Overnighter gas tank removal, anyone know the trick?

[Lt.Mike]

For those that may have been wondering... I attempted trimming the lip above the tank for clearance but the best I could achieve without really buggering it up was making the tank almost lift out.
As I had removed the sender, hoses and emptied the tank days earlier I abandoned all thought of ruining more glass, reasoned that it had aired out enough, and took a sawzall to the tank.
Once in two pieces it lifted right out.
Incidentally though the inside of the tank looked brand new the top had a total of 40 holes in it under where the 2x4 supports had been.
Though the bottom had no holes through and through, it wasn't looking too pretty either and would have undoubtedly sprung a leak in the near future.
I spent some time scrubbing out the bilge where the tank had been to find the fiberglass under and around looking very good.
I will take the old tank to the shop this week so that measurements can be taken and a new tank made.
While that is being done I will also recore the hatch.
wish me luck.
Mike.

 

[DennisG01]

Gonna make the new tank about an inch smaller? :wink:

 

[Lt.Mike]

Gonna make the new tank about an inch smaller? :wink:

You betcha!
Paul at Patriot marine actually said they do that anyway, but I'll double check on that.
I'll be spending the extra cash to install a brandy new fuel filter assembly as well.
That gas I transferred to my truck had minute sediment floating in it that wasn't visible to the eye but clogged my filters and fuel pump quite effectively. :bang
I'm having to totally drain the tank and wipe it clean. The inline filter changed, and the fuel pump has to be disassembled to be cleaned as well.
Its a royal pain in the butt. Never again!

 

[Lt.Mike]

Update; Well, the tank is ordered and will be completed early next week. it will be slightly shorter and narrower.
I removed the core material from the hatch cover using a multi tool to cut around the edges and then gently pried the glass from the wood where it didn't readily lift off.
Mine was a patchwork quilt of wood also as it was all 6x6" squares plywood laid in place. Does anyone have a definitive answer as to why they went with individual squares rather than one sheet?
This didn't appear to be scrap wood used but carefully cut squares. Oh and even though I had set the hatch up on end for a week to slowly drain the water it had absorbed the wood was still saturated and oddly smelled of vinegar as if it was fermenting (?). These blocks I gently loosened by tapping a hammer to a spackle knife. I then used the sharp edge of the spackle knife to removed the small amount of wood left. That left it so that only a light sanding would make it ready for re-glassing.
Also a brand new racor 60gph filter assembly (with clear bowl) is in hand to replace the gnarly original OMC filter assembly.
So now everything in the fuel system from the tank to the engine will be new.

 

[DennisG01]

No definitive answer, but I've heard it was to avoid warping?

The entire floor, at least with my boat, was done the same way. I'm using full sheets to replace, though. FYI, I found the "scraper" attachment for an oscillating tool to be very effective in removing the squares that were still adhered to the hatch. I grinder with a flapper wheel will very quick work of removing anything leftover. Just be careful since it will also remove the glass quickly - so use light pressure.

 

[Lt.Mike]

I did try the scraper attachment on the multi tool but it kept digging into the glass.
Doing it by hand proved faster for me and removed 99% of the left over wood.

 

[DennisG01]

Interesting to hear the differences from one boat to another and what works in one case won't always work in another. I was even using a shingle removal tool to jamb in between larger pieces and the underskin. I think there was only one spot where it broke through. To be honest, it surprised me that I wasn't breaking through more, given the extreme thinness of that underskin.

 

[Lt.Mike]

I was I wasn't breaking through more, given the extreme thinness of that underskin.

I did my work with the hatch lying flat on a large heavy picnic table. Gentle hammer taps and watching the angle of blade and I was lucky enough to not have any break through. I'll glass it with it laying flat on the garage floor and weigh the plywood core down with a bunch of marine batteries. (as I've seen here)

 

[DennisG01]

I was I wasn't breaking through more, given the extreme thinness of that underskin.

I did my work with the hatch lying flat on a large heavy picnic table. Gentle hammer taps and watching the angle of blade and I was lucky enough to not have any break through. I'll glass it with it laying flat on the garage floor and weigh the plywood core down with a bunch of marine batteries. (as I've seen here)

Sorry - I was going off on a tangent. When I referred to the "underskin" I meant the actual cockpit floor. The hatch was easy.

 

[qdiver]

Hey Mike, good post on here about your fuel system/tank problems. I have a 93' Seafarer that my fuel gauge is showing on the positive side. When I fuel her up all the way my gauge only shows a bit past 3/4 full. Anyway's that's how I found your thread, good job the video was great I'm going to buy one of those at Home D.

Anyways, I don't want to steal your thread on my Issue but was wondering how it came out, did you install the new tank yet?

Mine has just the main 93 gallon tank and I believe it's in good shape but towards the aft were a second 56 gallon tank would be (an option not on this boat but not installed) the prior owner installed a small hatch to be able to store things underneath witch is a good Idea but that whole rear secondary tank cover has gotten soft and I will have to get it off and re-core it also. So looking at a very similar project ahead for me. Just gathering information on what could be effecting my gauge being off like it is, I'm betting the sender.
Thanks,
Miguel

 

[Lt.Mike]

Just a quick update... everything has worked out great! raise
I did a lot of work and delayed using the boat well into the season while I took the time to do it right.
The hatch is like a rock. The tank being 60 gal. holds enough fuel for about 4 trips out.
I re-did the teak and a lot of other little things to.
The 225 Suzuki pushes this little boat as fast or faster than a lot of boats with twins. My cruising speed is at most others top end.
I don't wind it out a lot but when I do, ya well... it is fun. :wink: (50mph)
The interdeck paint was easy to use and the secret is in the prep work. Don't use thinner, it goes a long way when spread with a foam roller.
Heres a shot of where I started and of the finished deck.

Now I am giving thought to what I want to do over the winter to make it even better.
A wash down kit is definitely in order and I think I'll treat it to a new set of decals.
Thanks to all here that contributed how-to's either directly or by general post. I don't think it would have come out as nice or if I would have even taken it on at all without the help here. I also have to give a plug to Patriot Marine for an excellent custom tank at the best price I could find.
Miguel I wouldn't sweat the gauge being off a bit on the full side. You might check the wiring first eliminating all corrosion and making sure there is a solid ground. That may be the issue. Given the choice between poly and the three times the price epoxy resin, go with the epoxy. Its well worth the expense. One other tip I may share is swapping the standard scuppers to a ball scupper. heres a link...
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/t-h-marin ... r--1930353
With a full tank and five people on the back deck we had the fluke we caught swimming in the 2-3" of water that came in as we drifted.
Swapping to the ball scuppers and that is no longer a problem. It was kind of funny watching the fluke swim back and forth though. :lol:

 

[qdiver]

Hey LT,
Thanks for the tip, yes I checked the wiring at the pick-up end and gauge end cut a piece off on both and reinstalled but still off.
I'm not going to sweat it for now, when it cools down and I stay in more I will pull the hatch re-core it and replace the sender.

That deck came out sweet!! good job :goodjob

I like the sculptures Idea I seldom get sea water backing up on mine but I also usually just go out with a max of 3 onboard. Let me know how it turns out, I think it's a great Idea.

Next I'm looking to add a bow pulpit to mine, it's a pain to drag that anchor in & out of the hanging hatch locker and that way I figure I can keep my spare in there instead of where it is now in the fish locker.

Keep us posted.
Miguel

 

[jbrinch88]

That floor came out great. Im a big fan of the two-tone when done properly. Is there some type of non-skid in there as well I'm assuming? The lines look very clean, what did you use 1/2" or 3/4" tape? What about the radius's, did you use a razor. Really Great Job.

 

[Lt.Mike]

That floor came out great. Im a big fan of the two-tone when done properly. Is there some type of non-skid in there as well I'm assuming? The lines look very clean, what did you use 1/2" or 3/4" tape? What about the radius's, did you use a razor. Really Great Job.

Thanks, like its been said its not the paint work but the prep work that makes the best results. The diamond non-skid of the deck made me question if just sanding would get into the minute grooves so I went over the area of the deck with a drill spinning a fine wire brush cross crossing as I went. I was careful not to scuff the areas that wouldn't be painted. I carefully removed all the silicone sealant from the seams, all of it on the deck. I then wiped the deck down with acetone removing dirt and any oil that may reject the paint. I painted a couple of inches in from the edges of the deck hatch with interlux topside paint which gave a 2" gloss ring around the hatch seal. That replaced the worn out gelcoat there. Next came the blue painters tape. There was enough of the diamond pattern left in the deck and I used that as a reference as yes I followed it with a razor. Masking it off took hours but it makes the difference when its done.
The interdeck paint is one part with a non skid mixed in. I applied it as it came, no thinning with a 3" foam roller. One pint goes a really long way. I applied two coats and have paint left over.
THe non skid finish works great and is kind to bare feet. The deck only gets slick with fish slime so I have a washdown kit on my to-do list.
Funny thing, when we were out the first time I thought my passengers water shoes were putting black scuffs all over the deck but then I realized it was the deck that was scuffing the shoes and the black was shoes rubber that rinsed off easily.
One other thing, when they say take two to three days before walking on it... take four days! Play it safe. I rushed the front hatch giving it one day before use and put toe prints in it that had to be repaired. :roll: Oh ya, the front hatch used a pin type lift that wallowed out its hole so I installed a simple plastic lift that you hook your finger into. Installing new inspection ports cleaned up its look to.
I'm still picking away at the small things that make the boat look its age, kind of turning back the clock.
Good luck with your projects. Mike