Went offshore yesterday and everything was fine until we got to the dock. Port engine would not shift in reverse. The shifter was really hard to move on left. Other than that, both engines run fine. Anyone have any suggestions?
OX66 Shifting Problem (need some help)
- Thread starter grady33
- Start date
Probably a bad/broken cable. You can remove the cowling and see if the shift linkage is moving when the shift lever is moved.
The linkage at the motor may have come loose or the retainer fitting has broken
The linkage at the motor may have come loose or the retainer fitting has broken
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
To determine if the problem is binacle/shift cables, shift tube (which connects to the spline on the lower unit), or the gearcase itself, do this. Pull the clevis pin and lift off the shift cable linkage (in the engine pan). Now see if it shifts normally. If it does, the problem is probably the shift tube binding. Right below where the tube connects to the shift cable, there should be a grease fitting. Is it dry? That one is easily overlooked when performing annual maintenance.
If after greasing the fitting, it is stiff (and you have already determined the shifter and cables are ok, when disconnected), then you;ll need to drop the lower unit, and place it in a stand. With the lower unit in the stand, and a small pair of vice grips clamped around the shift spline, with a rag, to keep from marring it, turn the prop slowly, move the pliers, and see how it shifts. It should shift very easy. If it's still hard to shift (unlikely), the problem is in the gearcase.
If after greasing the fitting, it is stiff (and you have already determined the shifter and cables are ok, when disconnected), then you;ll need to drop the lower unit, and place it in a stand. With the lower unit in the stand, and a small pair of vice grips clamped around the shift spline, with a rag, to keep from marring it, turn the prop slowly, move the pliers, and see how it shifts. It should shift very easy. If it's still hard to shift (unlikely), the problem is in the gearcase.
Capt. Bill - Thanks so much for the suggestions. I don't believe I've greased that fitting so I'm hoping that will do the trick. Will follow up once I've done step 1 & 2. Thanks again, David
Disconnect the cable and it moves fine. I greased the fitting and reconnected and it was difficult to move forward and backward. There is a groove that this round part moves in and the round piece may be warn out. It was way too hot today for me to take apart, but I'm wondering if it could be this part. Has anyone else had that round price wear out?
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
David, when the shift cable is moved into forward or reverse (have someone slowly turn the prop with a deck brush as you shift), there really should not be enough force on the linkage to wear it out, unless there is another problem. I think the long tube that connects the linkage to the spline on the gear case, may still be binding.
Maybe someone on here has more experience, but I think you;re going to have to drop the lower unit. Not a hard job, but always better to have some help. You can make a simple stand out of 4 pieces of 2x8 or 2x10, cut to about 16" length. Place two of them in parallel, about an inch apart, and nail one across each end of the pair, to form a stand. The lower unit will set there with the skeg in the space between the 2 parallel boards.
You can haul the boat, and do that right in the parking lot. Make sure you get both of the "hidden" bolts that are found under the trim tab. Yes, there are 2 under there, plus the 3 on each side, and of course the one that holds the tab itself. Torque 'em back up to 340 inch pounds, I think it is. But I can check the book for you, if you don't have one.
Maybe someone on here has more experience, but I think you;re going to have to drop the lower unit. Not a hard job, but always better to have some help. You can make a simple stand out of 4 pieces of 2x8 or 2x10, cut to about 16" length. Place two of them in parallel, about an inch apart, and nail one across each end of the pair, to form a stand. The lower unit will set there with the skeg in the space between the 2 parallel boards.
You can haul the boat, and do that right in the parking lot. Make sure you get both of the "hidden" bolts that are found under the trim tab. Yes, there are 2 under there, plus the 3 on each side, and of course the one that holds the tab itself. Torque 'em back up to 340 inch pounds, I think it is. But I can check the book for you, if you don't have one.
grady28 said:
You originally stated that getting into reverse was difficult. You didn't sat that getting into forward was.
If that is the case and your testing of the shift level reveals that it is "difficult to move forward or backward' then I don't think it is the LU.
It is not uncommon for these cables to become hard to move in one direction only since one motion causes compression of the cable core and the opposite results in tension.
Feel along the shifter cable starting at the motor and working your way back as far as possible paying special attention to points where the cable bends or rubs against something. See if you feel an inconsistency in the cable sheathing or if the cable seems to be stiffer at certain sections. That is a sign of internal corrosion. If the outer plastic coating is cut or nicked or worn away, that section will eventually corrode and the core will bind.
Although it is possible to have a shift shaft issue, 99% of these issues turn out to be bad cables. If the cable hasn't been changed in a while, it probably is time to do so.
Dave, kind of ironic, I (brother and myself) had the same problem 2 years ago with a Suzuki DF 140 on my '72 20 Robalo. Same symptoms. Ended up pulling it out and trailering it to the Suzuki people and the shift rod had tons of corrosion on the rod which limited the shifting experience. I am assuming that it probably is the same thing. The other posts are right, have to pull it out and take off the lower unit. I also have a '98 272 Sailfish with the OX225 on a lift in Ocean Pines. We just bought the boat after donating our '25 Trophy Pro last year and had fished that boat for 12 years out of OP. Who do you recommend to service the Yamahas in Ocean City? Just curious. Good luck. Steve
Thanks for the advise. i have someone coming to take a look at it and will post results. Steveg - I use Mark @ OC Outboard (302-541-8274) as he can service the boat while in the water. Where is your boat located? I'm near the Swim and Racq club.
David, we are in Teal Bay area on one of the canals. Just a quick question, how much fuel to run off to the canyons, troll all day and run back? I am just wondering how bad it will be. Steve
we burned about 100-105 gallons last Friday. From Ocean Pines to Hot Dog. Chunked for an hour and then picked up and ran to Poormans and trolled around for 4 hours trolling back to Sausages and then to Hambone and Chicken Bone and then ran home buying roughly 18-21 gallons per hour. We use the premium oil so that's another 80 bucks as we burn about 2.5 gallons.
Dave at 18-21 gal/hr what RPM & speed are you getting? Please keep us posted with develpments on your shifting problems. I grease that fitting under the cowl all the time. Doesn't seem like the grease is going anywhere other than making a mess under the cowl.
Hard to say as it depends on the seas, wave action etc. We usually try and cruise around 25+ knots. In bay, much faster when smooth.
Dave, very good news on the 105 gallons out and back. I had a 25 Trophy Pro with 175 Fichts on it an used the same amount of fuel for an offshore run, canyons. You can get the Yamaha oil (Hudson Marine) on Kent Island, right past Safeway for $25 per gallon pumped into your own container. Do you use ring free, I was advised to use it with every fill up. Good luck and let us know what the verdict is on your repair. Steve
Steveg - always use ring free and non ethanol fuel. Bad news - we decided to head offshore this morning. Got about 24 mles out and noticed some clicking sound in the port side lower unit..the same one I've had problems shifting. Sound got louder and louder so we turned around. Decided to have boat hauled at sunset and called Grady dealer. They advised us to drain lower unit oil and see how it looks. Well we did and sure enough there was metal in the oil. Looks like the joint or something has warn out. Weve had some vibration issues with that engine for past few years but could not figure the problem out. I think we may have found it out. Anyhow, we took the lower unit to the dealer and they are going to check it out. We may just need a new one and I found some on eBay and web for 800-900 bucks. Probably cheaper to replace than get in there and try and cleanit out and purchase new gears. While the boat is hauled, we changed the water pump on the starboard engine and all looks fine. David