Anyone have any input on how quickly the toggle switch for the manual fill on Yamaha 200 HPDI should fill the upper reservoir? I am thinking the pump or the inline filter needs to be replaced because I am getting no oil up there even when running the boat.
Oil pump
- Thread starter DRLSII
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Not sure if this helps, but on my s150 it takes a minute or two max. Like you said, I would start with the filter and go from there (when i swapped mine (was not filling and was getting low oil alarm) I also cleaned the tank and put all old oil through a paint strainer just in case, worked for me. Also assuming you can hear the motor kick on when you activate emergency fill switch, if not need to trouble shoot the motor.
Whether or not it is a filter, you should be able to hear the pump in the remote tank running. That's the first thing to check. If the pump is not running, you need to do tests to see if there is a wiring.problem or a bad pump.Either way, bad pump or remote tank filter, you are going to have to remove the oil tank.
It is also possible but not that common to have gunk in the tank and that blocks flow.
Listen for pump motor first.( you may need a second set of hands, one to listen closely and one person to hold the switch on.
It is also possible but not that common to have gunk in the tank and that blocks flow.
Listen for pump motor first.( you may need a second set of hands, one to listen closely and one person to hold the switch on.
Check the little in line filter on the remote tank, they clog easy. My 200 HPDI ‘s had this issue. They would work fine at low speeds but once you got above 3500 they restricted the flow enough to alarm. I keep spares on the boat and reconfigured my remote tank for better access.
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What he said...
I HATE that job!
Also, I always have an unopened gallon so if it clogs while I'm underway I can fill the tank in the motor from the top and get home.
As I said, listen for the pump. It is isn't running with the manual switch activated, that needs to be resolved first.
Also, there is a difference between a main tank filling slowly (partially clogged filter perhaps) and a main tank not filling at all (totally clogged filter or more often a bad pump)
If no oil is getting to the tank as mentioned, when the tank gets about 1/3 full, the low oil alarm will sound and the motor will switch to guardian mode (revs limited) It will not shut down and eventually if all oil is used you will fry the motor.
Thank you all responding members, this helps! I can’t really hear anything but will check it closer. All of this has happened while on the water and with all surrounding noise it is hard to hear and being generally pissed off doesn't help either. Thank you all!
Another thing to look at (after first checking for motor sound since that is the easiest thing)... the floats in the main tank could be stuck - essentially tricking the system into thinking it's full. Probably not as likely as other possible culprits, but just something to be aware of. You'll also want to check for power to the pump (under demand) before replacing anything.
Yes but none of the float logic is used to run the pump when the manual fill toggle switch is activated
You should carry some 2 stroke oil with you. I always carry a quart. If the remote tank oil supply fails, when and if the engine goes into safe mode, you can manually pour oil into the main (on the motor) oil tank. Since that motor runs at an oil ratio of about 100:1 to 40:1, in the worst case, a quart of oil will last for as long as it takes for 10 gallons of gas to be consumed. On my boat, at cruise, I use about 12 gallons per hour, so that quart will last for at least an hour of cruising.
If you boat further out than a hour's ride, carry more spare oil.
You should carry some 2 stroke oil with you. I always carry a quart. If the remote tank oil supply fails, when and if the engine goes into safe mode, you can manually pour oil into the main (on the motor) oil tank. Since that motor runs at an oil ratio of about 100:1 to 40:1, in the worst case, a quart of oil will last for as long as it takes for 10 gallons of gas to be consumed. On my boat, at cruise, I use about 12 gallons per hour, so that quart will last for at least an hour of cruising.
If you boat further out than a hour's ride, carry more spare oil.
Im actually about to clean my tank tomorrow now that I'm on land. I always keep two extra filters on me, also just bought a spare pump. The pump is not fast but like others said use the toggle and listen and keep 1 gallon and a quart container on the boat incase you need to fill it. I plan on rerouting the oil line on my tank to make the filter more accessible. (my tanks are in the bilge)
Rerouting the filter is an interesting idea but to be honest, in the 12 years I have run my SX150, I cleaned (not replaced) the filter once about 10 years ago
At that time I also drained the tank and 'cleaned' it but it had no sludge.As I age, I do a lot less preventative maintenance
I think... but correct me if I'm wrong... that the toggle switch doesn't activate the pump if the main tank is full (or the floats are stuck in the up position, imitating a full tank).
I may be wrong too but I think the switch bypasses all float logic and the tank would overflow. I kind of remember looking at the wiring diagrams and seem to remember that the switch supplies ground to the leg of the motor that gets ground when the pump is activated. For those who may not know how most of the SX signalling (and a lot of other models) works, devices are permanently connected to battery voltage when the motor is on and the ECU or other logic switches the ground connection on or off. For that reason, just measuring the voltage looking for 12 volts can be misleading. In the case of the remote oil tank, when the ignition is on, the remote oil pump is getting 12 volts all the time but the pumps ground lead is connected or disconnected as needed
Hmmm. I'll have to take a look at the diagram, too. I'd physically try it out, but the boat is 500 miles away right now!
Logically it makes sense to bypass anything that could be the cause of the problem and that includes the ECU. The signals from the float switch go to the ECU. The normal control outputs signals come from the ECU, so to override the ECU logic, the wiring from the manual oil pump toggle switch would have to be separate from that logic.
At least that's the way I would design it
At least that's the way I would design it
Oh, believe me, I COMPLETELY agree that that's the way it should be... but logic and Mother Yamaha don't always go together!Logically it makes sense to bypass anything that could be the cause of the problem and that includes the ECU. The signals from the float switch go to the ECU. The normal control outputs signals come from the ECU, so to override the ECU logic, the wiring from the manual oil pump toggle switch would have to be separate from that logic.
At least that's the way I would design it
You're probably right, though.Mother Yamaha... Never heard that one before and it got me thinking. If you have twin motors, one could be mother and the other could be father. In the middle is the baby (your boat).
Ha!
I just remembered why I thought what I did... I once tried using the bypass switch just for fun. But nothing happened. However, in retrospect, I may not have held the switch long enough... and, quite honestly, I don't recall if the engine was running or not while I did that (or if it matters?). It was just one of those "let's see if this switch thingy works".