overhead electronics box

[bac0701]

just curious before I start chopping up some starboard. Im about to put my VHF and 7'' FF overhead in my electronics box. Im flush mounting them on starboard I planned on initially putting them within the box door.. made a template and realized the starboard i had was like 2'' short in length. Then I realized why did i even bother ill remove the door and just make it out of starboard and mount it there. Maybe add some stainless hardware or some sort of backing plate to help with the little bit of weight. Id rather do it this route as well so I can still open the door and access any wires or fuse panel easier. Just want to see if any of you guys have them on the door panel and if there is any issues with weight. I have 1/4'' starboard.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I know I'm not answering your question but I'm very interested to see what you do.
I have thought about flush mounting mine too. Seems to be the thing to do now...

I have a VHF and 9" garmin mounted inside the stbd side and an old Raymarine LCD Radar and old VHF in the port side.

It is my experience however that I hate the GPS/FF up there. PAIN IN THE NECK. Literally. VHFs are great up there...you don't need to look at them or push many buttons.
The radar is really a pain but I rarely use it.
There is a fuse panel and NMEA2k and a terminal block for NMEA0813 up there too

I have another GPS/FF in the lower box and I can't bring myself to close up that cubby...I need a place for my bag of Doritos.

Also, when I use the GPS/FF menus I put my fingers behind the unit and press the buttons with my thumb.
I think it will be harder to use the unit if flush mounted.
Did I mention I'm old....? I can't imagine using a touch screen...

 

[bac0701]

I’ve got two 9” Lowrances closed up at the helm and my vhf and radio up top. Plan is to add the 7” I have laying around up top And flush mount it with the Lowrance link vhf Port side. Just use it as a stand alone ff. Then on the starboard side get around to installing my other vhf.

 

[Mr.crab]

Flush mounted mine with 1/4 board have pic,

 

[Keeldad]

I flush mounted the 7” MFD and VHF last year. Very pleased with how it came out. I’d like to do the same with the 2 9” units in my electronics box but that wouldn’t allow access to the box latches. I suppose I could latch it up and then put the pre flush mounted faceplate on but I have a problem. In heavy seas, the box latches have a tendency to shake loose, Has anybody else had this problem and if so, how did you remedy it? Thanks

 

[Fishtales]

both of the above pics look good. I can see keeping the door as it hides the equipment well. Flush mount on the door works too...

 

[bac0701]

Been getting a little bit done here and there. As you can see there’s a mess of wires up there and not enough spots on the fuse panel for what I need. Had a blue sea panel from a previous project laying around that I never used so i used that. Used some scrap starboard and a piece of lexan and improvised to mount it bc it’s just glass up there. Started heat shrinking ends up there looking better and have the plastic cover to label everything.

 

[bac0701]

Can't wait once I'm done wiring this stuff ill be removing the old B744 and fitting a B-75M chirp transducer for a much better view down under

 

[Lite Tackle]

Can't wait once I'm done wiring this stuff ill be removing the old B744 and fitting a B-75M chirp transducer for a much better view down under

I installed a B-75H transducer a couple months ago and am very happy. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[bac0701]

I installed a B-75H transducer a couple months ago and am very happy. Let me know if you have any questions.

for sure... figured id start by using a heat gun to soften it with some steady pressure. I plan on using 4200 for the new one. Just curious when you cut.. Id imagine its cored down there did you bevel it out and fill it with epoxy ? just for safe measure i had that i my head

 

[Lite Tackle]

for sure... figured id start by using a heat gun to soften it with some steady pressure. I plan on using 4200 for the new one. Just curious when you cut.. Id imagine its cored down there did you bevel it out and fill it with epoxy ? just for safe measure i had that i my head

Let use pm or start new thread out of respect.

 

[SkunkBoat]

HEY NOW...don't leave us in the dark...

Its my understanding that the 265 (and all big Gradys) hull bottom is solid glass, only sides are cored. Am I wrong?

 

[Mr.crab]

Hey SkunkBoat my Marlin is solid.

 

[Fowl Hooked]

I redid the overhead panel a couple years ago and have been much happier ever since, 2 VHF radios, remote for the stereo that's mounted down in the cabin, and an 8 position switch panel - only using four now but wanted some growth capability. I retained (actually replaced with new) the detent hinges so I can still open it up to do minor things behind the door, the three large screws along the bottom anchor it into the large piece of starboard that was already there for the door to rest again, controls the vibration and takes the load off the hinges. On the back of the panel are bus bars and a terminal bar so I could keep nearly all the required wiring on the back of the door and only have a couple wires to disconnect if I needed to remove the whole thing. Also used 1/4" and I've not had any problems.

 

[bac0701]

I redid the overhead panel a couple years ago and have been much happier ever since, 2 VHF radios, remote for the stereo that's mounted down in the cabin, and an 8 position switch panel - only using four now but wanted some growth capability. I retained (actually replaced with new) the detent hinges so I can still open it up to do minor things behind the door, the three large screws along the bottom anchor it into the large piece of starboard that was already there for the door to rest again, controls the vibration and takes the load off the hinges. On the back of the panel are bus bars and a terminal bar so I could keep nearly all the required wiring on the back of the door and only have a couple wires to disconnect if I needed to remove the whole thing. Also used 1/4" and I've not had any problems.

looks great exactly what i want to do. Ive got some 0.25 starboard and some 0.5 but its def far to thick. Hopefully I finish this up in a few days with some pics. I finished up pulling the old spreader Hella lights and sealed/mounted two cube style Hella's. Looks awesome but while i was up there I noted a little bit of rot around 2/3 screws going though to the aluminum pipe where the hardtops mounted. Guessing its balsa coored so i may just cut the glass see where I'm at with it and fill with some thickened epoxy if its not terrible. I think it just around the hole.