Newbie whats the difference between a Gulfstream and Voyager

[PeterB]

Circa 1998 .......I can see the obvious difference in the transoms Euro Vs Bracket It looks like the Gulfstream has more counter soace and the upper and lower bunk. Whereas the Voyager seems to have bigger berths, less counter, no upper bunk........Is there more????

Also.........and I realize this is a minefield, but I really need to know, What year did Grady resolve the transom issues for good?? I know each individual boat is the "x" factor here.........

I have been thinking about a Gulfstream, something that will allow me to overnight by myself , in a cabin that I can pretty much stand in , that has some running water, storage and a Porta-Potty, that I can actually stand to use

 

[Tuna Man]

The differences betweent the Voyager and the Gulfstream can be found on the Grady White website (look at the 1998 catalog, its oline). The few that come to mind is the Gulfstream has about a nine inch wider beam. The Voyager may be a 24' boat, but I think the running hull (part in the water at rest) is shorter, more like 22' in that year. Voyager has a eurotransom, Gulf. does not, etc.

I can tell you first hand that Grady resolved the transom issues on my old 1988 Offshore and on my old 1992 Explorer. Neither one had any issues and both were surveyed professonally. I think a lot of the bad transoms come from neglect and or improper installation of thru hulls, transom mounted screws (trim tabs, transducers, etc.), improperly sealed engine or engine bracket hardware, etc. I am not trying to suggest Grady never missed fiberglassing and sealing the entire transom properly on every hull it ever produced. I also do not want to suggest that the aluminum (maybe ss now) piece that caps the top of the transom is perfect and will last forever either, but it works for me. I do not remember the date (mid 1990's I think) Grady went with some 'new improved' plywood for use in their hulls. Alledgedly this wood is garanteed 'rot free.' I have not found a tree that will literally last forever after being cut down. However, I guess having a piece of plywood that would be exposed to both salt and fresh water year round if not sealed properly on a 1998 boat (now 21 years old) and solid as a rock is proof enough for me.

Hope this helps,

 

[Tuna Man]

Here is the link, can't see the aft section of the hull bottom, but I am almot certain it does not run the full length of the boat on a 1998 Voyager.

http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/cata ... s/1998.pdf

 

[wahoo33417]

Peter: In my opinion, the Gulfstream needs twin engines and the Voyager (now called Journey) is fine on a single engine. Having run both, but not the same year, narrower beam on Voyager makes for a little better ride going into a chop. I think Gulfstream handled a following sea better. Gulfstream feels like a bigger boat. And it certainly has a more useable cabin.

By the way - welcome to the forum.

Rob

 

[magicalbill]

Never having owned or ridden on a Voyager I can't provide any input on the differences.
I do own a 2007 Gulfstream, and CAN say that I overnite comfortably. I stay on it for 2 weeks at a time twice a year on my vacations and many 2 niters throughout the season.
Only once have I slept in the upper bunk when my son was aboard for the nite. It isn't the Marriott, but it doesn't suck.
I also must add that I'm not factoring in any cabin design differences that may have been implemented between 1998 and 2007.

 

[JeffN]

Tuna Man - not to highjack the thread but a couple of years ago I had my Kingfish repowered and had to have the transom redone. Where the drive went through was fine but when Grady installed my through hulls for the cockpit drains they were never sealed at all just drilled out and installed with no sealant of any kind. So anybody thinking of buying etc. get that survey done with particular attention paid to the transom.

Just a heads up.

 

[gradyfish22]

There is no real resolution to the transom issue, it comes down to previous owner's care and use. there was 0 problem with older Grady transom design, anyone who says there was is 100% wrong. The issue lied with installer's as well as owner's not knowing how to properly install transducers and take care of thru hulls. Part of the problem on earlier Grady's was the use of plastic nylon thru hulls that over the years cracked and allowed water to seep into the transom, but the transom design was not the flaw, the thru hulls were, and owner's not knowing when the thru hulls required replacement, or not wanting to spend the money were the biggest issue, some just did not know. Moat boaters out there have no clue how to maintain half of the stuff on their boat. I've seen many "professional" electronics installers improperly install components into transoms, transducers and trim tabs were the worst. Any drilled holes need to be sealed well with 5200 since your below the waterline, chaulk and other products do not do the job, over time they break down and allow voids where water got in. Newer models have less issued due to newer thru hull usage that do not break down, but I've seen new Grady's as well as other boats with transom rot due to improper care, and I've seen older Grady's with no issues what so ever. Only way to know is a survey.

Scout uses core in their transom's, you'd think they would not have problems....well for a while they did, space between the fiberglass and core existed and the void allowed the glass to slap the core and actuall broke it into a powder, now you have a sandwich with no strength in the middle. I've seen core get wet and soggy too from improper adding of accessories. Solid glass can have issues too if air bubbles or voids exist. There is not 100% fool proof method or fix although some are better then others. Only good workmanship can do things right and prevent issues, and every builder has their own ways. Wood is still used by many and from builders and designers perspective and a design stand point is still one of the best materials today and is still used in boats big and small. Some brands are getting away from it, but not for longevity issues or strength, but to cut weight or to use no wood as a marketing gimmic...which it is, just that and nothing else.

 

[gw204]

there was 0 problem with older Grady transom design, anyone who says there was is 100% wrong.

You are right, the design was fine...it's the implementation that was off.

That aluminum trim that was used to cover the cap to hull joint at the motor cutout was a joke. Probably one of the top 3 reasons behind transom rot in these boats. Guess what...factory installed...and how many owner are going to think to remove their engine to reseal that trim? That joint should be glassed.

Also, take a look at the bilge drain bored though the transom. What's your's sealed with? Mine just had caulking smeared all over the place....by the factory. It didn't even have the copper drain tube that is used on the boats with a rubber bilge plug. I got lucky, mine was dry. So, I dug out all the caulking, painted the core with epoxy and sleeved the darn thing with a piece of PVC bedded in epoxy thickened w/ cabosil.

Sure, owners are often to blame. However, you can't blame the owners for not know how to correct factory deficiencies.

 

[BobP]

What transom issue?

 

[JeffN]

There is no real resolution to the transom issue, it comes down to previous owner's care and use. there was 0 problem with older Grady transom design, anyone who says there was is 100% wrong.

My cockpit drains were factory installed. I would agree that had the drains been properly installed I probably would not have had an issue. Next time I buy a new boat I'll check all the penetrations below the water line, I thought I was OK with the Grady install but I guess not. All my transom penetrations then and now were factory. So at least on an older boat don't let a factory install lead you to a false sense of security.

 

[jimfish]

Gulfsteam 232

On the 232, you step UP to the "bridge" / helm area. This allows for much better vision, especially when manuevering in close quarters, docking, etc. It also means that water is FAR less likely to penetrate the cabin area - at least any H20 coming from the cockpit. This 'step-up' is what gives more height in the cabin, too.

 

[PeterB]

Thanks....More questions

Thanks for the clarification. I really like the Gulfstream, and Im going to go look at one next week............

I do have more questions though, is the standing room in that cabin pretty decent? Im not looking for it to be a full cabin to walk around in , but it sure would be nice to be able to fully stand up from the doorway to the v in the berth.....????

Also, Are Grady hulls solid glass or cored from the waterline up? I have been boating all these years and I cant believe that I have never known the answer to that question...........????

 

[jimfish]

232...

Not cored. Standing room in the cabin is adequate for me, and I am over 6'1' and 220 lbs. At the doorway, you must step down into the cabin. The opening is cut out and hatched so a person can do it standing up (and I would always do it backward, as if on a ladder). No, you don't have to crawl thru a midget door hatch or anything.

 

[GWcpa]

Gulfstream is balsa cored, waterline up. Take out one of the forward access plates in the cabin and you'll see it. Strong hulls.


http://www.gradywhite.com/grady-built/materials.php3

 

[jimfish]

Thanks, GW. I've changed out the thru-hulls, but never noticed the coring.

 

[jimfish]

Gulfstream hull cores...

On further thought about a Gulfstream being "...cored above the waterline," if my boat IS cored, why am I able to see (faint) light thru the hull - looking from inside a dark bilge towards the bright, sun side of the hull? I would think that if the hull is cored, light certainly could not penetrate, but........................???

 

[GWcpa]

Don't know what years are cored, but I think they may be cored just in the forward sections of the hull, but not sure.

I had it in my 2001 232.

 

[jimfish]

OK. I was changing out the thru hulls and that work was mostly amidship. The faint light I could see was when I was peering thru the access hatches (vertical) in the seat / hatches behind the helm and port side.
BTW - Mine had the white plastic thru hulls and I discovered that one of them had cracked (!!!). Not a good thing!! I called GW and they sent an entire set of chrome over brass thru hulls at no charge. I am the 2nd owner as was not covered by warranty, but GW did it anyway. Just great customer service.
Boat is a '97 with 300 HPDI that I repowered with before a (lone) trip to the Bahamas. The 250 SWII was "OK" but worked a little hard in seas. The 300 solved THAT very well. I can't imagine putting the F225 on this hull and being happy with it.
Upon return from the Abacos and back in Michigan, I contacted Yamaha as I thought that my performance was not what I expected. Don Taylor, the Midwest Areas Service Rep., came to Traverse City and checked my 300. The internal computer told him it had been overrevved during original installation (dealer is now GONE, BTW). Don (personally), and Yamaha, replaced the entire 300 from above the lower unit with a new, updated powerhead, etc. - including the water pump. Also installed 10 micron filter and a fuel valve assembly for my 15hp trolling motor tap (4-stroke). Put the 232 in the water and personally broke it in to factory specs. NO CHARGE - and replaced the trailer winch strap AND put a couple of hundred bucks worth of fuel in "...for your trouble", too. AMAZING!!
I was a two Grady guy at the time, also owning a 209 that I kept in Fla. Had to sell the 209 when I moved to the coast (I winter in Fla. - summer in Northern Michigan) and I no longer had a place to keep it undercover and protected from storms. LOVED that CC, too!!! MY loss is a good friend's gain - as HE has his first Grady, chasing salmon on Lake Michigan.

 

[wahoo33417]

Jimfish: Wow! If I ever have trouble with my Yamaha I want your guy!

Rob

 

[jimfish]

Don Taylor was the absolute best representative for Yamaha that one could imagine. Technically without peer - which is WHY he is the tech rep for Yamaha in the Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois region - Don is THE GUY who trains the Yamaha mechanics on the entire Yamaha line. I was extremely fortunate to have him involved with my motor issues. He quickly ascertained what the problem was, that it was NOT an owner caused issue, and took immediate steps to do what was right. He contacted his bosses in Georgia, and Yamaha corporate headquarters
authorized shipping virtually an entire new (except for the lower gear case and shroud), updated, 300 HPDI to Traverse City by overnight air frieght.
I cannot conceive of getting better service or treatment from anyone I have or ever will do business with. Yamaha, and Don Taylor, should be on posters for what customer service should be!!