I have a 2000 Tournament 225 with a 2000 OX66 225. I had it out last weekend and I switched the selector to both batteries and started it up. I usually switch to battery 1 for awhile and then to 2 to run on each battery individually. This time I left it on both for some reason and after awhile I noticed the battery voltage guage flashing 11.8V. I switched to Battery 2 only and after awhile it charged to 12.2 and stopped flashing. I switched to Battery 1 and it flashed 11.8 and after awhile it charged to 12.2 and stopped flashing. Is this normal behavior? Will an OX66 not charge both batteries?
OX66 Charging both Batteries?
- Thread starter Grady_Crazy
- Start date
None of those voltages sounds correct. You should see anywhere from 13.4 or so to 14.4 or so while at speed.Grady_Crazy said:
A battery that reads 12.2 at rest (no motor running) is basically fairly discharged. 11.8 is pretty much dead.
I hope that when you switch batteries, you olny pass through the BOTH setting and not the OFF setting when the motor is running. Switching through OFF while running may damage the rectifier.
All that aside, you need to check your batteries either with a digital voltmeter or better yet a load tester. Many of the auto stores like AutoZone will load test your batteries but of course you have to lug them there.
If the batteries look OK but you see 11.8 volts on the meter, you may have a bad connection somewhere, perhaps a corroded cable or connector.
One question: When the one battery flashed and indicated 11.8 volts, did you try to start the motor and if so did it seem to crank over normally?
Both batteries are new, installed in June. I have not put a meter on the batteries either. When I stopped after they read 12.2 and visited friends, I stopped at a friend's dock to be safe, it turned over normally. The voltage was the display on the Yamaha digital gauge.
Parthery, I noticed you had something similar, any ideas?
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... uge.html#b
Parthery, I noticed you had something similar, any ideas?
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... uge.html#b
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Are you reading the voltage from the Yamaha multifunction gauge?
I have always found them to be inaccurate. In my case I have the voltmeter in the HDS turned on. The tach can show low voltage but the HDS shows a higher number.
I agree - find another voltmeter and check your voltage that way.
Also - I never turn the battery switch with the motor running. If you somehow mess up and go through OFF you will blow the rectifier. Shut the motor off, switch the switch, then fire it back up.
I have always found them to be inaccurate. In my case I have the voltmeter in the HDS turned on. The tach can show low voltage but the HDS shows a higher number.
I agree - find another voltmeter and check your voltage that way.
Also - I never turn the battery switch with the motor running. If you somehow mess up and go through OFF you will blow the rectifier. Shut the motor off, switch the switch, then fire it back up.
Grady_Crazy said:
Assuming the batteries are good and are charged, then either the Yami meter is way off or there is a significant voltage drop somewhere. If it is a voltage drop you might be able to be sure by either adding loads or removing loads. For example, measure with all electronics on and then with them off. Try nav lights too.
Regardless of what the meter reads, the number with the ignition on but the motor not started should change by 2 volts or there about when the motor is strayed and reved to 1500 or so. If the reading doesn't change but over time the motor still starts normally, either the meter is bad or it has a bad connection. A bad ground at the meter/panel is a possibility.
Noe that many newer marine electronics not only have the capability to display voltage but will rest when the voltage is too low. At 11.8 volts, I would expect a reset/shutdown.
A digital volt meter will greatly help isolate the cause.
How are the charging leads hooked up? Direct to the battery or through the switch? If it's through the switch, you could have a flaky battery switch.
100% agree, though, first thing is to check the voltage at the batteries with and without the engine running - both at idle and a slightly elevated RPM to see if you're getting the proper charging from the motor. While you're at it, check all of the battery connections (and battery switch) for 'clean and tight'.
100% agree, though, first thing is to check the voltage at the batteries with and without the engine running - both at idle and a slightly elevated RPM to see if you're getting the proper charging from the motor. While you're at it, check all of the battery connections (and battery switch) for 'clean and tight'.
I did not shut off the engine with the voltage reading 11.8 on the multifunction gauge, I was afraid it might not turn over. I took this as a sign that I needed to go visit Tom and tie up to his dock and have a cool drink. We visited for an hour or so and the engine turned over normally and fired right up on 1 battery. When I switched from both to 1 it charged up after a few miles to 12.2. Same for battery 2. This weekend I plan to do some testing and check the voltage with my trusty Fluke meter.
I have not checked the wiring and I don't know how it is wired. I just picked up this 225 in July but I will check.
I have not checked the wiring and I don't know how it is wired. I just picked up this 225 in July but I will check.
If your batteries are new I would check all of the connections for tightness and corrosion. Also, I would rule out the possibility that somebody sold you old batteries. The selector switch usually isn't the problem, although the connections need to be clean and tight.
Incidentally, you can pull start those motors if your battery is dead. I've done it on a few occasions.
Incidentally, you can pull start those motors if your battery is dead. I've done it on a few occasions.
Harpoon said:
Usually, no. But I've come across a few over the years where the internal switching mechanism broke and was "on again, off again", so to speak. "IF" the charger leads are wired through the switch, it's at least a possible problem point.
I know it has been awhile but the problem with the engine was a bad voltage regulator. It was not charging the batteries at all.
Well, not the voltage regulator.
First let me say I am a computer tech not an outboard tech. My engine was not charging the batteries and I took it to my shop for service, told them the batteries were not charging and the idle rpm was too low. They replaced the voltage regulator and said all good.
It was not good and I did some research and the stator was putting out good AC voltage, 30-40 volts AC at 2000 rpm. I looked at thehulltruth.com and read where someone had the auxiliary charging wire hooked to ground. So was mine. If I can find it why can't an outboard tech find it? Evidently the charging voltage was never checked when it was in the shop.
Now that my batteries are charging, where do I connect this wire? I have a Guest switch with 2 batteries and tomorrow a call to the shop to ask for a refund of a regulator and labor.
First let me say I am a computer tech not an outboard tech. My engine was not charging the batteries and I took it to my shop for service, told them the batteries were not charging and the idle rpm was too low. They replaced the voltage regulator and said all good.
It was not good and I did some research and the stator was putting out good AC voltage, 30-40 volts AC at 2000 rpm. I looked at thehulltruth.com and read where someone had the auxiliary charging wire hooked to ground. So was mine. If I can find it why can't an outboard tech find it? Evidently the charging voltage was never checked when it was in the shop.
Now that my batteries are charging, where do I connect this wire? I have a Guest switch with 2 batteries and tomorrow a call to the shop to ask for a refund of a regulator and labor.
