My thinking was, the further up the boat they are, the higher above the waterline they would be. I am assuming that the deck on this model is not level with the water when afloat. I would only gain 4 or 5 inches ( maybe ) towards the bow if I do what you did. But its a simple change. Maybe I could just raise the drain on the transom up a 1/2" and accomplish the same thing?? I'm just not sure of the geometry of everything while the boat is in the water. Maybe this is only a problem with a big V6 motor?? I dont know.
New Overnighter, new transom
- Thread starter JDS535
- Start date
Getting ready to rebuild my transom.
A couple of my questions answered.
1. in my boat the stringers are separated from the transom wood by a wall of glass. ( thats a very good thing )
2. There is no opening in the top of the side sections except where the fuel hose goes through.
So, I cut and removed the rear skin of the transom with an oscillating tool so that the cut line would be very thin. The wood inside was so bad it only took about 3 hours to remove everything from the transom. The back skin is a good 1/4" thick but the inner skin looks like only 1 or 2 layers of glass tops.
The inside transom skin had been hogged out on both sides to allow for a short skupper outlet to be used. Water could have easily entered there. There were also breaks in the glass where the engine bolts had broken through, as well as the usual gap under the aluminum angle iron at the top.
Still a little to cool here in RI to do any glassing but Im getting ready.
I tried to upload PDF pictures of the transom but it still says the file is too large.
I will update as I progress through this project.
A couple of my questions answered.
1. in my boat the stringers are separated from the transom wood by a wall of glass. ( thats a very good thing )
2. There is no opening in the top of the side sections except where the fuel hose goes through.
So, I cut and removed the rear skin of the transom with an oscillating tool so that the cut line would be very thin. The wood inside was so bad it only took about 3 hours to remove everything from the transom. The back skin is a good 1/4" thick but the inner skin looks like only 1 or 2 layers of glass tops.
The inside transom skin had been hogged out on both sides to allow for a short skupper outlet to be used. Water could have easily entered there. There were also breaks in the glass where the engine bolts had broken through, as well as the usual gap under the aluminum angle iron at the top.
Still a little to cool here in RI to do any glassing but Im getting ready.
I tried to upload PDF pictures of the transom but it still says the file is too large.
I will update as I progress through this project.