Actually after looking at your schematic it looks like I didn't have a couple of parts. The piece between 6 & 7 was not on when I originally took it apart and I don't seem to have a number 7 in my kit.I have felt your pain. Not great design for easy worry-free installation.
Those metal cups and o-rings suck.
Combine that with OX66s not reliably running on ear muffs and needing a Yamaha Hot Tub in order to test it..
The kit doesn't include the parts with the red arrow...some plastic sleave and metal springy shims
and the plastic housing can crack or warp.
View attachment 26738
There was a time when outboard pump was a gasket,base,impellor, and key and the housing was metal and didn't get replaced. Then they decided to "save money".
That was me that had the rubber bushing missing. We have two people here with over heat problems.I have head of anodes blocking flow in other motors. But first let's back up a bit.
Did the motor overheat before you replaced the pump?.
If that rubber bushing was missing from the pump housing (not the top most bushing) that you wouldn't pump enough water volume.
I have the same “new style” housing as you without the rubber seal. I don’t think that would cause just one cylinder to over heat and not the other. But it might! Who knows at this point! Haha. I’ll pull the other anode this week and check it out.That was me that had the rubber bushing missing. We have two people here with over heat problems.
Regarding the above post, was this overheat on the muffs?Well I replaced the thermostats and the poppet valve and I'm still overheating at low speed.
No I never run it on muffs. It was in the ocean. All is good now, I ended up using my 2 year old impeller housing with the old style bushing. The new style allows water at low speed to leak past the pickup tube.Regarding the above post, was this overheat on the muffs?
It would have helped the suggestions to know.