Older Grady Electrical Problems

Ramblin Reck

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I have my new to me 1988 Seafarer 228 for only 3 months and finally getting the electrical problems solved. The boat was repowered with a 2003 Evinrude 225 and all of those electrical systems work fine. Lights, pumps, etc which are controlled by the switch panel are where the problems have been. After replacing the toggle switch panel with a weather deck 8 switch panel it did not seem to be much improved although it did in some small ways. I put a tag on each wire when I cut it loose. The wire harness was the main culprit in that the Big Black Wire had partially disconnected within this connection. Cut it on both sides and Butt Spliced it back and things work much better now. Nav lights on Bow, windshield wiper, cockpit lights, bilge pumps now work!

I am a little confused by the AGC glass fuse panels and what looks like a Negative Buss Bar all grouped together. Does anyone know if the common ground attached to what looks like a Buss Bar but may be connected to the fuses and to the switch panel because the Big Black wire is connected there and it also has positive feed on the opposite side of the fuse panel? I am wondering if I should just replace this glass fuse block panel as the fuse holders are corroded but still hold the fuses. Any suggestions on cleaning the fuse holders rather than replace??? Use a Dremel tool maybe?
 

Ramblin Reck

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Thank you for you answer. I took many pictures but could not determine this fact which you have pointed out that they are on the same panel but not connected. I think there are only 2 screws holding this glass fuse panel and negative buss bar onto the piece of plywood behind the steering wheel(helm?). And you are correct about Blue Seas, who made my switch panel and I think I know which blade type panel to get. What confused me is that the Weather Deck Switch panel made by Blue Seas has 8 Blade type fuses in it. So why do I need more? I think the answer partially lies in the fact that some appliances, cabin lights would be directly wired to the positive side and would not require a switch to control it. If the main battery switch is turned on, the when you turn on the cabin lights, then they come on without having to turn on an extra switch! I think I am beginning to understand this wiring scheme. I have gotten many things to work so far, with the help of a friend and if I get the masthead stern light and all around light working I will award myself a BEE degree. LOL
 

Ramblin Reck

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I read your review at Amazon and think that what you suggested does make a lot of sense. This block is very similar to what came on the 1988 Grady White to begin with. Wouldn't the Blue Seas version make more sense since it uses the Blade type fuses rather than Glass fuses? $14 more but maybe worth it. Just saying
 

SkunkBoat

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Ditch the glass, get blades. Join the 21st century.

I don't like that mod of moving the Positive bus. Now you have an uninsulated POS bus next to and uninsulated Neg bus. Good chance of getting a screwdriver or screw or terminal across that.

They made it that way so you can safely add or remove a terminal from the center row by removing the fuse first.
 
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DennisG01

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Ramblin, in reading through your post it sounds like you 'may' have some circuits protected by two fuses? You want to eliminate that. One fuse/breaker per circuit.

And, I'll second (or is it third or fourth?) the notion of just getting a new fuse block. They are inexpensive and you will EASILY spend too much time trying to clean the old one up. Fixing things is good - but sometimes it just makes more sense to get a new one.

There's lot's of choices out there and it primarily comes down to personal preference. This was my 'preference' ;) https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...ocphy=9006985&hvtargid=pla-383472770805&psc=1
 
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