No Water from Pee Hole, 1994 Yamaha 200 2s

On my F250 it won’t pee with muffs which feed both sides. Will only pee in a tub if the water level is higher than the water pump. Don’t know if relevant to your motor.
 
Jonboat Bob said:
Thank you for the reply. Tomorrow i am going to do what several of you are suggesting and before I take the lower unit out again I will fill up a tub and see if that works. Bob
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But... if it worked fine on your hose before, it should again. Possibly you put the impeller in backwards... and sometimes they will "flip" by themselves.
 
Hookup1 said:
On my F150's the water tell-tail passes thru the fuel cooler. I have had mine clog. Pull the water "in "hose to see if there is flow. Snake the cooler from the "out" hose with 300 lb mono and try to back flush.

I have had problems on the ears on mine too. My mechanic told me its problematic and may not be anything wrong - just not getting enough water pressure from the garden hose.Try connecting to the "flush" connection too.
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I had a clog in my old 200 SWSII, just hooked up a garden hose to the flush connection cranked it and a hunk of dried up grass or some other junk shot out. good as gold afterwards.
 
I've also had trouble getting a Yamaha to pee when using muffs. I found that after starting if I put pressure on both muffs to minimize the water escaping it pushed enough water up to the pump to prime it and then it pee'd fine for as long as I wanted to run it (without having to continue to put pressure on the muffs). If you don't have a large tub handy, you might want to give this a try.
 
Those 2 strokes are picky when using muffs. It's not so much the water pressure but also as important is the water volume. Your motor may pee OK on a short hose but not on a long one. Avoid the crinkled hoses that shrink up when the water pressure is turned off.
Finally, the muffs are not a perfect test case for the pee stream checking. Now if the telltale doesn't flow when the motor is run in a large tub or when launched and running, you have a problem.
Also make sure that the flush port assuming you have one and I suspect you do is not hanging loose, not screwed onto the fitting on the motor. If it is not closed off, the water pressure will be lower.

One really sloppy way to test the water pump operation is to connect the LU to muffs, remove one thermostat housing and thermostat, turn on the water and see if water comes out of the thermostat casting opening. It may not. Start the motor and within 15 seconds or less, water should flow out of the opening for the t-stat. If it doesn't, the pressure from the water pump is low.
Don't stand in front of the t-state opening and don't run the motor for more that a minute or less.
 
Thank you for all of the ideas and suggestions for helping me figure out why my 1994 Yamaha was not discharging water out of its pee hole when it was running. Due to your help I WAS ABLE to get water out of the pee hole FINALLY. When I first acquired the boat a short while ago I brought it home and started up the motor for the first time while using my garden hose and brand-new water ear muffs, and water did come out of the pee hole at that time. A month later, went to start the motor again with same garden hose and ear muffs setup and no water came out of the pee hole this time. I don't know much about outboards (yet am quickly learning) and figured maybe the water pump had worn out or something and was no longer able to get the water up. So, I was eventually able to get all the right water pump parts from Yamaha, including housing and housing cap, installed the parts according to the Yamaha manual, went to start the motor with the ear muffs hooked up and again, no water from the pee hole. Using your ideas I connected my garden hose up directly to the water tube while the lower unit was out of the engine, and water DID shoot out of the pee hole, effectively confirming my problem was somewhere in the lower unit. A couple of you mentioned that your motors would not properly discharge water out of the pee hole while hooked up to ear muffs and suggested putting the lower unit in a water tank and then run the motor. My first water tank was one of my wife's very large Christmas decorations storage boxes (and she is definitely NOT happy about that). After taking everything out of the box first (at least I did that, geez) I was able to fill it up with enough water to just cover the tops of my lower unit's water intake screens. Started the motor looking for pee success but it was not yet to be. One of you had the idea of priming the water pump and then it came to me that I needed to get the water up in the tank even higher to ensure the entire lower unit and the two water intake vents located just above the anti-cavitation plate were submerged. So I took my relatively new residential garbage can (100 gallons; again wife is not entirely heppy), precariously lodged it under the motor, filled it up to the very top where it just covered those upper water intakes as well, made sure the entire lower unit was completely flooded, started up the motor and SUCCESS FINALLY, I once again have the ability to pee (out of my Yamaha outboard)! Thanks again for your assistance in helping me get closer to one day soon taking this boat out for the first time. Bob In Biloxi
 
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seasick said:
Those 2 strokes are picky when using muffs. It's not so much the water pressure but also as important is the water volume. Your motor may pee OK on a short hose but not on a long one. Avoid the crinkled hoses that shrink up when the water pressure is turned off.
Finally, the muffs are not a perfect test case for the pee stream checking. Now if the telltale doesn't flow when the motor is run in a large tub or when launched and running, you have a problem.
Also make sure that the flush port assuming you have one and I suspect you do is not hanging loose, not screwed onto the fitting on the motor. If it is not closed off, the water pressure will be lower.

One really sloppy way to test the water pump operation is to connect the LU to muffs, remove one thermostat housing and thermostat, turn on the water and see if water comes out of the thermostat casting opening. It may not. Start the motor and within 15 seconds or less, water should flow out of the opening for the t-stat. If it doesn't, the pressure from the water pump is low.
Don't stand in front of the t-state opening and don't run the motor for more that a minute or less.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Seasick. Your suggestions were right on. I just posted my successful fix for the motor and it had everything to do with getting adequate water through the lower unit up to the pump to get that new pump primed. Thanks again. Bob
 
Hookup1 said:
On my F150's the water tell-tail passes thru the fuel cooler. I have had mine clog. Pull the water "in "hose to see if there is flow. Snake the cooler from the "out" hose with 300 lb mono and try to back flush.

I have had problems on the ears on mine too. My mechanic told me its problematic and may not be anything wrong - just not getting enough water pressure from the garden hose.Try connecting to the "flush" connection too.
Click to expand...
Thank you Hookup1. Your reply about the water pressure was spot-on. I just posted to this thread how I eventually "fixed" my problem, thanks to folks like you. Bob
 
Jonboat Bob said:
Thank you, SkunkBoat. I am running on a new set of ears. I will try the tub idea first and then I will try your idea of taking the lower unit back off and directing water into the water tube to check for obstructions if the tub method fails me. Bob
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SkunkBoat - Thanks so much for your suggestions. They were key to my fixing this problem Today I posted a short story to this thread on what I did. Thanks again. Bob in Biloxi
 
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