New Overnighter, new transom

My V20 already had the scuppers out the sides but I did move the deck drain from "in the deck" to "on the bulkhead". This was because there was always a little wtaer that would not go down the drain due to the lip of the fitting.
If you move the scuppers, you have to get it right. look at the height above the waterline and where your deck drains are. They also have to be astern of the deck drain.
Think about how the hose will bend.

You are not going to have any wood anymore, so not sure what benefit you get moving from transom.

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My thinking was, the further up the boat they are, the higher above the waterline they would be. I am assuming that the deck on this model is not level with the water when afloat. I would only gain 4 or 5 inches ( maybe ) towards the bow if I do what you did. But its a simple change. Maybe I could just raise the drain on the transom up a 1/2" and accomplish the same thing?? I'm just not sure of the geometry of everything while the boat is in the water. Maybe this is only a problem with a big V6 motor?? I dont know.
 
Not sure what you are asking but my Canyon 271 deck drains go out the side. Look at some picture online and you will see the deck drains going out the side it's a 2022 model
 
Getting ready to rebuild my transom.
A couple of my questions answered.
1. in my boat the stringers are separated from the transom wood by a wall of glass. ( thats a very good thing )
2. There is no opening in the top of the side sections except where the fuel hose goes through.

So, I cut and removed the rear skin of the transom with an oscillating tool so that the cut line would be very thin. The wood inside was so bad it only took about 3 hours to remove everything from the transom. The back skin is a good 1/4" thick but the inner skin looks like only 1 or 2 layers of glass tops.
The inside transom skin had been hogged out on both sides to allow for a short skupper outlet to be used. Water could have easily entered there. There were also breaks in the glass where the engine bolts had broken through, as well as the usual gap under the aluminum angle iron at the top.

Still a little to cool here in RI to do any glassing but Im getting ready.

I tried to upload PDF pictures of the transom but it still says the file is too large.

I will update as I progress through this project.
 
Well, I got everything done and have taken a few fishing trips in my Grady. I cheaped out on the transom and went with 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood and Total boat epoxy. I re-used the rear skin of the transom and also added a total of 5 layers of 1708 glass inside and outside. The transom is now thick and solid.
I moved the deck scupper outlets to the side of the boat, but they still let a little water back in when taking waves on the side of the boat. Its not bad and not a problem. My 130hp Johnson 2 stroke is running great and the boat will do 29mph flat out with that on it. This Grady is the best boat I have had for sea worthyness. I can cruise in chop at 20 mph no problem. It does duck and dive some in rough water or quartering wake etc but I can live with that.
Overall I am very happy with the boat. I replaced EVERYTHING in it before putting it on the water. All the wiring, gauges, cables, hoses, ports, vents etc.
I told myself I would not do it again, but knowing me even if I bought a turnkey boat I wouldn't feel right until I had my hands into everything. I think its a sickness.

Anyway, thanks for all of the tips and advice. See you on the water.