Oil transfer pump

[capt1947]

I have have been working on my oil transfer pump/remote tank on my 95 223 with a 200 yami,two cycle.

The existing pump mounted on the remote oil tank appears to be too worn. I got it to run but doesn't put out the pressure/volume. What I am considering doing is to install a small 12v pump similar to an oil scavange pump. Amarine sells a bronze and brass unit for $70 bucks. It seems to me by doing this the oil will deliver to the main tank at a faster flow rate . I like the idea of being able to service the unit without messing around with the tank, hold downs etc. The plumbing of it would remain pretty much the same. I would add an inline fuse for this pump. As with the rest of the oil delivery system, as long as all of the sensors work so should the pump.
Comments are welcome. Has anyone done this to their boat? Would love to hear.
Thanks in advance,

Capt1947

 

[seasick]

I have have been working on my oil transfer pump/remote tank on my 95 223 with a 200 yami,two cycle.

The existing pump mounted on the remote oil tank appears to be too worn. I got it to run but doesn't put out the pressure/volume. What I am considering doing is to install a small 12v pump similar to an oil scavange pump. Amarine sells a bronze and brass unit for $70 bucks. It seems to me by doing this the oil will deliver to the main tank at a faster flow rate . I like the idea of being able to service the unit without messing around with the tank, hold downs etc. The plumbing of it would remain pretty much the same. I would add an inline fuse for this pump. As with the rest of the oil delivery system, as long as all of the sensors work so should the pump.
Comments are welcome. Has anyone done this to their boat? Would love to hear.
Thanks in advance,

Capt1947

What are you going to do with the current plumbing since you don't want to mess with the hold down etc? If the original pump is still inline and it or the filter is restricted, an additional pump is not going to help.
So before you go ahead, pull the tank. drain it, clean it, check the lines and the filter and then decide what to do.

 

[capt1947]

Hey Seasick,
Thanks for your reply. I have done all of the things you have mentioned relative to clean lines, sensor tests, etc. I took the 12v motor apart. very well built, and found that the stationary magnets lost their adhesion to the motor housing. I corrected that and the motor runs nicely. The volume output is low; so low that it won't pump oil with a 24" lifting head. It appears that the brass pump gears are worn. If I could buy just the gears, I would. Hence , a new pump is required. The scavenge pump has more balls than the little compact pump so as long as I have space, it works for me.
Regarding the plumbing, I will keep the inline strainer at the base of the remote tank. I will utilize new oil lines as necessary and install an inline fuse for the pump. I will maintain the sensor system throughout. Also, by reversing the wiring, I can, if I wish, empty the main tank and lines for any maintenance issues . I think the oem motor for the remote tank is about $ 150-160.
I am somewhat of a gearhead but always looking for a smarter, more efficient and cost effective method.
Thanks for your input. I do appreciate your interest.
capt1947

 

[seasick]

Hey Seasick,
Thanks for your reply. I have done all of the things you have mentioned relative to clean lines, sensor tests, etc. I took the 12v motor apart. very well built, and found that the stationary magnets lost their adhesion to the motor housing. I corrected that and the motor runs nicely. The volume output is low; so low that it won't pump oil with a 24" lifting head. It appears that the brass pump gears are worn. If I could buy just the gears, I would. Hence , a new pump is required. The scavenge pump has more balls than the little compact pump so as long as I have space, it works for me.
Regarding the plumbing, I will keep the inline strainer at the base of the remote tank. I will utilize new oil lines as necessary and install an inline fuse for the pump. I will maintain the sensor system throughout. Also, by reversing the wiring, I can, if I wish, empty the main tank and lines for any maintenance issues . I think the oem motor for the remote tank is about $ 150-160.
I am somewhat of a gearhead but always looking for a smarter, more efficient and cost effective method.
Thanks for your input. I do appreciate your interest.
capt1947

You have done all the diagnostics as well as futzed around with the pump! One thing I would suggest is making sure that the current draw of the new pump is not significantly higher than the OEM. I wouldn't want you to fry the ECU.

Have fun!

 

[DennisG01]

Is there a "delay" between when the float switch in the engine-mounted tank senses "full" to when the ECM commands the pump to stop? I do not know the answer... just thinking outloud. If there is a delay, then you'd want to be careful not to get a new pump that fills the tank significantly faster than the original pump.

 

[seasick]

Is there a "delay" between when the float switch in the engine-mounted tank senses "full" to when the ECM commands the pump to stop? I do not know the answer... just thinking outloud. If there is a delay, then you'd want to be careful not to get a new pump that fills the tank significantly faster than the original pump.

No delay as far as I know.

 

[Aquanut2]

If you haven't all ready remove and clean the remote oil tank. Mine was 26 yrs under the deck and I thought the pump was shot as it didn't work intermittently after replacing the inline filter and having to stop and fill the main tank every 20 mins coming back in from a 40 mile offshore trip it turned out there was a bunch sludge in the tank and the killer was the aluminum burst disks from gallon 2 cycle oil jugs!