Offshore Rear Drains - One More Question!l

[Andrew93]

I was looking to replace the 4 drains on the rear of my 1986 Offshore open rear transom. My transom appears to be in solid condition, I had a surveyor inspect it prior to purchase 2 years ago and he said there was nothing to worry about and it look great. I just unscrewed the rear scuppers and noticed there appears to be a brass tube through the hull that these scuppers screwed to. Is there a kit to replace the tubes since the ends looked to be cracked where water can get in or do I need to just fill it all in with below the waterline caulking and replace just the gasket on the skuppers?

Looking again at the photos it looks like the brass plugs are knocked in from one side and they were alternated. I just want to make sure I am covering all of my bases to prevent water for getting in. I already resealed the aluminum angle iron cap when I had the motor off last year.

Attached below are some photos

Thanks

Andrew

 

[gradywhiteman]

Re: Offshore Rear Drains

They are transom drain tubes, I replaced mine when I did my transom. I bought mine from a local grady dealer. Measure the dia. and the length. You will also need a flaring tool to match the dia. of the tube. Moellor made the one I used. Pretty easy to do, once the old tubes are out seal the wood in the hole with some epoxy before installing the new tubes.

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Offshore Rear Drains

You're right to want to keep those drain tubes sealed up, because if they leak or water seeps around edges, it will eventually start deteriorating your transom core. On a previous GW Seafarer I replaced transom core on, I found bad core wood all around those tubes, and after I replaced core material I drilled holes larger then filled them completely with an epoxy paste I made. After that dried I drilled correct size for the tubes, coated them with 5200, and installed them. As stated previously, you'll need a flare tool to flare the edges of tube once installed.

 

[Andrew93]

Re: Offshore Rear Drains

Thanks! That photo looks like you did a real nice job on them. I was debating dropping it off at the dealer to have the injectors serviced since this is my first year with this motor and adding this tithe list. I think I will attempt it myself though, I am pretty handy and even debating sending out the injectors myself but it isn't such a bad thing to have a good relationship with the local dealer. They have been nice about supplying information in the past when troubleshooting.

Andrew

 

[Andrew93]

With the help here and a few other forms I found a good tutorial on how to replace these tubes. Since he boat is on Cape Cod and I live over an hour away I was wondering if anyone knows what size they are. I am leaning towards 1 1/4" but just want to be sure before I order everything.

Thanks

Andrew

Here is a link to the tutorial I found if it is not already well known.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020269.html

 

[onoahimahi]

Sometimes those crack when the transom swells due to a wet core. While you have the screws out - you could do a little probing with an ice pick to see if the core is still solid in that area. Also, you could stick some toothpicks in the holes and check them the next day to see if they are wet.

 

[VeroWing]

With the help here and a few other forms I found a good tutorial on how to replace these tubes. Since he boat is on Cape Cod and I live over an hour away I was wondering if anyone knows what size they are. I am leaning towards 1 1/4" but just want to be sure before I order everything.

Thanks

Andrew

Here is a link to the tutorial I found if it is not already well known.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020269.html

I no longer have the Seafarer I replaced the drains on, and Offshore model I have now is a different setup. One more item you may want to buy is some epoxy-like paste, incase after removing old brass tubes you discover some bad core surrounding opening. I'm fairly certain you probably will, so don't panic and just dig out as much as you easily can, let dry real good, and fill in with an epoxy base paste. After that dries, coat opening and tube with 3M 5200 and install tubes. Should be good for another 30 years.

One last layer of protection is that there are rubber O-rings that can be placed on both sides of tube before flaring tube to the inside opening that will help keep water out. :goodjob