywood is :" If the original plywood lasted for 24 years, this will must last the same time". No need to use expensive stuff. The end was done w/ stranded mat and after that i used that rubber spray " as seen on tv" to make sure no water ever will be there. I spent around $300,00 ( including the plywood ( assumed cost) and love what i did. Don even have to say i saved some good money.- The holes for lid were filled w/ thickened epoxy , so no water will access from there.