hello just wanted to know ur opinion on bottom painting your boat.. ,Oil or latex pros and cons , also what brands to you recommend thanks
oil or latex for bottom paint pros & cons
- Thread starter against the wind
- Start date
This will be my fourth season using water based (Petitt Hydrocoat)against the wind said:
Previously I used Interlux paints, CSC mostly.
I prefer the way that CSC feels when applying. I think the Petitt goes on thinner. That said and after applying the recommended number of coats ( 2 on most surfaces and 3 on the places abused by water flow like the water lines) I have not had one barnacle on the Hydrocoat painted areas, not one and my boat stays in the water weeks at a time.(in the NE in salt water)
The Hydrocoat has to be mixed well and remixed while applying. It should be mixed with a paddle and drill. Using a stick doesn't work well. By mixing, I mean really mixing for several minutes. Otherwise you will be painting with basically tinted water
You can paint and leave the boat on dry land for a long time.Clean up is sooo much easier especially on your skin and tools. The odor is not bad either. All in all, I won't go back to non-water based paints.
The paint will last 2 seasons or more with touchups if areas get worn. It would probably work three seasons but I touchup ( a single coat) every year and a decent cleaning, sanding etc, every three seasons.
It is not super sticky so make sure the surface is prepped well and any loose chips are removed.
A power wash at seasons end will remove the slime buildup but note that a strong spray can remove the paint. Alternating colors once in a while helps to show worn spots.
I haven't tries Hydrocoat SR or ECO. They are a lot more costly.
For my 20 ft hull, one gallon is enough for a new application with a small amount left over for touchup.
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oil - fumes, clean up needs thinner, thicker consistency
Water - application is easier, no fumes, clean up with water - Pettit Hydrocoat
Water - application is easier, no fumes, clean up with water - Pettit Hydrocoat
Many, many years ago the water based stuff probably wasn't quite as good. But for a decade or two, now, they've been just as good. And getting better all the time. I wouldn't even THINK about using oil based. I've used Hydrocoat for MANY years. Recently, I started using the Eco version so I can use the same stuff on the engine bracket and the little bit of the gear housing that touches the water.
DennisG01 said:
Dennis,
I am interested in your followup regarding experience with ECO especially on metal, aluminum, and or stainless.
I am one of those folks who doesn't try new things (like ECO) until there is a reasonable amount of user feedback. Of course, I expect that we will all be required in the future to use non copper based paints. I believe a few states already mandate their use.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
I had been using Hydrocoat for years without any issues and liked the product and how it worked. But every year I put up with the additional taping of the gap around the engine bracket and taping off the trim tabs and also having a different paint for them. PIA! Then i swapped to Hydrocoat ECO last season. I first took the time to chemically strip the tabs and bracket, sand and then prime and Tie coat. After that, EVERYTHING got the Hydrocoat ECO. No more bracket gap. Works great for me and my area. A light power wash last fall. Next week, a light scuff with a scotch bright pad and a light top coat for everything.
Seasick - I think you're right. It can't be long before more and more states put the nix on metals. As far as how the Eco is working, I've been using it for about 3 years so far and I've been happy with it. I can honestly say that I don't really notice any differences in how it works compared to non-Eco stuff. Seems to be just as good.
By all ur posts it seems you are all a fan of the water base.. I think i have oil on the bottom now, can i paint the hyro over oil base. how can i tell what type of paint i have on the bottom now thanks
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
against the wind said:
General rules of thumb:
If you wet and rub the paint with your finger and some color comes off, It' ablative paint.
If no color comes off, It's "hard" paint.
You can paint most water based ablative paint over water or oil based ablative paint and hard bottom paint. This included Hydrocoat & Eco.
Hard bottom paint should be sanded for best adhesion.
An unpainted hull should be sanded and primed before painting. There are primers that don't need sanding but factory mold release and/or any wax should be removed first.
Certain anti-foulants work better in certain climates / water temperatures / locations. Check with other boaters in your area.
Sometimes, a hard paint is used as an initial base over primer and ablative applied over that.
About the only big "no no" would be to paint hard bottom paint over ablative paint.
I'm sure there are exceptions here and others may chime in...