Thanks! Looks like the change from the goofy sliding hatch to a tilting (and sealing) one will be pretty easy. 
New to me: '76 Formula 233
- Thread starter gw204
- Start date
I envy you guys who have this special talent to bring these old girls back to life. Please keep us updated on your progress with pics. Love seeing these come together. 8)
Bama's right on that one..I jiggle the battery cables and if that doesn't fix it, I'm on my way to the service dept.
magicalbill said:
I never, ever change oil in my boats or cars, maybe when younger(not that i can't do it now), but not now, too lazy, very little time for maintenance things and fishing, i'm a weekend warrior, but when it comes to bring something like that boat(or a car) back to life, i'm all ready. I will work after i get home from work till very late. I really enjoy doing it. I have restored 3 boats up to now and this one will be my fourth.
I feeel your pain, Giorgos. I got an English sports car jones. On my second TR3, did an Austin Healy and two MGs. Your boat is really a gem. Best of luck with her.
Daman858 said:
Drove a Triumph TR3 in Greece for almost a month, what a sick car, loved it, i always wanted to get one, but there is a very sad story behind one, so i never did. Back in the 90's a TR3 was driven by a British drunk guy and claimed the life of two of my friends riding their motorcycle, he run over both bikes and he end up on a tree with a cut above his eye brow. But i really like that car, maybe one day, if i ever get over it.
Sorry, got all exited, it was a TR6, not TR3. But the TR3 is a very good looking oldie.
I've run 'em all too.
The 25 Allmand was not off the F233 hull. Mako ( 'tho they deny) used the 25 Allmand for their 1st 25.
The 20 Wellcraft came off the Alim. Good riding but not at the same at speed as the F233 or either of the Sea crafts in competent hands.
The 25 Allmand was not off the F233 hull. Mako ( 'tho they deny) used the 25 Allmand for their 1st 25.
The 20 Wellcraft came off the Alim. Good riding but not at the same at speed as the F233 or either of the Sea crafts in competent hands.
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
Fourth restore maybe but that new DLV Carolina Skiff you pimped out a couple of years ago was something to see as well. 8)
Bama, i put quite bit of work on that skiff, then i realized that that boat was not so great for Long Island sound and the steep waves we get, thank god i sold it with 8 hours on it and MADE money believe it or not.
If i could only be able to remove the tank from the F233, i would be a VERY happy man. I am embarrassed to say, but i rum out of choices of how to remove the tank. I empty the 60 plus gallons had in there, remove all the foam around it and i tried almost everything but a hoist and can't get it to unstuck from the bottom of the boat.
Any ideas?
If i could only be able to remove the tank from the F233, i would be a VERY happy man. I am embarrassed to say, but i rum out of choices of how to remove the tank. I empty the 60 plus gallons had in there, remove all the foam around it and i tried almost everything but a hoist and can't get it to unstuck from the bottom of the boat.
Any ideas?
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
Yep, a few...
Does it have tabs on the top of the tank to bolt to the stringers? If so, wedge a 2x4 in between them. Then lay some 4x4s across the gunwales, put a floor jack on top of them and run a chain around the tabs. Give a few cranks on the jack and let it sit. Then come back and do it again. The 2x4s prevent the tabs from pulling in when you apply pressure with the jack.
Do you have the bulkheads at the front and back of the tank compartment out? If so, try and stick and regular hand saw under the tank to cut the foam.
Flood it w/ water a few times and then cut it apart.
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
No worries. I'm am going to start a new thread to document the "fun stuff".
Brian, no tabs on the tank. They had "glue" the tank on the floor with foam, then filled up sides, front, rear and top. I have removed all the foam but from the bottom. I wedged a crowbar under it and stepped on the other end but nothing happened. My next step is to remove the bulkheads and try to strap a chain around it and use the jack method.
Think I'll jump in -
Sling and lift from one end only while prying there.
Get a buddy with another another pry bar, use two at a time.
Sling and lift from one end only while prying there.
Get a buddy with another another pry bar, use two at a time.
Guys on the ClassicMako say they have good success with jamming a 2x4 in between the tank and stringers and prying on it in an attempt to shift the tank sideways and break the foam bond that way.
If prying doesn't work, stick two pieces of 1x4 in the gap and then hammer a wedge in between them.
Set up where the tank baffles are. The tank will be strongest there and will resist buckling.
If prying doesn't work, stick two pieces of 1x4 in the gap and then hammer a wedge in between them.
Set up where the tank baffles are. The tank will be strongest there and will resist buckling.
Maybe they used something like 3M 5200 to keep it in place, and if they did, it'll be almost impossible to remove it without damaging the hull or stringers. If that's the case, you could always cut the top off, then cut all around the bottom to remove the sides, and just leave the bottom of it in place to set your new tank on. Good luck, gonna be a great boat when you're done!
BobP said:
Bob, i work alone, all the "buddies" show up only at the dock ready to go fishing.
And my older son is sooooooooo lergic to fiberglass dust is unreal.
gw204 said:
Brian, i tried to do the trick with wedge and the stringers, but the stringers wobble like there is no tomorrow, remember? all rotted POS stringers.
Wild guess never tried.
Take a long piece of leader wire with a dowel handle on each end. Work it under either end of the tank and saw it back and forth pulling toward the opposite end of the tank.
This should cut thru what's holding it down.
Halfway thru try the wedge technique.
Post results, I may need to try it myself.
Take a long piece of leader wire with a dowel handle on each end. Work it under either end of the tank and saw it back and forth pulling toward the opposite end of the tank.
This should cut thru what's holding it down.
Halfway thru try the wedge technique.
Post results, I may need to try it myself.
ahill said:
Actually i can't do that because there are pieces of lumber wedged under it, i guess to level it and keep it level while foam was curing.