Original Tank?.... and what’s with the bilge draining?

[Ky Grady]

got it. i think i prefer a belt and suspender approach given the downside. my asvs are accessible from the inspection hatch if they get stuck. if yours is not you could maybe get an inline one and position it right under the hatch for each access.

My biggest issue is the ASV seizing into the fuel pickup elbow due to corrosion. I've twisted them off before leaving the threads in the elbow. Not fun trying to use easy outs to remove the threads.

 

[seasick]

I have read some motor manufacturers specs that recommend not to use an anti-siphon valve since they can reduce the performance of some lift pumps and the like. That said, for an inboard motor such a valve is a must (in my opinion), not so much for am outboard motor. The idea of running the fuel line higher than the tank works in theory as long as no part of the fuel delivery system is lower than any level in the tank. That includes the in and out ports of any filters/separators as well as hoses that connect the tank to the filter plumbing and eventual engine feed.

 

[Fishtales]

I'm with Dennis, that looks to be your original tank. If you are removing your tank, be prepared to do a little fiberglass removal. Grady gives us a nice big removable cover to see out tanks, but the hole it sits in is not big enough to lift tank out of, have to trim the lip the hatch sits on.
I just got done removing my auxiliary tank due to it leaking around the fuel sender and pickup tube. Corrosion has eat up the flange for the sender so I'm ordering a new tank right after Christmas. The 2004 version of tank hold downs are poly wedges screwed in at angle and sitting on two rubber strips.View attachment 5934View attachment 5935

Interesting. I've never seen the poly hold downs. Will have to check in the spring. I agree that is the original tank and the way GW mounted it from the factory. Kinda crappy if you ask me. I'm surprised by the corrosion location. Too bad that is what took out the tank.

 

[Ky Grady]

Interesting. I've never seen the poly hold downs. Will have to check in the spring. I agree that is the original tank and the way GW mounted it from the factory. Kinda crappy if you ask me. I'm surprised by the corrosion location. Too bad that is what took out the tank.

Here's one of the poly hold downs. You can see the angle of the screws that go into the sidewall. Like them better than the old way with 2x crossing over the top.

 

[Fishtales]

Totally agree. Much superior way and material.

 

[DennisG01]

Definitely like that better than wood. To be honest, I always wondered if one of the reasons for the 2x4 was for structural rigidity of the opposing stringers - to keep them from slightly collapsing towards each other. But I suppose the floor takes care of that job, along with the other bulkheads.

Another idea, instead of that poly block (and easier/cheaper for us DIYers)... PVC or fiberglass angle/L-channel.

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to first lay down a heavy bead of 5200 on the top of the tank. Then, after it dries, install the poly block or L-channel tight to the 5200. That would help to keep that "air gap" there.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

First time owner and first post! Just purchased a 1996 Adventure 208 in need of TLC. So, first order of business, I removed the fuel sender unit and removed 25 gallons of 3 year old fuel. First 5 gallons was pretty milky; I’m not planning on attempting to use any of the 25 gallons. Wow, expensive to get rid of it!
First question: does this look like the original tank? Please see photo; the 2x4’s securing the tank are toe-screwed into the fiberglass bulkheads running fore-aft. Pretty ugly workmanship, which makes me think this is a replacement tank? That would be a pleasant surprise!
Second question: I removed water tank to see why there was water in the bilge below the fuel tank and not draining aft. Unfortunately, there’s a “shelf” below the water tank and I cannot access / assess how bilge drains to the rear bilge. Any thoughts? I used a wet/dry vac and got as much bilge water out as possible. Now that we’re back to freezing temps, I have a 1” skating rink in the bilge. Should I be concerned?View attachment 5933
Many thanks; from what I’ve read so far, this site/ forum is a wealth of info and experience. Happy Thanksgiving! CT

I am about to open up my floorboard on my 1996 208 in the next few weeks and can post pics. I am planning on installing a freshwater tank - can you confirm that is your freshwater tank aft of the gas tank? Any way you can post a few pics of the water tank and connections. Many thanks.

 

[Freeport Adventure]

OK imjus, here’s photo showing fresh water tank location behind fuel tank. As for connections, there is the large fill tube (1-1/2”?), a connection for the shower hose and I believe a small vent. I’ll confirm with another shot of the tank; it’s in my shop. CT

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Terrific, if not no worries, with oem watertank should be easy to plumb sonce connections are already on tank.